P2009 code with a twist

katapaltes

'03 P5, '17 Miata, stock AF
:
Dallas, TX
:
2003 Protege5
I've had a P2009 code for a few months now, and have finally decided to tackle it. I just spent $700 at the dealership for clutch master/slave cylinder and hoses that I should have replaced myself and I don't want to go back to them any time soon. (They wanted to charge a diagnostics fee on top of all that, which I protested and they removed from my bill. On top of all that, it took them several days to do the repair.) :(

I've read all the posts about the VTCS solenoid and I have already swapped it with the identical VICS one and I still get the same P2009 code. I measured resistance and both the VICS and VTCS solenoids were in the 40 - 50 Ohm range, which I understand is acceptable. I followed the vacuum lines from the solenoids to the engine and notice that while the VICS one operates snappily (see video), the VTCS one has a slow, quiet return. I also tried to show in the video that the VTCS "rod" (whatever it's called) deflects slightly to the passenger side when operated by hand. I know I'm testing both from the "wrong end" (not the vacuum side of the rod), but I wonder if the action of the two rods should feel the same. Or maybe I'm barking up the wrong tree. Either way, I hadn't seen this particular aspect discussed so I thought I'd throw it in the pit for discussion. :)

If the video doesn't work, please let me know. The video does have sound if you click on the video itself as opposed to just the play button in the top-right.
[video]https://goo.gl/photos/Fg4J8SmQvrFZDK4w7[/video]
 
Well, I ordered a used solenoid off eBay to replace the VTCS one and the P2009 fault cleared. I went back to check the resistance of both original solenoids, VTCS and VICS, and they were both *dead* - continuity and resistance both showed bad. So no wonder swapping them didn't help with the P2009 code. I don't know how I was able to see good resistance readings two months ago. I may have misread the multimeter.

Both solenoids were completely original, so no surprise they were dead. I wonder why I never got the corresponding code for VICS (P0660 or whatever)? Is it because I never go above 5k RPMs? Also, should I bother replacing the VICS solenoid if it's not throwing a code even though I know it's bad?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
.... I never go above 5k RPMs? ...

It's a good idea to wring it out to redline every once in a while....

It blows crap outta the engine and helps to keep it running smooth and clean.

BUT... If you've NEVER done it, it could be a bad idea.... You might pop something...


(I knew a guy that bought a car off an old lady and broke it it the day he bought it... He revved it up and the piston rings hit the grooves at the top of the cylinders and snapped....)
 
There's a really good chance that you will not pop that code until you go past 5000 RPMS...

You should just spend the 10-15 bucks and get a new one anyway....

Screenshot_2017-07-27-23-20-46.png
 
Thanks, PCB. I'll run the revs up today to see if I trigger the code. I didn't buy a new, cheap one because I wondered about the quality. Since I never go above 5k RPM anyway, I'll get one of these cheap ones for the VICS and we'll see if it lasts as long as / longer than the used, Mitsubishi one. :)

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 
I rev my car up to redline about twice a month... It feels really wrong doing it.
I figure if something is going to break or blow up, it's going to happen at redline.

You're probably OK with the cheaper solenoid valve... It's a pretty simple device. As long as it fits and connects, you should be fine.
 
It is an intermittent monitor which may mean only when above 5000 rpm... And it needs to happen for two consecutive drive cycles.

Screenshot_2017-07-28-13-13-13.png
 
Back