Transmission Problems

Just found out BHN2-46-100D is not the brake switch but the whole shifter assembly which includes lock solenoid and "Not P position" switch. There's slight chance that the replacement shifter assembly is not working perfectly. Again try the shift override and see if there's any difference on hard shifting.

Honestly I believe your dealer did the right thing at first time by checking the brake switch and replacing the whole shifter assembly. If your problem is still there, you may have to escalate the case to Mazda North American Operations for further assistance.

Yeah, I'm not upset with the dealer and their efforts. Just frustrated they can't seem to replicate it as its so obvious to me. And the comment about some resistance being normal just doesn't seem right. I wasn't sure if that part number applied to the whole assembly, but it does appear to be so. I'll give the shift over-ride a try, but I've never done it before. I agree the manual should state how its done.

Overall I am still frustrated with all the little things wrong with my vehicle and my patience is wearing thin. Never experienced anything like this before, let alone on a brand new purchase (yeah, its two years old at this point, but a lot of this stuff has been ongoing since the early days of ownership).
 
⋯ Overall I am still frustrated with all the little things wrong with my vehicle and my patience is wearing thin. Never experienced anything like this before, let alone on a brand new purchase (yeah, its two years old at this point, but a lot of this stuff has been ongoing since the early days of ownership).
I hear you and in fact I understand many forum members simply abandoned the ship and didn't even bother to post any comments here for fear of getting flamed. I noticed there're so few active posters here who owns older CX-5's, which is quite different from other car forums I used to be in. Many active posters here 2、3、4 years ago are no longer here. My conclusion is this's also related to Mazda's industry-low customer retention rate. Many people bought a Mazda and they don't buy the second one, due to various reasons but I believe mostly the quality and reliability issues. They left early from this forum because they got rid of the CX-5 early and wouldn't be posting here anymore!

I fully understand Mazda vehicles are not the most reliable products before I made the decision to get our first Mazda. I also feel Mazda's quality and reliability are hit and miss. Part of reason IMO is they can't have stable suppliers due to they're being small, and they may have to switch suppliers from time to time for cost issue which may introduce a batch of inferior parts eventually causeing problems. So far our 19,229-mile 2016 CX-5 is having minimum issues (knock on wood) but we don't have rust concerns which also affect the rear brakes like yours. And the potential electric parking brake issue discussed in the other thread right now makes me fully aware I eventually need a revised EPB control module at my own expense if I don't get an EPB warning light soon. Those crooked A-pillar trims, misaligned panels, and the big gaps between interior trim pieces, at least they won't affect the functionallity. Also we need to consider the complexity of the modern vehicles. It's hard to make a problem-free automobile nowadays. That's why I'm truely impressed with Toyota who can make the much more complicated hybrid Prius that much reliable!
 
I hear you and in fact I understand many forum members simply abandoned the ship and didn't even bother to post any comments here for fear of getting flamed. I noticed there're so few active posters here who owns older CX-5's, which is quite different from other car forums I used to be in. Many active posters here 2、3、4 years ago are no longer here. My conclusion is this's also related to Mazda's industry-low customer retention rate. Many people bought a Mazda and they don't buy the second one, due to various reasons but I believe mostly the quality and reliability issues. They left early from this forum because they got rid of the CX-5 early and wouldn't be posting here anymore!

I fully understand Mazda vehicles are not the most reliable products before I made the decision to get our first Mazda. I also feel Mazda's quality and reliability are hit and miss. Part of reason IMO is they can't have stable suppliers due to they're being small, and they may have to switch suppliers from time to time for cost issue which may introduce a batch of inferior parts eventually causeing problems. So far our 19,229-mile 2016 CX-5 is having minimum issues (knock on wood) but we don't have rust concerns which also affect the rear brakes like yours. And the potential electric parking brake issue discussed in the other thread right now makes me fully aware I eventually need a revised EPB control module at my own expense if I don't get an EPB warning light soon. Those crooked A-pillar trims, misaligned panels, and the big gaps between interior trim pieces, at least they won't affect the functionallity. Also we need to consider the complexity of the modern vehicles. It's hard to make a problem-free automobile nowadays. That's why I'm truely impressed with Toyota who can make the much more complicated hybrid Prius that much reliable!

I agree. And if my memory serves me correctly we both have Jan 2015 build dates. They probably came off the assembly line at about the same time and most likely share similar vendor sourced parts.
 
I agree. And if my memory serves me correctly we both have Jan 2015 build dates. They probably came off the assembly line at about the same time and most likely share similar vendor sourced parts.
Yes you really have better memory than mine! My 2016 CX-5 has Jan. 2015 build date. The LED headlights are still fine without mildew (yet) but I really don't know if this's a good thing or not?! (knock on wood again!)
 
Yes you really have better memory than mine! My 2016 CX-5 has Jan. 2015 build date. The LED headlights are still fine without mildew (yet) but I really don't know if this's a good thing or not?! (knock on wood again!)

I suppose you could always blast your headlights with a cold hose in the hot sun for several minutes. If you see tons of moisture in there a short time afterwards I'd bet you'd start to see the gasket gasses start the hazing process. When I wash my car now with the replacement headlights I haven't really seen any moisture at all form on the inner lens.
 
I suppose you could always blast your headlights with a cold hose in the hot sun for several minutes. If you see tons of moisture in there a short time afterwards I'd bet you'd start to see the gasket gasses start the hazing process. When I wash my car now with the replacement headlights I haven't really seen any moisture at all form on the inner lens.
Thanks for the tip. I'll try that and see if I can get the mildew going a little faster in my LED headlights. It's sad to say that though ⋯
 
Thanks for the tip. I'll try that and see if I can get the mildew going a little faster in my LED headlights. It's sad to say that though ⋯

That's when I first started noticing problems. I had tons of dead bug parts on my headlights one day and was apprehensive about using bug/tar removal on the plastic lenses. After the wash it looked like a frigging sauna in there.
 
Mine does do this but only after first starting it up.

I can be sitting stationary with my foot on the brake pedal, and if i move the shifter back and forth between P and D or R the resistance shows itself. Bear in mind this is without taking your foot off the brake.
 
I've never had tranny issues on a car.

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How long/many miles do you keep em?

I've owned many new cars and trucks over the years and I've never had any transmission issues, zero. I always use my parking brake (except in our garage), as does my wife, and I change the trans fluid and filters as needed.
 
I can be sitting stationary with my foot on the brake pedal, and if i move the shifter back and forth between P and D or R the resistance shows itself. Bear in mind this is without taking your foot off the brake.

There are detent springs at the bottom of the shifter. Have you tried another similar vehicle?
 
I can be sitting stationary with my foot on the brake pedal, and if i move the shifter back and forth between P and D or R the resistance shows itself. Bear in mind this is without taking your foot off the brake.
There are detent springs at the bottom of the shifter. Have you tried another similar vehicle?
banjos-n-beer did try a new CX-5 and felt similar resistance. If resistance banjos-n-beer has is always from Park to Reverse or Drive, not between Reverse and Drive, I'd believe it's the shift-lock issue. If he feels the resistance between Reverse and Drive, then it has nothing to do with shift-lock mechanism. banjos-n-beer may need to press the lock-release button on the shift stick fully? In any event there's something wrong if he needs to pump the foot brake a couple of times to shift out of the Park.
 
banjos-n-beer did try a new CX-5 and felt similar resistance. If resistance banjos-n-beer has is always from Park to Reverse or Drive, not between Reverse and Drive, I'd believe it's the shift-lock issue. If he feels the resistance between Reverse and Drive, then it has nothing to do with shift-lock mechanism. banjos-n-beer may need to press the lock-release button on the shift stick fully? In any event there's something wrong if he needs to pump the foot brake a couple of times to shift out of the Park.

you car correct sir. it always happens after going into P. just as in the other CX5 I tested out.

haven't had the time to mess with mine yet...
 
same thing happened again this morning.

Yesterday: come home from work, apply EPB, shift into P, release brake pedal, turn off car.

This morning: press brake pedal, start up car, go to shift out of P (with EPB still on), need to pump brake pedal twice before being able to shift without resistance/force.
 
I hear you and in fact I understand many forum members simply abandoned the ship and didn't even bother to post any comments here for fear of getting flamed. I noticed there're so few active posters here who owns older CX-5's, which is quite different from other car forums I used to be in. Many active posters here 2、3、4 years ago are no longer here. My conclusion is this's also related to Mazda's industry-low customer retention rate. Many people bought a Mazda and they don't buy the second one, due to various reasons but I believe mostly the quality and reliability issues. They left early from this forum because they got rid of the CX-5 early and wouldn't be posting here anymore!

I fully understand Mazda vehicles are not the most reliable products before I made the decision to get our first Mazda. I also feel Mazda's quality and reliability are hit and miss. Part of reason IMO is they can't have stable suppliers due to they're being small, and they may have to switch suppliers from time to time for cost issue which may introduce a batch of inferior parts eventually causeing problems. So far our 19,229-mile 2016 CX-5 is having minimum issues (knock on wood) but we don't have rust concerns which also affect the rear brakes like yours. And the potential electric parking brake issue discussed in the other thread right now makes me fully aware I eventually need a revised EPB control module at my own expense if I don't get an EPB warning light soon. Those crooked A-pillar trims, misaligned panels, and the big gaps between interior trim pieces, at least they won't affect the functionallity. Also we need to consider the complexity of the modern vehicles. It's hard to make a problem-free automobile nowadays. That's why I'm truely impressed with Toyota who can make the much more complicated hybrid Prius that much reliable!

I don't agree with your generality. My son is driving a 96 Miata I bought new (21 years ago) that runs great. New plugs, battery, tires and a crank positioning sensor is only part failed. My daughter in law is driving an early 2013 CX-5 I bought new that has had no problems. My daughter is driving a early sky 2012 3 that has had no problems that replaced a 2002 Civic that at ten years fell apart - front ball joints, motor support, brake light and the whole dash would sometimes work but usually all gages including speedometer were dead. Mazda reliability has been good for us, knock on wood.
 
I don't agree with your generality. My son is driving a 96 Miata I bought new (21 years ago) that runs great. New plugs, battery, tires and a crank positioning sensor is only part failed. My daughter in law is driving an early 2013 CX-5 I bought new that has had no problems. My daughter is driving a early sky 2012 3 that has had no problems that replaced a 2002 Civic that at ten years fell apart - front ball joints, motor support, brake light and the whole dash would sometimes work but usually all gages including speedometer were dead. Mazda reliability has been good for us, knock on wood.

yup. our 2005 Mazda 6 never saw a dealer in the 9 years we owned it. my 2016 CX5 has been back over 10 times in two years. I and just got the rear strut recall notice that parts are in... so that'll make at least one more... sigh. I truly feel Mazda is hit or miss... just got unlucky this time.
 
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