Transmission Problems

B

banjos-n-beer

:
2014 QX70 AWD
I'm only posting this because it's the main reason I plan on moving on from my CX5.

Almost 2 out of every 3 cars I've owned over the years has had transmission problems, or symptoms pointing to transmission problems at some point. Mileage has ranged between 50k and 90k when the problems really started getting obvious. (Excluding current CX5). Not sure if it's just my bad luck... but it's always the damn tranny.

Cases in point, not necessarily in chronological order.

1990 Eclipse GSX (manual). Hard to get into multiple gears.

1995 3000 GT base (manual). Hard to shift into 3rd and 4th.

1991/2/3 Honda Accord LX or EX, don't recall. (auto). Rough/jerky shifts and occasionally hard to move between D, R and P.

1992 3000 GT VR4 (manual). Popping out of certain gears. (Mainly 2 & 3).. thus bad syncros

2001 4Runner (auto). Shifter would rock back and forth severely during acceleration. Rear diff rotted out before it got worse.

2016 CX5 (auto). Regularly takes 3 full pumps of the brake pedal to shift smoothly out of park.

This is why I really want a lifetime power train warranty on my next vehicle. Not that I want my trannys replaced, but that peace of mind would be so reassuring.

None of these symptoms were ever present during original test drives. Has anyone else ever experienced such similar flaws over a similar number of vehicles? I know I often have bad luck, but wowsa. Enough is enough.

Edit- cars with okay trannys:

1984 GTI (manual)

1982 Volvo 240 Turbo (manual)

1996 Elantra (manual). Winter beater

2005 Mazda 6 (manual)
 
Last edited:
cx-500 said:
Indicative of parking on an incline, and not using the parking brake before shifting the tranny to park.
Click to expand...

Occurs on flat surfaces, even when using parking brake. Grrrr.

GFs CRV can even rock several inchs without experiencing this. (She never uses parking brake).
 
My life is the same story. Never owned an automatic that I don't have issues. I'll keep the cx5 until it dies, then replace it 3rd party for cheap and motor on.
 
I've never had tranny issues on a car.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 
IMO modern transmissions are a complex mix of software and electronics, not like years ago when the old transmissions were band and fluid servo operated (strictly mechanical in nature). Add to the mix of cramming more gear combinations (6 to 8 speeds versus a 3 speed of years ago). I had an old 1987 Corolla with a 3 speed automatic which I bought at 20k miles. That sucker went to 300k miles and only needed a speed governor at 179k miles, which cost $89 from a local scrap yard. Also had a 1997 Plymouth Voyager with a 3 speed automatic that went 140k with no problems. My daily driving is a bad mix of city, highway, and running up long, steep, hills. So a transmission in my car is going to get put through the paces. I agree about wanting the extra warranty protection. Car companies say "lifetime fluid, no maintenance required", but are usually only on the hook for a 60k mile/5 year run. Hyundai says 10 year/100k mile, but I've yet to hear of some one getting warranty work at 95k miles. I really am surprised at how newer transmissions, all car companies in general, go as long as they do with few problems.
 
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banjos-n-beer said:
I'm only posting this because it's the main reason I plan on moving on from my CX5.

Almost 2 out of every 3 cars I've owned over the years has had transmission problems, or symptoms pointing to transmission problems at some point. Mileage has ranged between 50k and 90k when the problems really started getting obvious. (Excluding current CX5). Not sure if it's just my bad luck... but it's always the damn tranny.

Cases in point, not necessarily in chronological order.

1990 Eclipse GSX (manual). Hard to get into multiple gears.

1995 3000 GT base (manual). Hard to shift into 3rd and 4th.

1991/2/3 Honda Accord LX or EX, don't recall. (auto). Rough/jerky shifts and occasionally hard to move between D, R and P.

1992 3000 GT VR4 (manual). Popping out of certain gears. (Mainly 2 & 3).. thus bad syncros

2001 4Runner (auto). Shifter would rock back and forth severely during acceleration. Rear diff rotted out before it got worse.

2016 CX5 (auto). Regularly takes 3 full pumps of the brake pedal to shift smoothly out of park.

This is why I really want a lifetime power train warranty on my next vehicle. Not that I want my trannys replaced, but that peace of mind would be so reassuring.

None of these symptoms were ever present during original test drives. Has anyone else ever experienced such similar flaws over a similar number of vehicles? I know I often have bad luck, but wowsa. Enough is enough.

Edit- cars with okay trannys:

1984 GTI (manual)

1982 Volvo 240 Turbo (manual)

1996 Elantra (manual). Winter beater

2005 Mazda 6 (manual)
Click to expand...
Not really transmission related. Sounds like something going on between the brake pedal and trans shift linkage. Since you're not supposed to be able to shift out of park without depressing bake pedal, sounds like mechanical linkage is out of adjustment. Might be something really minor.
 
madar said:
Not really transmission related. Sounds like something going on between the brake pedal and trans shift linkage. Since you're not supposed to be able to shift out of park without depressing bake pedal, sounds like mechanical linkage is out of adjustment. Might be something really minor.
Click to expand...

Thx. Dealer has already replaced the brake sensor that tells the tranny it's safe to shift, but it didn't resolve the issue. Now they state all is normal despite my complaints (they claim they're unable to replicate). I also drove another new CX5 around their lot and was able to feel similar resistance. Not sure what else to do at this point. But my faith in long term reliability is pretty low.
 
banjos-n-beer said:
I'm only posting this because it's the main reason I plan on moving on from my CX5..
⋯
2016 CX5 (auto). Regularly takes 3 full pumps of the brake pedal to shift smoothly out of park.
Click to expand...
I believe your issue has nothing to do with tramission itself, but it's the shift-lock mechanism acting up. Usually there's a solenoid or some sort of mechanism activated by your brake-light switch which releases the shifter so that you can shift out of the Park. I haven't had a chance to look at the service manual, but this's something you should suggest your Mazda dealer to look at it next since they'd already replaced the brake light switch. You can try "Shift-Lock Override", see page 4-50 of your owner's manual before you do the first shift out of the Park. If you can shift without pumping brake, it definitely means the Shift-Lock system need to get fixed!

Edit- cars with okay trannys:
1984 GTI (manual)
Click to expand...
Ha, our first new car was a 1985 silver 5-speed manual VW Jetta GLI with manual windows and sunroof. That car lasted about 120K miles without too much issues. The clutch would slip once in a while but the manual transmission was fine without replacing the gear lubricant ever.

The automatic transmission in our 1998 Honda CR-V still works with 178,870 miles. I did do routine ATF drain-and-fill according to Honda's maintenance schedule. That makes me believe we need ATF drain-and-fill to make sure the longevity of the automatic transmission in our CX-5 even though there's no mention of the scheduled maintenance.
 
Yrwei52- this is what my paperwork states:

"Checked shifter lock operation. Shift lock solenoid sticks sometimes. Checked brake lamp switch. Part ordered: BHN2-46-100D"

Follow up appointment notes:

"Shift mechanism is working as designed. Shifter does have some resistance to it which is normal."


Thoughts?
 
The GTI was a fun car. Eventually had a gas leak, dead clutch, and other isssues.

I actually lost the brakes for several months. I Would slow down/stop by downshifting and using the e-brake. Then the brakes magically returned one day. I used to travel back and forth between Maine and Massachusetts late at night to avoid heavy traffic. But there were times when I had to run a red light or pull into the breakdown lane in order to avoid hitting someone.

Good but crazy times.
 
banjos-n-beer said:
Yrwei52- this is what my paperwork states:

"Checked shifter lock operation. Shift lock solenoid sticks sometimes. Checked brake lamp switch. Part ordered: BHN2-46-100D"

Follow up appointment notes:

"Shift mechanism is working as designed. Shifter does have some resistance to it which is normal."


Thoughts?
Click to expand...
So it does have a shift-lock solenoid. In addition to brake switch, there's a "Not P position switch". If the shift-lock solenoid "sticks sometimes" as indicated in the first ticket, you can insist to your dealer that the symptom is still there. If you can consistently duplicate the hard shift to a "friendly" service advisor, he may agree with you that it's not normal and is willing to do further investigation and keep replacing more parts such as shift-lock solenoid and "Not P position" switch. There's a relay involved with shift-lock solenoid which may be faulty too.

Of course if your dealer doesn't care, your next step is to communicate with Mazda North American Operations and create a case.

I'd still try that shift-lock override button according to owner's manual. If you feel there's no resistance with the override shifting out of the Park, I believe you do have problem in one of the parts mentioned above in shift-lock system. Most likely the culprit is the shift-lock solenoid itself.
 
banjos-n-beer said:
The GTI was a fun car. Eventually had a gas leak, dead clutch, and other isssues.

I actually lost the brakes for several months. I Would slow down/stop by downshifting and using the e-brake. Then the brakes magically returned one day. I used to travel back and forth between Maine and Massachusetts late at night to avoid heavy traffic. But there were times when I had to run a red light or pull into the breakdown lane in order to avoid hitting someone.

Good but crazy times.
Click to expand...
Yeah I've done that before driving a car without foot brake. When we're young we tend to do all kind of crazy things with no fear! Luckily we all are survived! :)

We wanted a VW GLI at the time because I fully aware the German made GLI has much better quality and reliability than the GTI from Mexico. Otherwise we would get a GTI like you did!
 
banjos-n-beer said:
I still can't quite figure out what that part number is.... "shift selector"?
Click to expand...
Just found out BHN2-46-100D is not the brake switch but the whole shifter assembly which includes lock solenoid and "Not P position" switch. There's slight chance that the replacement shifter assembly is not working perfectly. Again try the shift override and see if there's any difference on hard shifting.

Honestly I believe your dealer did the right thing at first time by checking the brake switch and replacing the whole shifter assembly. If your problem is still there, you may have to escalate the case to Mazda North American Operations for further assistance.
 
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