Need advice for fixing 2008 Mazda 5 inner front tire wear.

aviphysics

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2008 Mazda 5
I need advice for fixing 2008 Mazda 5 inner front tire wear. Car has about 120,000 miles on it. Front struts are still original.

The ride feels mostly fine, so I feel hesitant to replace the front struts, but that is the first thing the mechanic suggested and I have been told there isn't a camber adjustment. Not sure if there is a better solution.

Also, if I am going to replace the struts, I could use a recommended replacement part. Ride comfort would be the main goal. I drive long distances, and the road vibration bothers my feet.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
The KYB struts have had the most positive word of mouth. Have your suspension guy do your strut mounts too. Mine only lasted 40K mi after the struts were replaced. And have your alignment guy adjust the to closer to zero. It will effect higher speed squirreliness since toe-in or "pigeon toed" tires for reasons I don't know enhance high speed stability. But they also spread outward to more neutral as speed increases, but when toed in, the tires scrub the insides.
 
I was going to do the front shocks myself. Then will go to a pro for the alignment.

Bought a pair of Monroe Quickstruts when it was taking a while to get replies. I had heard that the KYB made for a harsher ride, and thought my wife would like the Monroe better. Also KYB doesn't sell their Strut-Plus for the Mazda, and the Quickstrut is only 10$ more then the KYB Strut + Mount ($130 vs $86 + $36).

Would it be worth returning the Quickstruts and doing the KYB instead? Seems like a lot of work. Also, I already put a pair of OESpectrum in the back on Sunday an replaced the rear mounts. Already a big improvement in the ride, and no more clunking from the back.
 
Nah, do the quick struts. Monroe hasn't been verified to have a shorter lifespan than the KYB, at least not that I remember reading here. The all in ones will save you huge amounts of effort. Just be sure that have the strut mounts already installed. As I said, don't want to leave old ones in there.
 
Did the job yesterday. From the time I parked to the time I put the last tool away was about 4 hours. I think not bad for my first time.

For some reason, the howto's I read didn't mention needing to disconnect the brake lines. Impossible to get the knuckle low enough to get the strut out without doing this. You could maybe do it if you used spring compressors, but it would still be difficult to get the knuckle unseated from the bottom of the strut. I think it is probably better to just disconnect the lines. Also reduces the chance of damaging them while yanking everything around. Alternatively, one could take the caliper off and use a bent coat hanger to suspend it out of the way.
 
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