Just picked up my first Msp, searching for answers for my goals.

Haxir

Member
:
mazdaspeed 3 GT 2008 CWP
So I've had/owned an MS3 since 2008, currently have one that I've built from near stock to dropping in a built motor I built with all bolt ons and all that jazz. But I've always wanted an orange MSP as a second car. As of sunday, I am now an owner of such Orange MSP.

With that being said, the outright goal of this MSP of mine is to be built into a SOLID DD with a little power, but mostly reliable fun second car and if people that come to visit me can borrow. As of right now, its in a bit of a hackjob condition. I need to drop in a new trans that's on its way to me since it currently has a dead trans in it. I will comp test it shortly to get an exact idea of the health of the motor. It has a pos hackjob fmic kit, a T28 turbo (unknown brand), no intake whatsoever, a cracked exhaust mani, a pos welded downpipe that needs replaced. It has a boost gauge and I assume a coolant temp gauge installed. Still have to figure out if its all actually hooked up. But that's about it for the status of the car.

Plans/wants/goals: Like I stated above, I want this car to be a solid DD that will be reliable with some power when I need it. Which means id like to keep the turbo. I plan to just have an intake and a better fmic kit and call it good for performance mods. I guess my biggest question comes to the tuning. As from what I've read and been told, these stock tunes are trash. And the MSP, unlike the MS3 doesn't have the luxury of a device like an accessport. From what I've gathered there is the split sec PSC1, the FTC1, the AEM and I think the haltech. Probably others, but im just trying to figure out the best device from what I want out of it for the least money spent and most effective. What should I go with? And do I need the larger oil pan/ oil doc oil service or whatever or are those things more so for really heavily modded msp's with it being beat on? What else is really needed for life/longevity for my plans. I assume a catch can or two for the VC to intake and the pcv to manifold much like I have on my MS3. I just want it to last and be done right. Any and all help is greatly appreciated. I love this car and want it done justice.
 
So I've had/owned an MS3 since 2008, currently have one that I've built from near stock to dropping in a built motor I built with all bolt ons and all that jazz. But I've always wanted an orange MSP as a second car. As of sunday, I am now an owner of such Orange MSP.

With that being said, the outright goal of this MSP of mine is to be built into a SOLID DD with a little power, but mostly reliable fun second car and if people that come to visit me can borrow. As of right now, its in a bit of a hackjob condition. I need to drop in a new trans that's on its way to me since it currently has a dead trans in it. I will comp test it shortly to get an exact idea of the health of the motor. It has a pos hackjob fmic kit, a T28 turbo (unknown brand), no intake whatsoever, a cracked exhaust mani, a pos welded downpipe that needs replaced. It has a boost gauge and I assume a coolant temp gauge installed. Still have to figure out if its all actually hooked up. But that's about it for the status of the car.

Plans/wants/goals: Like I stated above, I want this car to be a solid DD that will be reliable with some power when I need it. Which means id like to keep the turbo. I plan to just have an intake and a better fmic kit and call it good for performance mods. I guess my biggest question comes to the tuning. As from what I've read and been told, these stock tunes are trash. And the MSP, unlike the MS3 doesn't have the luxury of a device like an accessport. From what I've gathered there is the split sec PSC1, the FTC1, the AEM and I think the haltech. Probably others, but im just trying to figure out the best device from what I want out of it for the least money spent and most effective. What should I go with? And do I need the larger oil pan/ oil doc oil service or whatever or are those things more so for really heavily modded msp's with it being beat on? What else is really needed for life/longevity for my plans. I assume a catch can or two for the VC to intake and the pcv to manifold much like I have on my MS3. I just want it to last and be done right. Any and all help is greatly appreciated. I love this car and want it done justice.
Well you have some MazdaSpeed experience although different engine.
Hers what I have in mind for a reliable build.
Motor mounts
Forged engine
Coated bearings
Doc B oil pump bypass signature products itn'l does them and should have some in-stock.
Engine management.
I have a unichip piggyback, it's much more capable then the split Second but you have to have it tuned at a shop.


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Well you have some MazdaSpeed experience although different engine.
Hers what I have in mind for a reliable build.
Motor mounts
Forged engine
Coated bearings
Doc B oil pump bypass signature products itn'l does them and should have some in-stock.
Engine management.
I have a unichip piggyback, it's much more capable then the split Second but you have to have it tuned at a shop.


Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

I was hoping to not have to forge the motor, at least not for a long time. And I was talking to a tuner earlier today after I made this post, and he said he can tune it and to get the AEM fic and it would be the best option for my goals. Are the upgraded mounts like the MS3 where they cause a s*** ton of vibes or are there some that are still stock feel vibe wise?
 
You will have vibes with stiffer mounts. Same deal. And stock motors don't fare well above about 10psi.

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You will have vibes with stiffer mounts. Same deal. And stock motors don't fare well above about 10psi.

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The protege does not fair well with AEM. Every once and awhile we here one guy try.
They all quit in shame.
You can fill a set of stock mounts with 3m window weld.
If you are going to replace bearings and address the biggest issue with the fs " the oil system" you might as well forge.
If you want to stay stock for awhile. Do your mounts, get a oil pressure gauge, boost gauge and wideband. Get the engine in a tuning solution and don't boost over 10psi. Get a motor cheep and forge it your self over time so you will be prepared.

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Hmmm, discouraging news with the AEM, but hopefully this tuner knows what he's doing and can make it work. He like you guys are saying mentioned 10psi is about the sweet spot, however I'm curious is that 10psi on the stock t25? What would that "sweet spot" be for the t28 that's on it, like 8-9 psi?

I was looking and probably just going stiffer front and back mounts and maybe leaving the 2 sides as stock, maybe add that window weld you mentioned. And thanks for the advice so far, it's very helpful
 
Hmmm, discouraging news with the AEM, but hopefully this tuner knows what he's doing and can make it work. He like you guys are saying mentioned 10psi is about the sweet spot, however I'm curious is that 10psi on the stock t25? What would that "sweet spot" be for the t28 that's on it, like 8-9 psi?

I was looking and probably just going stiffer front and back mounts and maybe leaving the 2 sides as stock, maybe add that window weld you mentioned. And thanks for the advice so far, it's very helpful
Tom Pope of http://www.popeperformance.com
Is a good guy to ask that question. He is well versed in forced induction.
As I understand it, 10psi on a bigger Turbo is the same as a smaller on. Difference is it can flow more air through it making higher psi also spools at a higher rpm.

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Keep in mind the MSP is a COMPLETELY different ball game than the MS3/MS6. You will be fine just fixing up the FMIC setup, fabricating an SRI and running 8psi on the T28 (could maybe get away with 10, depends on how you feel about motor swaps). It will all come down to the condition of the motor. The oil system upgrade and built motor are not necessary if you just want a mildly modded DD. I put 170K+ miles on my stock drivetrain (turbo/trans/engine/axles) until I went forged, about 90k of that was at 10psi.

The MSP only has one FMIC kit that is currently being made, most people do the Ebay route which is likely what is on the car now. Nothing wrong with that setup, you can always buy another piping kit and make a new setup. You also may want to look into the brand of the turbo, if it's a genuine Garrett you are fine, if it's an Ebay or chinacharger I would look into a stock T25 or a real Garrett T28.

The MSP does not have the aftermarket that the other Mazdaspeed models enjoy, you have to be lucky finding used parts on here and facebook or make it yourself.

The car may already have a split second piggyback, if you want to tune it yourself and do it cheaply that is the way to go. I am looking into microsquirt personally, some people have made it work relatively easily but there isn't much information out there about setting it up.

I work for Cobb Tuning and have pleaded about cracking the MSP ecu to tune it but it will likely never happen.
 
Keep in mind the MSP is a COMPLETELY different ball game than the MS3/MS6. You will be fine just fixing up the FMIC setup, fabricating an SRI and running 8psi on the T28 (could maybe get away with 10, depends on how you feel about motor swaps). It will all come down to the condition of the motor. The oil system upgrade and built motor are not necessary if you just want a mildly modded DD. I put 170K+ miles on my stock drivetrain (turbo/trans/engine/axles) until I went forged, about 90k of that was at 10psi.

The MSP only has one FMIC kit that is currently being made, most people do the Ebay route which is likely what is on the car now. Nothing wrong with that setup, you can always buy another piping kit and make a new setup. You also may want to look into the brand of the turbo, if it's a genuine Garrett you are fine, if it's an Ebay or chinacharger I would look into a stock T25 or a real Garrett T28.

The MSP does not have the aftermarket that the other Mazdaspeed models enjoy, you have to be lucky finding used parts on here and facebook or make it yourself.

The car may already have a split second piggyback, if you want to tune it yourself and do it cheaply that is the way to go. I am looking into microsquirt personally, some people have made it work relatively easily but there isn't much information out there about setting it up.

I work for Cobb Tuning and have pleaded about cracking the MSP ecu to tune it but it will likely never happen.


Awesome thanks for the reply my good sir. I have since picked up a larger oil pan, the 1.8 individual coil packs. Still looking for an intake, going to go 626 intake manifold, piece together some fmic pipes, and looking for a Pope downpipe and maybe exhaust mani. Probably tune it with the AEM fic. Man I wish cobb would make an accessport for it!
 
There is not enough demand, it takes a LOT of work and money to develop an AP for a new platform. With the MSP being so rare and so old they would lose a lot. They would sell maybe 500 of them, so the price would have to be around $1500 to even come close to break even and no MSP owners are going to be able to afford that or want to spend that.

The MSP ECU has never been cracked, and likely never will be.
 
There is not enough demand, it takes a LOT of work and money to develop an AP for a new platform. With the MSP being so rare and so old they would lose a lot. They would sell maybe 500 of them, so the price would have to be around $1500 to even come close to break even and no MSP owners are going to be able to afford that or want to spend that.

The MSP ECU has never been cracked, and likely never will be.

that's a shame....
 
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