Any advantage of getting AWD over FWD in a city like Atlanta?

Rock chips? How fragile do you think they are? LOL. 5,000 miles here, no rock chips. I'm sure the dealer will fix anything that may go wrong. We had our Volvo driven 2 hours to us and it was still pristine.

Well, op made his choice, and that's cool.

I agree with agree with quail, though. I think some of you may be putting a bit too much faith in AWD.

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Pretty fragile. I'm always trying to touch up the hood, etc. before it rusts on mine. Econo-brand (Nissan, Mazda, Subaru, etc.) Japanese paint sucks bro, sorry.
 
That says it all! Thanks.

Yep, but it won't matter. He'd rather sit there and squeal the tires instead of GOING. I mean, who drives a CUV aggressively? Right? But you NEED the Mazda...because it's a driver's car and the 0-60 and...rofl! So much contradiction among the FWD buyers.
 
If it weren't for snow here in the winter and we weren't forced into AWD with the Canadian packaging, it would've been FWD for us. Sure it will obviously help in the snow, but it is by no means absolutely necessary. Basic AWD (i.e. non torque-vectoring) will absolutely help get you going in any reduced traction situation but it does nothing for cornering or stopping ability. Proper tires make a much more significant difference there.

If you're in a climate that doesn't get snow, you will only reap the benefits of AWD if you regularly take yourself off of maintained roads. Loose gravel, dirt, sand, wet / hilly grass, etc. If you don't expose yourself to these situations you may better off treating yourself to an extra option package or trim upgrade in lieu of the AWD. Or maybe some accessories, or simply saving your pennies.

As much as there are benefits to AWD, there are benefits to FWD as well.

- Lower up front cost True
- Lower fuel consumption. Even if marginal it's something. Yep The car is 99% FWD unless it senses slip Which is a lot more often than you think. I learned that when I had my AWD go out due to a flooded diff.
It does a LOT! This is hidden for you guys by the TC logic that hides it by dialing things back for you so you never have a clue.
, but the car is always working to pull the extra rolling resistance caused by having the AWD hardware onboard. Like what? An extra 50-100# That's not extra rolling resistance.
- Lower maintenance costs (no transfer case / diff fluids to change) True. Pretty cheap and not required often though.
- Less stuff to potentially breakdown the road (no transfer case, drive shaft, rear diff, rear axle shafts). True. Have any broken, though, aside from environmentals like when mine flooded due to high water crossing?
- If you have mildly to moderately worn tires and get a flat that can't be repaired you don't have to replace all 4 if your tread depth differential is outside of allowable specifications, you can replace 2 instead. (lets ignore tire shaving for now, as it will only increase the cost of replacing 1 tire to meet the tread depth of the others and you will be paying over full price for a tire that will have reduce life out of the gate) I always replace all 4 at the same time, anyway. It's common sense/safety/performance. Moot point.

Downsides of not having AWD if you're not regularly exposed to reduced traction situations:
- Pretty much none in reasonable everyday driving
- There's no AWD badge on the rear

Of course, NONE of that matters if you simply want AWD. If you want it, get it, enjoy your car. Simple as that.

One valuable lesson I've learned over the years is that a car is a significant purchase. You want to make sure you're 100% happy with your decision when you take delivery, 1 year later, 6 years later (if you're a keeper). You don't want to lie to yourself / try to justify not getting something just to save a few bucks at purchase then regret it down the road. It will cost you more money if you end up selling / trading early because you didn't get that feature. Just my opinion. Hope it helps.

The whole point of buying a CX5 is because it's more fun to drive. Not having AWD takes about 50% of that away in my experience, and only costs a few % more to have...no-brainer.
 
That's actually a 1jz 2.5TT engine.
It's was and actual JDM car. Steering wheel is on the right :)

I was talking about the 99 SC300. I know what yours is because I totally dig it and have for awhile. Haven't yet dipped into the right side yet, though. ;)
 
If it weren't for snow here in the winter and we weren't forced into AWD with the Canadian packaging, it would've been FWD for us. Sure it will obviously help in the snow, but it is by no means absolutely necessary. Basic AWD (i.e. non torque-vectoring) will absolutely help get you going in any reduced traction situation but it does nothing for cornering or stopping ability. Proper tires make a much more significant difference there.

If you're in a climate that doesn't get snow, you will only reap the benefits of AWD if you regularly take yourself off of maintained roads. Loose gravel, dirt, sand, wet / hilly grass, etc. If you don't expose yourself to these situations you may better off treating yourself to an extra option package or trim upgrade in lieu of the AWD. Or maybe some accessories, or simply saving your pennies.

As much as there are benefits to AWD, there are benefits to FWD as well.

- Lower up front cost
- Lower fuel consumption. Even if marginal it's something. The car is 99% FWD unless it senses slip, but the car is always working to pull the extra rolling resistance caused by having the AWD hardware onboard.
- Lower maintenance costs (no transfer case / diff fluids to change)
- Less stuff to potentially breakdown the road (no transfer case, drive shaft, rear diff, rear axle shafts).
- If you have mildly to moderately worn tires and get a flat that can't be repaired you don't have to replace all 4 if your tread depth differential is outside of allowable specifications, you can replace 2 instead. (lets ignore tire shaving for now, as it will only increase the cost of replacing 1 tire to meet the tread depth of the others and you will be paying over full price for a tire that will have reduce life out of the gate)

Downsides of not having AWD if you're not regularly exposed to reduced traction situations:
- Pretty much none in reasonable everyday driving
- There's no AWD badge on the rear

Of course, NONE of that matters if you simply want AWD. If you want it, get it, enjoy your car. Simple as that.

One valuable lesson I've learned over the years is that a car is a significant purchase. You want to make sure you're 100% happy with your decision when you take delivery, 1 year later, 6 years later (if you're a keeper). You don't want to lie to yourself / try to justify not getting something just to save a few bucks at purchase then regret it down the road. It will cost you more money if you end up selling / trading early because you didn't get that feature. Just my opinion. Hope it helps.

^^^ What he said.
I have AWD because CalTrans does not require chains on AWD vehicles, when going skiing. Not that it is any safer, as stopping is the same as FWD.

It seems to me that if you don't know if it's something you need, you don't need it.

Add to above list is lower curb weight, which improves handling, though with AWD rear does push you forward when exiting a turn with and applying power and launch slightly better in certain cases.
 
Just call it a safety feature and get it.You may only need it once and it could save your life

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On roads crossing the Sierra it is often the case that 'invincible' 4WD vehicles are found in a ditch or turned over.
This is because their owners thought 4WD will make them safe, but neglected to use proper tires or maintain sensible speed.
 
Enlighten me then. Point me to something convincing on the topic. Find me a professional tome not written by a random poster or car manufacturer trying to sell it.

I pretty much summed up all the advantages of awd in my post.
 
But it's not full time AWD. You aren't getting power to all 4 wheels most of the time.

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Not correct. The rear wheels are always getting power. I've confirmed this by idling on jacks. Also if you do brisk acceleration or WoT, your are getting a rear bias increase. High increasing rpm in a corner or downshift intonhigh rpm; rear bias increase.. if you have AWD, remove the 30amp dsc fuse and do a little failwheel drive testing, and the difference becomes night and day..
 
Not correct. The rear wheels are always getting power. I've confirmed this by idling on jacks. Also if you do brisk acceleration or WoT, your are getting a rear bias increase. High increasing rpm in a corner or downshift intonhigh rpm; rear bias increase.. if you have AWD, remove the 30amp dsc fuse and do a little failwheel drive testing, and the difference becomes night and day..

It is a HUGE night and day. Do it in the rain, and you'll hate the thing. The only way FWD sells in these cars is because the TC logic dials back the throttle hardcore so that people don't know what's going on.
 
Not correct. The rear wheels are always getting power. I've confirmed this by idling on jacks. Also if you do brisk acceleration or WoT, your are getting a rear bias increase. High increasing rpm in a corner or downshift intonhigh rpm; rear bias increase.. if you have AWD, remove the 30amp dsc fuse and do a little failwheel drive testing, and the difference becomes night and day..

Hey that is really interesting. So, if you drive in conditions where the AWD is working more, will it impact mileage?

Honestly, I think having the rear wheels turning a little bit give a more consistent driving experience. In my old CRV, on slick roads, when going around a turn the AWD would kick in basically fish-tailing the car.
 
Hey that is really interesting. So, if you drive in conditions where the AWD is working more, will it impact mileage?

Honestly, I think having the rear wheels turning a little bit give a more consistent driving experience. In my old CRV, on slick roads, when going around a turn the AWD would kick in basically fish-tailing the car.

Subaru made the claim a few years back, that driving all 4 wheels is more economical vs just the fronts, in an AWD. I think Mazda has a video of a journalist meeting that says the same thing...
 
Subaru made the claim a few years back, that driving all 4 wheels is more economical vs just the fronts, in an AWD. I think Mazda has a video of a journalist meeting that says the same thing...

Push pull, makes sense...
 
Not correct. The rear wheels are always getting power. I've confirmed this by idling on jacks. Also if you do brisk acceleration or WoT, your are getting a rear bias increase. High increasing rpm in a corner or downshift intonhigh rpm; rear bias increase.. if you have AWD, remove the 30amp dsc fuse and do a little failwheel drive testing, and the difference becomes night and day..

Good to know! Thanks.
 
BTW off topic but this was my first Mazda!
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Man I can't believe how small it was.

Nice! Way back when I was VR4 shopping, I was considering the RX7 Turbo as well, but they were much more scarce. Finally found a red one with ~48k miles on it for a reasonable price. What held me back was reading that almost all RX7 motors needed to be rebuilt at 50k. Ultimately I passed and bought a VR4 shortly thereafter.

Having said that, there is an older gentleman in my area that still drives his 1993 Green RX7 around... but its clearly showing its age.
 
Totally agree. We live in Dallas... flat as a pancake... and we just signed the deal on a GT AWD for all the reasons you mentioned. Putting power down to all 4 wheels makes a difference. We also get the occasional ice storm here (as you know) and our driveway is steep. It was a joke trying to get the G37 Convertible with RWD into the garage. Haven't tried FWD, but my A4 with Quattro, no problem.
I have the same problem with steep driveways. Even with Continental DWS tires (which are probably the best all season tires for winter) on a FWD Mazda3/Mazdaspeed3, both cars have trouble getting up a driveway covered in snow/ice. At one point last year when it iced a little in Dallas, I was at a stoplight that was a slight uphill with the Mazdaspeed3. I have Continental DWS06 tires on it and the car has a front LSD. When the light turned green, the car would just wiggle left and right as it tried to find traction. I had traction control on and was feathering the throttle. I eventually got going with no issues but AWD would have been nice to have then.

Of course, but I think a few folks here expect it to be a lot more active then it is.
This is also dependent on your driving style and driving conditions. If you drive aggressively and take corners aggressively, you will be using AWD more often.
 
Nice! Way back when I was VR4 shopping, I was considering the RX7 Turbo as well, but they were much more scarce. Finally found a red one with ~48k miles on it for a reasonable price. What held me back was reading that almost all RX7 motors needed to be rebuilt at 50k. Ultimately I passed and bought a VR4 shortly thereafter.

Having said that, there is an older gentleman in my area that still drives his 1993 Green RX7 around... but its clearly showing its age.

Well I bought mine with 73k miles and sold it with 120k miles.
Engine was rebuilt on purpose to add a mild street port.
Otherwise never had an issue. Drove it several times from Miami to Gainesville with no issues other than the 21mpg HWY and being very easy on the gas.
It has a 20 gal gas tank I believe. It was brutal when gas was $4/gal and the city driving mpg is like 14...

BTW....

MY AWD CX-5 IS ON ITS WAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Arrives tomorrow or Friday!!!

OMG
OMG
OMG!!!!!
 
Yes!
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So I'm pretty set on the CX-5 but having hard time sourcing a AWD car.
Is it worth the premium? Does the car drive noticeably different in dry roads or wet roads?

I live in Cumming (north of Atlanta) and we dont get much snow up here, but I do notice the difference on wet roads. FWD can be a bit squirly on wet roads, though I havent tried a CX-5 FWD.
I'm sure the gas mileage suffers - I average 23.7 mpg mixed city/hwy, but I drive with a heavy foot so dont go by me ;-)
One thing you need to know is if you have more than 15%(?) wear on your tires and you wind up having to replace a tire for any reason (i did - long story) you will need to replace ALL 4, as the wear needs to be even across all 4 (AWD) or drive train wear can result.
 
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