Just picked my 2017 up Saturday. Thoughts on protecting paint?

I think I'm going to get the full Hood / Bumper / Fender package at this local place on Friday. I want to go on a small road-trip that will have a few hours of highway driving one way and that will give me peace of mind overall. I just don't want to get in the situation where I see one decent rock chip and I think... F*** it, too late now and then not care anymore.

What I'm slightly worried about is all the salt and snow the paint will encounter out here in the winter. Utah gets a pretty good amount of snow and we salt roads maybe even more than I'd like to see.
 
Roman, You have many options available for you and you need to weigh the costs vs the benefit and how it applies to you. No one can decide what is "best" except for you and your pocket book.

First off lets talk about PPF (paint protection film) commonly called clear bra: PPF is the only thing that you can add to the car that will significantly reduce the chances of getting rock chips on the front of the car. Many of the brands are crystal clear, guaranteed for at least 10 years and have self-healing properties, meaning that if something does scratch them a day in the sun can greatly reduce those scratches. This option is more expensive and finding a quality installer to do the work is just as important as choosing a quality product. The environment that PPF get applied needs to be dust free and clean otherwise you run the risk of getting particles trapped under the film and creating bubbles. Because of this I do not recommend doing it your self. Is it possible to install yourself, Yes, but it's a challenging task to get right. I have HFM (hood fender mirrors) and full front bumper on mine. The hood is the bikini cut with a curved line about 2/3 the way up the hood, It's very hard to see unless your right on top of it and looking for it. I also recommend the door cups which protect the area behind the door handles from fingernails and rings that scratch the paint there. Those areas are difficult to polish if they do get scratched.

The Next option is Coatings. Coatings essentially add a layer of clear coat that bonds to the already applied clear coat to add durability. They are typically ceramic based and can be very hard, 9H hardness level, diamond is 10H. They can be removed and reapplied as need. There are two different levels of coating that you can go with, Pro level and consumer level. The difference between the two are cost and longevity. Pro level coatings require an authorized installer in order to purchase and can not be had by the average consumer. The reason for this is because they must be applied correctly because if there is an error, the only way to remove the pro level coatings is by wet sanding with 1500grit. Pro coatings typically come with a 10-15 year warranty and run around $1000 to be installed. The high price is due to prep work needed before applying them. The car must be 100% free of defects. Even brand new cars will require at minimum a full paint correction polishing followed by a panel wipe to remove any polish residue left behind. Polishing a car to that level can often take 8+ hours to do correctly.

The Consumer level coatings are very similar to the Pro offerings but are much more user friendly and quite easy to apply. If a mistake is made, high spots can be buffed off with either polish or compound and a Dual action or rotary buffer. Some claim the same level of hardness but are not as thick and typically will last between 2-5 years depending on the product and type of abuse it is subject to. They protect the paint and offer a very high level of hydrophobic properties so that dirt and water do not stick to the car and make it easier to clean and maintain. I recommend this type of coating for you. They can be applied by you and offer much better protection then waxes or sealants, almost negating the need for such products if you so choose. A few of my favorites are: Optimum Gloss coat (2years) - 10cc - $60, Gtechniq Crystal serum light (3-5years) - $70 can be topped with Gtechniq EXO to had more shine and hydrophobic properties as well as extended protection - $115 for CSL + EXO kit, Carpro Cquartz Kit (2-3years) 30ml bottle - $75, and pinnicale black label diamond paint coating (3years) - $80. With any of these coatings the paint needs to be free of defects and swirls so for a new car I would still recommend a light polishing by machine with a light cutting foam pad, followed by an 15% Isopropyl Alcohol wipe or panel wipe to remove polishing oils and residue before applying the coating.

If you are going to do a coating, many of them can be applied directly on top of a PPF so it doesn't have to be one or the other, it can be both. Wash the car with quality soap, decontaminate with an iron remover like CarPro Iron-X, wash again, Clay bar the entire vehicle, Wash, Dry, IPA or panel wipe, and then apply coating following the manufactures recommended procedure.

If coatings seem to intense for you many detailers can apply them for you at a cost, find a good detailer and talk it over with them and what they think would be your best options, They don't have to be a PRO coating installer, many aren't since it requires certification, which costs money to be a PRO coating installer.

Aside from coatings you can also just keep up on regular waxing or Sealant treatments. Now the terms wax and sealant can be a bit confusing when looking at product. Some waxes are actually sealant and some sealants are actually waxes and it seems its up to the manufacturer and how they market on what they actually call it. I typically think of anything that is synthetic to be a sealant and anything that contains natural ingredients, mostly Carnauba wax to be a true wax or a hybrid wax/sealant combo.

Carnauba Wax is not as durable as a true synthetic sealant, lasting only about 2 months at most. The shine and depth that natural high quality carnauba wax provides is hard to beat but the constant need to re-apply is a bit of a turn off for me. I would only use carnauba wax before going to a car show or something similar to give the vehicle that extra little bit of pop.

Synthetic sealants are the way to go as many of them rival the appearance of carnauba waxes but last for longer, are safe to use or get on the trim with out turning it white and are much easyier to and remove. My favorites are Collonite 845 insulator wax (its called a wax but its a synthetic sealant, Collonite 476, Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid wax (again actually a synthetic sealant) and FinishKare 1000p. These products will usually last around 6-8 months if cared for properly with regular washes and a spray wax topper from time to time. I have really been liking Meguiars Ultimate Spray wax lately due to it's local availability. Optimum Car Wax spray is also a very nice spray wax that is easy to use.

On to Washing: A proper washing technique is crucial to maintaining a scratch and swirl free finish. I would avoid car washes as best you can. The car washes with the spinning brushes are just swirl-o-matics, and the gentle touch ones aren't much better. Think of what it means to your cars finish if you are the car that goes thru right after a very dirty truck that was offroading goes before you. All that dirt and grit is still in the brushes and what not about to be rubbed all over your car. Touchless car washes are a bit better but as there is nothing to physically touch the car and induce swirls but in order to clean the car they use rather harsh chemicals that can an will strip any waxes or sealant you have applied.

Use either a rinseless wash solution like Optimum No Rinse (ONR) or a quality car shampoo and the two bucket method with grit guards. If you want more info on the ONR washing let me know and I can detail that further. I'll focus on the two bucket method. You need two buckets each with there own grit guard inserts in the bottom. Grit guards are plastic grids that sit on the bottom of the bucket and help trap dirt and debris at the bottom of the wash solution that is picked up by the wash mitt. One bucket is should be your Clean wash bucket that you add your shampoo too and the other bucket is your rinse bucket which you use to rinse your wash mitt out after doing a panel. Rinse the wash mitt in the rinse bucket, you can agitate against the grit guard to help remove more dirt and wring it out, Dunk into your wash bucket getting as much suds as you can. Wash your vehicle from the top down using straight back and forth stokes to reduce swirls. Do not wash in a circular motion as any scratches will be noticeable if they are induced. Rinse your mitt after each panel. I do roof, hood, fenders, doors, front bumper, then rear tailgate as that is usually least to most dirty.

Dry with a high quality microfiber drying towel, either waffle weave or plush, your choice. You can even use a leaf blower to dry the car if you want. I like the rag companys Platinum Pluffle towels for drying, they are a waffle weave plush hybrid towel and hold a lot of water.

That should just about cover your wanting to know how to maintain your paint finish. If you have more questions feel free to ask or PM me and I can be more specific about any one of the topics or products I covered.

Of Coarse there are hundreds of different products from hundreds of different manufactures that can be use with great results, I just listed ones that I personally like or have tried in the past.
 
I did a fair bit of research and it seems like XPEL was the way to go. I found a lot of negative things about 3M, but that might have been because it was their older films that weren't as good as new technology. I ended up with the XPEL Ultimate. There were a couple of other films mentioned such as SunTek that were rated pretty good, but XPEL is what most people carried by me.

I'm 50/50 because of both cost and I'm still slightly paranoid that it could somehow mess the paint up when I take it off. I know if you do it correctly that's not going to happen, and I plan to have a certified XPEL installer remove it, but I might get it taken off in 3.5-4 years just to be safe that it doesn't sit on the car for too long. If it lasts the 4 years (which it should) that really breaks down to around $300 a year, which I guess isn't as bad assuming it keeps your front end looking brand new.

Ventureshield is the older legacy 3M film. The new 3M film (3M Pro Series) is their latest film which competes with Suntek and Expel Ultimate which is the industry standard. All 3 have self-healing capabilities.

I've posted that I had 3M pro on my Mazda6 front bumper....my mistake I believe its actually Expel which was professionally installed. I installed 3M Pro series on my headlights and half the hood myself. You can get the 3M Pro series on EB in bulk. I think I bought a 2ft x 4ft roll or so for like $60. Good deal for us DIYers!! The 3M Pro is a good film. Probably not the best but probably the best value.

I installed the older 3M Ventureshield on our 2013 CX-5 and its still holding up really well 5 years later. No yellowing or anything like that. It boils down to the proper install (50% prep, 50% technique) and post install care. It's an inferior film because bug guts and tree sap don't come off as easily as the latest films. Protectionwise its similar to them.
 
For suckers if ask Me

I somewhat agree, and believe it may be a tad overkill for a car of this price range. If you look at the highly known shop here, the majority of their clients are $100k+ type rides where the client wouldn't even notice a couple Gs outta their bank account anyways...
 
Roman, You have many options available for you...

Well thank you good sir, that was a lot of really useful and good information! Thanks for taking the time.

You've given me a really good array of options here, pretty much exactly what I was looking to find out about. What brand of PPF did you apply to your CX-5? XPEL? Those ceramic coats do seem to be intense albeit a fantastic option. I think the PPF seems to be the way to go, I've seen what it looks like on the CX-5 at the dealer and it didn't bother me at all.

I'll definitely be taking the time to hand wash and wax the car, especially during the summer months (liking the technique you describe!; for the first year of my last car, I washed it by hand and probably induced more swirls than any automatic car wash ever would have). I'd be lying if I said this was going to be possible during the winter out here though. I'm hoping a high quality touchless car wash won't necessarily leave my paint looking less than 'newish' if I get it machine polished at a detailer at some point? I've seen those car wash swirls be lifted and the paint returned to nearly a brand new form— hoping that will be the case here if I can't do handwashes Dec - Feb.

Ultimately, I think what scares me about ever using an automatic carwash of any kind... is the potential for rock chips (honestly.. you really don't know what might happen in those things, last year one ripped off some plastic pieces / trims around my window). I'm not sure the one on Sunday actually put that little pin prick of a chip in my hood but boy did that scare me.

Going to do a little handwash and waxing this weekend!

BTW, what do you think about rust in general with the CX-5? I know it appears to be an issue with Mazda in general after reading around these past few days, but some of the pictures I've seen on fairly new CX-5's is a bit concerning. Are you doing anything to yours, in terms of some kind of undercoating / rust protection?
 
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Wish I would have put a clear bra or something on mine. The front of my hood is riddled with rock hits.

I didn't because I really don't like the look of cars with those clear films/bras.

Guess I learned now.
 
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Well thank you good sir, that was a lot of really useful and good information! Thanks for taking the time.

You've given me a really good array of options here, pretty much exactly what I was looking to find out about. What brand of PPF did you apply to your CX-5? XPEL? Those ceramic coats do seem to be intense albeit a fantastic option. I think the PPF seems to be the way to go, I've seen what it looks like on the CX-5 at the dealer and it didn't bother me at all.

I'll definitely be taking the time to hand wash and wax the car, especially during the summer months (liking the technique you describe!; for the first year of my last car, I washed it by hand and probably induced more swirls than any automatic car wash ever would have). I'd be lying if I said this was going to be possible during the winter out here though. I'm hoping a high quality touchless car wash won't necessarily leave my paint looking less than 'newish' if I get it machine polished at a detailer at some point? I've seen those car wash swirls be lifted and the paint returned to nearly a brand new form— hoping that will be the case here if I can't do handwashes Dec - Feb.

Ultimately, I think what scares me about ever using an automatic carwash of any kind... is the potential for rock chips (honestly.. you really don't know what might happen in those things, last year one ripped off some plastic pieces / trims around my window). I'm not sure the one on Sunday actually put that little pin prick of a chip in my hood but boy did that scare me.

Going to do a little handwash and waxing this weekend!

BTW, what do you think about rust in general with the CX-5? I know it appears to be an issue with Mazda in general after reading around these past few days, but some of the pictures I've seen on fairly new CX-5's is a bit concerning. Are you doing anything to yours, in terms of some kind of undercoating / rust protection?

I believe my installer used Suntek PPF if i'm not mistaken. He said he liked that film much better then the Xpel as he felt the Xpel wasn't as glossy. I felt confident in his work and his shop, when I took my car in they also had a Mercedes AMG GTS, A BWM M5, a challenger hellcat and a MB G-wagon in for PPF. If those cars and their owners trust this shop, my lowly CX-5 sure trusts that shop.

Like I said, I did the PPF on the front, hood, fender mirrors and front bumper. Before it was installed I polished the paint to remove the dealer induced swirls from them washing the car with red shop rags for me (face palm)! After the PPF was installed I used optimum Gloss coat coating. It was very easy to apply and went right over every exterior surface on the car except glass. Paint, trim and lights. It's been about 16months, still water beading very well, a little deterioration below the belt line on the doors from the winters but not to bad. I'll probably recoat with something fall or just add some more Gloss Coat to the doors here soon.

Washing your car by hand in the winter is totally possible. Look at Optimum No Rinse (ONR). Do you have a garage or somewhere else that is relatively sheltered? I'm in Wisconsin and use ONR in the winter months and wash the car in my garage.

Here's how you do it:

1) Fill a bucket with about 4 gallons of luke warm water and add about 4oz of the ONR solution to the bucket.
2) Get some edgeless microfiber towels, 5-6 should be enough for the CX-5 size, I use 5, and add them to the bucket.
3) Use a spray bottle or garden sprayer with ONR solution to presoak the really dirty areas on the vehicle.
4) Take one of you microfiber towels out of the bucket and fold it into fourths, start from the top down as previously described and wipe in long straight strokes. Turning the towel to a new clean section after every wipe, I can get about three swipes per 1/4 side by using the front, middle and back as my leading edge.
5) after you've washed one panel dry it immediately with your drying towel and move onto the next section.
6) Grab a new fresh microfiber from the bucket and proceed to wash the rest of the car drying after each section. My sections are, Towel #1:Roof and windows including side windows on up, Towel #2:Front end (hood, bumper, fenders), Towel #3: Passanger side doors and rear quarter panel, Towel #4: Driver side doors and Rear quarter, Towel #5 Rear end.

I place the used towel on a small cart I have and rinse them all out in the bucket when done. Don't put the dirty towels back into the Clean water solution until you're finished. find that doing the wash this way doesn't take any longer then my summer time 2 bucket wash with hose and the amount of water on the ground when done is no greater then parking in the garage after it's rained on the car and dripped off.

ONR is a great product that traps and encapsulates dirt with in the solution preventing scratches. I was skeptical at first as washing the car with out a rinse from the hose was new to me but it works extremely well. ONR can be used year round for washes if you like as it is much more water usage friendly. Search YouTube videos for How-to's.

If you are new to machine polishing you can pick up a Harbor Freight Dual Action Polisher for cheap and order a new 5" backing plate and some quality foam pads to start with. The HF polisher is actually pretty decent and can create some great results.
 
Think all these places cater to high end clients, and it's no surprise with a full job costing several thousand...These guys use XPEL products and it's the official one of BMW Performance Driving School as well.
 

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Think all these places cater to high end clients, and it's no surprise with a full job costing several thousand...These guys use XPEL products and it's the official one of BMW Performance Driving School as well.


This is not some super exotic expensive product. Fortunately for me I've got a hookup and well my experienced 2 hands.

Aside from the front bumper which is ideally a 2-person job just about anyone here on this forum can install paint protection film. Prepping, patience, and a little practice is all it takes. Its not really that hard. Hood, headlights, fogs, fender, door sills. You're looking at about oh...$100 worth of bulk film. Took me 45 minutes to cover up half my hood installed. Door sills are no more than 5 minutes each. Fogs are 2-3 minutes each. The headlights take a good 45 minutes though. This is with bulk film which is cheaper than pre-cut film.

I've installed the front bumper film on my 2013 CX-5. Its tough without a 2nd person. So what I did for my next car (and will continue to do in the future) is have only the front bumper installed at a shop whom has the pre-cut plots. Too many intricate lines to free lance cut. I'd negotiate $300 installed. Anything above $400 essentially is too expensive to me. Your talking $30-40 worth of film on a 1-hour job. $300 for their time, film, and usage of their plot is reasonable. My hookup provides a free car rental along with that :)

Everything else I can do using $60 worth of film. Like I said prepping, patience, and a little practice is all it takes. So no more than $400 for me.

On that note I'd highly suggest folks reading this to go buy $7 bulk of film such as this: https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)
Practice installing it on their fog lights. You've got enough to screw up a couple of times too. Easy job for just $7. Master than and you can tackle door edges. Next up up pre-cut fenders.
 
This is not some super exotic expensive product. Fortunately for me I've got a hookup and well my experienced 2 hands.

Aside from the front bumper which is ideally a 2-person job just about anyone here on this forum can install paint protection film. Prepping, patience, and a little practice is all it takes. Its not really that hard. Hood, headlights, fogs, fender, door sills. You're looking at about oh...$100 worth of bulk film. Took me 45 minutes to cover up half my hood installed. Door sills are no more than 5 minutes each. Fogs are 2-3 minutes each. The headlights take a good 45 minutes though. This is with bulk film which is cheaper than pre-cut film.

I've installed the front bumper film on my 2013 CX-5. Its tough without a 2nd person. So what I did for my next car (and will continue to do in the future) is have only the front bumper installed at a shop whom has the pre-cut plots. Too many intricate lines to free lance cut. I'd negotiate $300 installed. Anything above $400 essentially is too expensive to me. Your talking $30-40 worth of film on a 1-hour job. $300 for their time, film, and usage of their plot is reasonable. My hookup provides a free car rental along with that :)

Everything else I can do using $60 worth of film. Like I said prepping, patience, and a little practice is all it takes. So no more than $400 for me.

On that note I'd highly suggest folks reading this to go buy $7 bulk of film such as this: https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)
Practice installing it on their fog lights. You've got enough to screw up a couple of times too. Easy job for just $7. Master than and you can tackle door edges. Next up up pre-cut fenders.

I never said the product was expensive, but to have a pro do the process it is. Most want $2k for a full car, and tack on another $2300 if you want a full ceramic coating job on everything. That's roughly 15% of what a CX-5 GT cost new. Lol

But, whatevs...
 
I never said the product was expensive, but to have a pro do the process it is. Most want $2k for a full car, and tack on another $2300 if you want a full ceramic coating job on everything. That's roughly 15% of what a CX-5 GT cost new. Lol

But, whatevs...

Yeah I heard about the ceramic coating. I'll save that for my 911 gt :)
 
Yeah I heard about the ceramic coating. I'll save that for my 911 gt :)
Doing a coating on your car isn't something that has to be reserved only for the elite autos of the world. A prosumer ceramic (SOi2) coating will cost about $100. Gtechniq Crystal serum light topped with EXO, known as the CSL black kit runs $115 and is amazing. At that price and not having to wax the car several times a year for at least years it's worth it to me. When shops quote $1500-$2500 for coating a car it's the rather intensive polishing that they do before application. They often want show car perfection which isn't really needed for the cx-5 daily driver.
 
Agree. The shops around here that do coating the price depends on the amount. $300 is 2 coats, lasts 1 or 2 years. The $2500 one lasts like 8 to 10.

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Agree. The shops around here that do coating the price depends on the amount. $300 is 2 coats, lasts 1 or 2 years. The $2500 one lasts like 8 to 10.

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The two year one here is $800 bucks, and here's what you get...

2 Year (warrantied) Package
Dual Action Enhancement Polish

1 Layer of CP LIGHT on Paint

1 Layer of CP PLASTIC on Exterior Plastics

1 Layer of CP WHEEL on Rim Faces (2yr)

Starting at ……………………$799.00
 
As for actual cleaning:

For me I went the monthly to bi-weekly Optimum No Rinse Wash & Wax route. After an initial claybar session you really don't need subsequent claybaring anytime soon. This stuff pulls stuff off of the paint as each subsequent cleaning gradually attacks contaminants from sticking. I use a hybrid system process. 1 clean bucket using 1/4 gallon reverse osmosis water with 1/4 cap of ONRWW to provide a super concentrated formula (allows the bottle to last a long time!). 2 microfiber towels soaked in the bucket. They get folded with each fold dedicated to a section of the car. (16 folds between the two towels). Once towels touch the car they are never reintroduced to the clean bucket. The still clean concentrated formula in the clean bucket gets poured in a spray bottle to be used for prepping (It could also be re-purposed as a detailer spray and clay bar lubricant saving even more money.)

I give the car a quick 5 minute hose down. Then I spray the concentrated formula unto a panel to pre-treat it. I follow up with wiping that panel with a clean fold of a towel. Spray another panel with the concentrated formula and use a new clean fold. Repeat until the car paint and PPF film is done. I do the black panels last. The result is a smooth feeling waxed car with blackened panels. I found this process prolongs the need to clay bar or dedicate a wax session after coming up with this process. That said my 8-once bottle is 3/4th done after a year. I may try other no-rinse products to experiment but otherwise excellent results from ONRWW.

Disclaimer: I live in a relatively dry environment with lots of dust. I don't have to deal with snow. If my car is heavily caked in dirt I like using Megiuar's Ultimate Wash and Wax and then wiped down with ONRWW. That said dirt simply melts away due to the ONRWW :)
 
Agree. The shops around here that do coating the price depends on the amount. $300 is 2 coats, lasts 1 or 2 years. The $2500 one lasts like 8 to 10.

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The 8-10 year coatings are very similar to the ones available to the average consumer, it's just how hard they end up being when cured. Those pro level coatings like optimum Opti-Coat pro can only be removed by wet sanding with 1500grit. Because the Coating has no fillers or hiding ability the car must be 100% and I mean 100% free of defects before application. In order to polish, even a new car to 100% perfection your looking at anywhere between and 8-20 hours of labor to do the polishing. You wouldn't want a scratch or swirl marks to be locked into your paint for the next 10 years of ownership. That why I recommend the Prosumer coatings available from Autogeek, Detailed Image, autopia-carcare and similar detailing supply sites. They last 2-5 years depending on coating are fairly user friendly and can be removed with polishing if need. They don't hide scratches but can be removed, the scratches polished away and reapplied. If you are willing and able to do it yourself you can get great results. I'm about to do my wifes 2016 GLE350 we bought used. It has light swirls and some deeper rids. I'm going to polish so the finish is above 90% perfect and then apply CarPro essence, Gtechnig Cyrstal Serum Light and top with Gtechniq EXO, This should give me about 4-5 years of protection before I have to do anything else to the finish. Total cost for me shipped to my door is about $135 for those three products. Of course I'm going to have to spend several hours, possibly days polishing the paint, but I enjoy doing the work, it's relaxing to me and I like seeing the perfect finish come out of the vehicle.
 
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