2017 CX-5 Towing Options

Just spoke to the dealer. There is now a Canadian part number for the OEM harness.

00CT-88-C57H

MSRP $100CAN

I get it for $89, or $180 + tax for it installed (the install also discounted a little because of the wait).

My Mazda3 goes in for service tomorrow. Will take a look at the instructions and determine if it's any different and if I want to install myself.
 
Finally!! Sounds even more expensive than the cost of pro installation + part in the US. I paid $100 U$D for the installation (because it is not simple, took him 2.5 hours) plus $63 for the part. The instructions are 15 pages long, so I opted not to do it myself. I didn't feel comfortable removing/replacing all of those trim panels, plates, carpeting, door seals, etc. Mazda has made it unnecessarily complicated and expensive to install a trailer wiring harness. My previous SUV, a 2013 Acura RDX, had an access door in the rear cargo area and a harness connector inside. It took me literally 2 minutes. The OEM harness was $60.
 
rborroto said:
Finally!! Sounds even more expensive than the cost of pro installation + part in the US. I paid $100 U$D for the installation (because it is not simple, took him 2.5 hours) plus $63 for the part. The instructions are 15 pages long, so I opted not to do it myself. I didn't feel comfortable removing/replacing all of those trim panels, plates, carpeting, door seals, etc. Mazda has made it unnecessarily complicated and expensive to install a trailer wiring harness. My previous SUV, a 2013 Acura RDX, had an access door in the rear cargo area and a harness connector inside. It took me literally 2 minutes. The OEM harness was $60.
Click to expand...

The part is roughly the same cost taking into account our poor conversion rate. Install is actually the same at $100 (they quoted me at 10% off over the phone). I'll take a good look at the instructions before jumping into it. Although I'm sure I can handle it from your experience it may be worth saving the frustration for the $100.
 
Studum said:
The part is roughly the same cost taking into account our poor conversion rate. Install is actually the same at $100 (they quoted me at 10% off over the phone). I'll take a good look at the instructions before jumping into it. Although I'm sure I can handle it from your experience it may be worth saving the frustration for the $100.
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Good luck! I cringed at the thought of removing all those parts, running cables underneath the vehicle (without the aid of a lift), and having to put all that back into place. I know my limits, so I opted to have a pro do it. Yeah, it sounds like the cost is comparable in CA.
 
I picked it up today. Dealer helped me out a little more on cost which was nice. Nothing earth shattering but the gesture was appreciated.

It was a pleasant surprise when I opened the box... It's plug and play except for 1 wire that needs to tap into a harness at the rear and a ground. Nothing to do up front under the hood at all. The harness is very nicely made / OEM quality. Definitely happy I held out for this and well worth the extra couple $.

2 hardest parts will be: getting into the side panels behind the tail lights and tapping into the existing harness connector. That's really the only scary part for me.

Will see how it goes. Going to attempt myself and if I lose confidence will take it back in, they will honor the slight discount on install as well as long as I don't screw anything up and make their job more difficult.

Photos attached because photobucket doesn't work anymore and I haven't signed up anywhere else yet

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That's the same as what I got. They put that listing up individually because I emailed asking for a cost on the wiring harness only. Initially they had it listed only with the trailer hitch.
 
Woot... finally success :)

I almost left the harness inside the left cubby to pull out the hatch when needed but instead I used the harness mount that was included with the kit. Instead of mounting it to the hitch (bracket doesn't exist on the curt hitch like it does the OEM hitch) there are 2 holes in the bottom of the rear bumper support that lined up perfectly with the mounting bracket. I removed 1 plastic push-pin fastener and the bracket bolted right up under the bumper. Pretty happy with how it turned out.

343szys.jpg


It took me 2 hrs total at a relaxed pace . That included 30+ mins combined of talking on the phone, fetching the appropriate beverages and trying to find my damn electrical tape - arguably the most frustrating part of the install. I also spent time to tie things down a lot more than instructed and took plenty of photos along the way.

Here's an in-process shot that reflects the bulk of the disassembly required.

14domme.jpg


I have no idea how it took a dealership tech 2.5 hrs considering I'd never touched the car before, unless the US kit is more involving or that included the hitch as well - if it did that makes complete sense. I figure if I had my ducks in a row it would've taken me 90 minutes for the harness only and if I had to do it again now that I've done it already I bet I'd come in at 60-70 minutes.

The instructions were actually pretty good but as typical did leave some details out. You won't have any issue with this job if you're comfortable with vehicle interior plastics and electrics. There is the opportunity to damage your trunk side panels as well as a main rear electrical harness if you're not careful. I took enough photos to eventually put a basic how-to together if needed.

Onward and upward :)
 
2017 CX5 w/Nav. Had U-haul install a hitch and harness for me on 8-23. Used it once several weeks ago (need to put vertical posts at back corners of 4x8 trailer because it vanishes and is a huge PITA to back up). On 10-21 was driving in the mist/rain and the forward radar and auto braking while in cruise failed so I stepped on the brakes to stop. As I was stopped at an intersection behind a few cars I figured to reset things in normal computer style - turn it off and back on again. Car wouldn't start and was locked in park. (learned to unlock by lifting 1/2/" square plug in front of shift lever, inserting a pen, and pushing down while pulling lever out of park). Flatbed back to the dealership, where they found a blown brakelight fuse. They replaced fuse and it blew again and smoke started coming from L taillamp area. They disconnected U-Haul wiring and with another fuse all was well again.

They suggested a Mazda wiring harness, part # 00008ER07. ONLY thing is, there is currently a Mazda quality hold on that part and dealers are not to sell it till the issues are worked out and new harnesses are produced. Double checked that with several unaffiliated dealers and got the same message. So, be advised, and pack a spare fuse or two I guess. Tech says a blown brake fuse WILL prevent starting, as brake interlock switch messsage doesn't get through to the computer - sounds plausible, matches symptoms.
 
That sucks. Did U-Haul install a Mazda OEM harness, or a U-Haul “universal” harness? The Mazda harness has its own circuitry, breaker, etc. so as not to overload the regular tail light fuses.
 
rborroto said:
That sucks. Did U-Haul install a Mazda OEM harness, or a U-Haul “universal” harness? The Mazda harness has its own circuitry, breaker, etc. so as not to overload the regular tail light fuses.
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U-Haul universal. We had calm words and they will rebate the cost of harness and labor. Thing that is of note is that two Mazda dealers claim the 00008ER07 harness is not to be sold currently as it has a "quality issue". Bummer, as we had the hitch installed for our trip south this Saturday and I don't imagine the Mazda harness will be cured and available by then.
 
If you're in a hurry, there is an awesome product from Tekonsha (not vehicle specific) that does not touch the vehicle's electrical system (other than a dedicated power cable directly to the battery). It's self-contained, available now, requires no splicing, but it's EXPENSIVE. It's the Zero Contact Interface. UHaul sells it, don't know if they also install it (I don't see why they wouldn't).
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
 
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I wonder if Uhaul used a non-powered adapter or used one but got lazy and didn't run a power line.

Both US and Canada OEM adapter tap into a factory ran accessory wire in the rear harness. You actually put a pin into the harness and don't have to do anything else.

Only other difference is that US part number uses wire taps to tap into the remaining wires at rear, where the Canadian harness is plug and play with the tail light connectors. Other than that they tap into the same power line at the rear and use the same ground point at the rear.

Aftermarket powered adapters are very similar to the US ones with the wire taps, they just need a power line ran to the battery instead of putting a pin into the existing harness.

Either way Uhaul either messed up, or the part messed up. Glad you came out of it OK and nothing else fried. Explanation of issue / non-start sounds plausible.
 
On my 2014 touring I installed a Tekonsha tow ready 118563 towing harness from Amazon for about 61.00.It's plug and play, no need to cut into brake wires.It also has it's own power module so it doesn't load the brake light circuit.I installed a 15 amp cigarette lighter plug to plug into the power socket inside the rear hatch area.
I ended up not towing with it yet but it checks good with the cheap little tester from harbor freight.Don't know if it fits 2017 cx-5.
 
Studum said:
FYI - Plug and play (+ power connection) wiring harnesses are now available aftermarket for the '17 from Curt and Tekonsha.

I still can't get the OEM one here in Canada at this time. Can't get the Tekonsha (yet) either, however the curt is now available. Debating if to continue to wait for OEM to become available here or just grab the Curt. I've emailed Mazda USA to see if the can connect me with the instructions for the Mazda US OEM kit so I can look into verifying if necessary harness connections are on my Canadian model.

http://www.curtmfg.com/part/56377

http://www.tekonsha.com/products/electrical-wiring/t-one-connector/tow-harness-t-connector-assembly/!FQHI%7CfPlghJZkcriTmM5KgKjzBkctoXddzpdrmCMSU=
Click to expand...

Thanks! Sounds like the plug and play options could be much easier than the OEM.
 
gdluke said:
Thanks! Sounds like the plug and play options could be much easier than the OEM.
Click to expand...

There are other threads on the harness options. I did the OEM install and it was simple. It does require some taps that are included. The other options listed above may not use taps, but you do have run power from the battery at the front of the car. You have to decide what is easier.
 
alphadog00 said:
There are other threads on the harness options. I did the OEM install and it was simple. It does require some taps that are included. The other options listed above may not use taps, but you do have run power from the battery at the front of the car. You have to decide what is easier.
Click to expand...

Good to know Alpha, thanks.
 
I used the Canadian OEM which seems the best of all worlds. No tapping into wires, no insulation damaged. You have to insert the power pin into an existing harness, and you have to thread the 4 flat wires in from the outside before you snap them into their connector. No running a separate power line to the battery.

The included bracket fits the holes that Studum suggests.
 
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