Opinions please

I've been looking at this black and gold carbon vented bonnet.

Only 2 left. Just saving some $$$
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I really want to see you finish this no matter what anyone thinks this is gonna be custom AF!
 
How strong is that splitter? In order to be functional at high speeds and not merely a decorative poser part, you need to be able to stand on it.
 
Just remove the weatherstripping along the back of the hood/bottom of the windshield. Boom, hood vented.

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Ummm, the area at the base of the windshield is a high pressure area - removing the weatherstripping will leave an opening for air to be pushed back into the engine compartment, raising the the underhood air pressure and probably causing cooling issues because air will no longer want to flow through the radiator. The vented hood is a much better idea.
 
How strong is that splitter? In order to be functional at high speeds and not merely a decorative poser part, you need to be able to stand on it.

Is that the science? Should I stand on the roof to see if that's strong enough too?


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How'd you make that splitter? Single piece? Molded? Glued? Welded? Thinking to make something similar myself, just wanting to know your process, how to do it easier, what to avoid, etc.

I've been looking at this black and gold carbon vented bonnet.

Only 2 left. Just saving some $$$
8e8c17260d4c940f1887365a3b1f5cd5.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hood looks pretty dope. Just make sure those are functional vents before spending the money.


Ummm, the area at the base of the windshield is a high pressure area - removing the weatherstripping will leave an opening for air to be pushed back into the engine compartment, raising the the underhood air pressure and probably causing cooling issues because air will no longer want to flow through the radiator. The vented hood is a much better idea.

You may have to explain this one to me, and/or provide scientific sources.
When stationery air is being pushed up across the hood and windshield by the force of the car moving forward, how does enough air start moving on its own and go backward and down through a small opening(when there is no vacuum), to create what is basically backpressure, thus creating enough psi that the force of the car moving forward combined with the radiator fans cannot push air into the radiator/engine bay? I'm still a noob, please explain.
 
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You may have to explain this one to me, and/or provide scientific sources...

The air for the blower inside the car is drawn through the cowl below the windshield.
Air flows through the vents while moving even with the blower turned off....
It must be a high pressure area.
 
Has anyone ever seen the old cowl induction hoods on the Chevelle SS or Trans Ams? That's how they work, by drawing in low pressure air from the base of the windshield. I believe it can become a high pressure zone at higher speeds but that was my understanding of it.
 
The base of the windshield IS a high pressure zone, because the air that moved over the hood hits the windshield and has to change direction. Change in direction requires an applied force. More force equals a higher pressure. My question is, how does that air make its way back under the hood of you remove the seal? Chevy's cowl induction worked because the engine intake was placed top center toward the rear of the engine bay, so it was actually creating a vacuum at the rear/base of the hood, sucking in the pressurized air at the windshield, which needed to change direction anyway.

Our stock P5 intake draws air from the gap between the hood and top grille. A CAI draws from the wheel well. A short ram will draw from the front of the engine bay, behind the headlight. A turbo will usually draw from the front of the engine, just at the grille area; unless it is uselessly routed as a CAI to the wheel well. So there is no vacuum formed at the top of the hood. If anything, I would imagine a higher pressure area right under the hood compared to the lower engine compartment. You have all this air coming through the front grilles and it has nowhere to go except under the car or through cracks in the body panels. The air at the top of the engine has few places to go, the sides of the hood mostly, since there's no seal between the hood and fenders.
So I don't understand how removing the seal at the base of the windshield would create a vacuum effect at the top of the hood instead of allowing air flowing under the hood to escape there.


Sorry for the thread jack 😬
 
We'll need to smoke test the car...
It's the only way to know for sure...





Sorry for the thread jackassery...
 
You may have to explain this one to me, and/or provide scientific sources.
When stationery air is being pushed up across the hood and windshield by the force of the car moving forward, how does enough air start moving on its own and go backward and down through a small opening(when there is no vacuum), to create what is basically backpressure, thus creating enough psi that the force of the car moving forward combined with the radiator fans cannot push air into the radiator/engine bay? I'm still a noob, please explain.

He meant for venting. Ventilation i.e removing hot air from the engine bay, hence the comment on the vented hood. To help remove that hot air by removing the plastic scuttle panel from the base of the windscreen. This would allow hot air to move out of the engine bay as air is being sucked in via the front grille and air dam.


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How'd you make that splitter? Single piece? Molded? Glued? Welded? Thinking to make something similar myself, just wanting to know your process, how to do it easier, what to avoid, etc.

It's made from Alucobond which is a type of aluminium composite panel. Basically 2 thin layers of aluminium with fire retardant plastic sandwiched in between.

The beauty with our cars is that there are bolt holes everywhere! I removed the lower engine covers and removed the front bar and made a cardboard template which allowed me to get the mastic shape and cut out where the exhaust manifold and the sump sit as they are quite low in our cars. I also used some stainless steel brackets which are bolted through some existing front holes in the front panels.
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Once I got the basic shape it was a matter of fitting and trimming till it sat just right. Fixing it to the radiator support and the cross member was pretty straight forward too. And I cut the original lower engine covers so the sides are still in place as they have bolts in the wheel well. I just zip tied them to the splitter so they don't flap about.

Once it was all set I painted it, tested it and reinforced it with "L" shaped aluminium brackets and high tensile bolts in places that were lacking in support (sides and very front).

The thing with the protege5 is that the front bumper is on a positive angle from the front wheel arch to the front, so the hardest part was making it level. You can't attach it to the bumper like you see them do it on the YouTube channels when you search "DIY front splitter". The second hardest part is finding a suitable material long and wide enough to fill in the gap between the splitter and the bumper. If you can get long enough "L" shaped rubber then that works best as you can just screw it under the bumper and it moulds easily. But I can't find any from anywhere. Putting bends in a flat piece of rubber won't work, and I didn't want to use aluminium and rivet it to the front of the bumper. Another way would be to get a generic front lip off some other car which is squared, similar to ours. Like for an Impreza or an older civic, cut it to shape and fasten it, so it sits level.

My bumper is now only supported by the 2 top bolts, side bolts and the guard liner clips. There isn't any support underneath as access is restricted by the splitter and the splitter will absorb the impact from the bottom/ front rather than the bumper itself.

It was a fun project, it took a few days to make but I was really happy with the result. I did it all with an angle grinder to cut everything and then a sanding disc to fix up the edges.






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Is that the science? Should I stand on the roof to see if that's strong enough too?

We're talking about two completely different components here - a splitter is designed to create aerodynamic downforce, your roof is not (feel free to go stand on your roof though, if it makes you feel any better), as a matter of fact the roof skin is barely even strong enough to support itself - you will dent it if you stand on it.

A splitter works on the same concept as an airplane wing, but upside down. The area above the splitter is a high pressure area due to the air that's hitting the front bumper and backing up, where the air that's flowing smoothly under the splitter is considerably lower pressure. At higher speeds there should be considerable downforce on the splitter and anything that it's attached to, which is why most truly functional splitters have turnbuckles to help support them. If you're adding something to the front bumper cover that's capable of creating 100+ lbs of downforce at 75 mph, you really need to make sure the attachments are capable of supporting that additional force. Stick your hand out your window while driving 75 mph and feel how much force is being applied to your hand, which is considerably smaller than a splitter and doesn't have any significant pressure differential from top to bottom.

As far as the air pressure at the base of the windshield goes, here's a generic diagram showing the approximate air pressures from the car's profile view; https://www.driftworks.com/forum/threads/aerodynamic-flow-profile.58869/

Notice that the area at the base of the windshield is high pressure - manufacturers have traditionally used this location as the air intake for the vehicle interior (which is why you will have air coming out your interior vents when you're moving even if you don't have the fan on). This also means that removing the seal from the rear of the hood will allow an additional escape route for that high pressure air to go, namely right into the rear of the engine compartment. The engine compartment needs to have positive airflow through it from the front of the vehicle so that the radiator and a/c condenser can function properly. If you increase the pressure in the engine compartment by removing the rear seal then it will be harder for air to enter through the front of the vehicle, which means less airflow through the radiator and condenser, and less cooling overall. An easy way to test this out would be to tape some short pieces of yarn to the back edge of the hood, remove the rear hood seal, and drive the vehicle. The yarn will show which direction the air is flowing, and it will be into the engine compartment. This is the reason there's a seal there in the first place. As previously noted, this is the idea behind the cowl induction hoods found on classic muscle cars and drag race vehicles which take the engine's intake air from the high pressure area at the base of the windshield.

The OP noted that his future plans included the possibility of time-attack, which would generally indicate some driving at high speeds. His splitter looks like it will be pretty effective, enough so that it might tear itself off the car, pull the bumper cover off, or do other sorts of damage when the downforce exceeds the strength of it's mounting. Standing on it to make sure it won't fail is probably a better idea than finding out in the middle of a track session.

And BTW, yes, this is the science.
 
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He meant for venting. Ventilation i.e removing hot air from the engine bay, hence the comment on the vented hood. To help remove that hot air by removing the plastic scuttle panel from the base of the windscreen. This would allow hot air to move out of the engine bay as air is being sucked in via the front grille and air dam.


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I got that part. Just didn't understand Ryan's post. How, when removing the seal at the base of the windshield, pressurized air will be forced back down and backward into the engine bay without a vacuum. Logically, you'd think the air would only go up or across(sideways) the windshield, seeing how that is the path of least resistance compared to down and in the opposite direction it had been flowing until that point.
 
It's made from Alucobond which is a type of aluminium composite panel. Basically 2 thin layers of aluminium with fire retardant plastic sandwiched in between.

The beauty with our cars is that there are bolt holes everywhere! I removed the lower engine covers and removed the front bar and made a cardboard template which allowed me to get the mastic shape and cut out where the exhaust manifold and the sump sit as they are quite low in our cars. I also used some stainless steel brackets which are bolted through some existing front holes in the front panels.
1bad3f8d30d16891a326ca8a56df5076.jpg
69c68d699d268c8276770737b2f73dcb.jpg
3abebdd52323f3c01ffb28c8b2bdeaac.jpg
385b34a4d707564903c22ba424f70fb2.jpg


Once I got the basic shape it was a matter of fitting and trimming till it sat just right. Fixing it to the radiator support and the cross member was pretty straight forward too. And I cut the original lower engine covers so the sides are still in place as they have bolts in the wheel well. I just zip tied them to the splitter so they don't flap about.

Once it was all set I painted it, tested it and reinforced it with "L" shaped aluminium brackets and high tensile bolts in places that were lacking in support (sides and very front).

The thing with the protege5 is that the front bumper is on a positive angle from the front wheel arch to the front, so the hardest part was making it level. You can't attach it to the bumper like you see them do it on the YouTube channels when you search "DIY front splitter". The second hardest part is finding a suitable material long and wide enough to fill in the gap between the splitter and the bumper. If you can get long enough "L" shaped rubber then that works best as you can just screw it under the bumper and it moulds easily. But I can't find any from anywhere. Putting bends in a flat piece of rubber won't work, and I didn't want to use aluminium and rivet it to the front of the bumper. Another way would be to get a generic front lip off some other car which is squared, similar to ours. Like for an Impreza or an older civic, cut it to shape and fasten it, so it sits level.

My bumper is now only supported by the 2 top bolts, side bolts and the guard liner clips. There isn't any support underneath as access is restricted by the splitter and the splitter will absorb the impact from the bottom/ front rather than the bumper itself.

It was a fun project, it took a few days to make but I was really happy with the result. I did it all with an angle grinder to cut everything and then a sanding disc to fix up the edges.






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Nice. I will likely use this idea when I make mine. I would love to have a full underbody panel to streamline airflow

Does that Alucobond flex any? Can you mold it? Working on a diffuser and was looking for something to make it out of that didn't include cardboard lol
 
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