Sound reduction on 2017?

skinto

Member
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CX5
I'm getting the audio system on my 2017 done, and the installer is pushing Dynamat for the doors... I've seen it do a nice job on older cars, but the 2017 doors seem pretty quiet to me (compared to the 2016). Does anyone with a 2017 and experience with noise reduction materials think it could benefit from Dynamat, or is it really not needed with the new NVH improvements?
 
I'm getting the audio system on my 2017 done, and the installer is pushing Dynamat for the doors... I've seen it do a nice job on older cars, but the 2017 doors seem pretty quiet to me (compared to the 2016). Does anyone with a 2017 and experience with noise reduction materials think it could benefit from Dynamat, or is it really not needed with the new NVH improvements?

On a 2017?.....not worth it.
 
I'm getting the audio system on my 2017 done, and the installer is pushing Dynamat for the doors... I've seen it do a nice job on older cars, but the 2017 doors seem pretty quiet to me (compared to the 2016). Does anyone with a 2017 and experience with noise reduction materials think it could benefit from Dynamat, or is it really not needed with the new NVH improvements?

I've no experience on adding noise reduction material, but the 2017 is pretty refined unless under hard acceleration. Even then, it's not obnoxious.

How much is the cost of install for the noise reduction material, out of interest?


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dynamat helps reduce vibration in panels that can be caused with upgraded speakers.
I use quite a bit of it in my RX8 but mainly in the areas of the trunk and rear fenders where the subwoofers are.

Unless you're adding a lot of bass, it's probably not necessary.
 
That's a tough one. There is sound that creeps into the car from various places but I don't necessarily think it's coming from the doors. If I had to guess, I'd say it's from the rear windows which aren't double paned glass like the front windows are.
 
I'm getting the audio system on my 2017 done, and the installer is pushing Dynamat for the doors...

You are correct. Your installer is pushing the Dynamat because it is a (huge) money maker for him/her. Don't get me wrong, sound deadeners like Dynamat, Boommat, Soundskins, Second Skin Audio, and all other similar materials do have a positive effect with reducing panel resonance and reduce excess vibrations by adding mass to the panel/surface they are mounted to....but Dynamat is extremely over-priced and is in most cases a high profit item; much like engine/fuel system cleaning treatments that your mechanic might recommend.

So, do it if you feel you want your installer to apply the sound deadener while he/she has the door panels removed, but be sure to ask how much they are planning to use and ask where they are going to put it. A sound deadener only needs to occupy about 25-30% of the panel it is being applied to in order to achieve the best result. The amount of total material is dependent on the thickness of the material being applied. Any higher application of the deadener is overkill and a waste because above a certain point the return on effectiveness is far less than the material being applied and you are just losing more money. Sure, it might make you feel warm and fuzzy, as more is better, but using the right amount in the right location(s) will give you the same result and save you money at the same time.

If it were me and I was applying the deaderner in my garage, I would put about an 10" square directly behind the speaker hole on the outer door skin...or an anechoic speaker pad from secondskinaudio.com

Next, I would try to surround the speaker hole on the inner door skin about 3" or so from the edge of the speaker and then possibly a 10-12" square piece directly in the center of the inner door skin.

Finally, I would try to follow that up with placing a similar volume of deadener material on the actual plastic door card panel, possibly close to the speaker location and then in other strategic locations to reduce the door card panel resonance.

Oh, one more place I would put sound deadener is on the roof, in a significant amount as there is none and I have a non-sunroof Touring. Rain drops sound like a hammer hitting a trash can lid.

Yes, there are lots of installer videos that show entire doors, floors, and roofs being covered, but that usually for vehicles used in competitions and IMHO is a waste.

Don't forget, there are all kinds of products out there reduce vibrations and reduce actual noise and it is really EASY to go overboard on all of that stuff. Best of luck on your install.
 
You are correct. Your installer is pushing the Dynamat because it is a (huge) money maker for him/her. Don't get me wrong, sound deadeners like Dynamat, Boommat, Soundskins, Second Skin Audio, and all other similar materials do have a positive effect with reducing panel resonance and reduce excess vibrations by adding mass to the panel/surface they are mounted to....but Dynamat is extremely over-priced and is in most cases a high profit item; much like engine/fuel system cleaning treatments that your mechanic might recommend.

So, do it if you feel you want your installer to apply the sound deadener while he/she has the door panels removed, but be sure to ask how much they are planning to use and ask where they are going to put it. A sound deadener only needs to occupy about 25-30% of the panel it is being applied to in order to achieve the best result. The amount of total material is dependent on the thickness of the material being applied. Any higher application of the deadener is overkill and a waste because above a certain point the return on effectiveness is far less than the material being applied and you are just losing more money. Sure, it might make you feel warm and fuzzy, as more is better, but using the right amount in the right location(s) will give you the same result and save you money at the same time.

If it were me and I was applying the deaderner in my garage, I would put about an 10" square directly behind the speaker hole on the outer door skin...or an anechoic speaker pad from secondskinaudio.com

Next, I would try to surround the speaker hole on the inner door skin about 3" or so from the edge of the speaker and then possibly a 10-12" square piece directly in the center of the inner door skin.

Finally, I would try to follow that up with placing a similar volume of deadener material on the actual plastic door card panel, possibly close to the speaker location and then in other strategic locations to reduce the door card panel resonance.

Oh, one more place I would put sound deadener is on the roof, in a significant amount as there is none and I have a non-sunroof Touring. Rain drops sound like a hammer hitting a trash can lid.

Yes, there are lots of installer videos that show entire doors, floors, and roofs being covered, but that usually for vehicles used in competitions and IMHO is a waste.

Don't forget, there are all kinds of products out there reduce vibrations and reduce actual noise and it is really EASY to go overboard on all of that stuff. Best of luck on your install.

If you are basing your 25-30% of your panel covered on stock speakers, then you are correct. However the TS said he is having his audio system redone so I will presume the installer would require a better drivers that's is more efficient in reproducing a broader band of frequencies. Hence probably the need for a bigger and or thicker area and coverage.

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If you are basing your 25-30% of your panel covered on stock speakers, then you are correct. However the TS said he is having his audio system redone so I will presume the installer would require a better drivers that's is more efficient in reproducing a broader band of frequencies. Hence probably the need for a bigger and or thicker area and coverage.

True, so the amount of deadener and/or mass loaded vinyl will need to be more. The trick is how much more? I've seen many posts saying the doors on the CX-5s are rather tinny and that they require an "extra" amount of deadener to really bring down their resonance. I wonder if a 50% coverage isn't in order; maybe three square feet on each door, or 5-6 if you include the outer skin to in that calculation. Would you do the plastic door panel too, especially near the speaker location?

I know it isn't my money, but I would apply as much as the budget allows if going above and beyond the stock system, but still try to keep excess in check. Again, the strategic application of the Dynamat will make a little go a long way.
 
True, so the amount of deadener and/or mass loaded vinyl will need to be more. The trick is how much more? I've seen many posts saying the doors on the CX-5s are rather tinny and that they require an "extra" amount of deadener to really bring down their resonance. I wonder if a 50% coverage isn't in order; maybe three square feet on each door, or 5-6 if you include the outer skin to in that calculation. Would you do the plastic door panel too, especially near the speaker location?

I know it isn't my money, but I would apply as much as the budget allows if going above and beyond the stock system, but still try to keep excess in check. Again, the strategic application of the Dynamat will make a little go a long way.

Correct. Maybe the TS can have the woofers installed, test the system and see where it would resonate the most. But most pro installers can know that just by knocking on the panels. The plastic panels? I would rather cover the "holes" of the inner frame with deadening materials than apply it on the plastic panels. Corners? Not required.

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Instead of creating another thread, maybe the TS could update us as to the sizes of the speakers he used on his 2017 CX-5 in different locations. That would serve as a very good reference for us because instead of opening the panels just to find out the size, we can opt to buy the drivers immediately.


And does anyone know the location of the amp on the Bose 2017 ?
 
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