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Thread: really unsure..

  1. #31
    long time mazda owner d0sitmatr's Avatar

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    well, believe it or not, I think I have it narrowed down.
    just under a year ago, I replaced my alternator. I did it myself since Ive done a couple dozen over the years on various cars Ive owned. however, I wasnt prepared for how much a PiTA this one is... I was able to get it done from the top, got it snugged up good, and even since have tightened the belt on 2 occasions. and so this was why I didnt bother with consideration of the Alt, however, yesterday when I got in my car and started it, the alt belt started screaming for a few seconds, and not like a little squeek, a very loud, long squeel.

    so after doing some reading, Ive come to the conclusion that either the belt is loose again, or just plain bad (it was replaced with alt)
    I do hope it isnt a bad Alt, its a damn Bosche... which means, at least they will replace it free, but I'll still have to cover shipping...

    Im going by a shop later this week to let them look at it and see which issue it is (keeping my fingers crossed...)

  2. #32
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Apparently the easiest way to get it out of the engine bay is to remove the bolts from the joint shaft and pull it out of the transmission a tiny bit.
    That allows the axle to wobble out of the way just enough to get the alternator out and you won't lose your tranny oil or damage your oil seal.

    (I'm posting a diagram to practice using Tapatalk...)

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    Last edited by pcb; 07-03-2017 at 10:41 AM.
    The Diagram Dude

  3. #33
    Certified Mazda Tech hornsfan10609's Avatar

    2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2

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    I have never had to remove the axle to do an alternator. It is tricky to get it out, but it can be done without removing anything but the strut tower brace and the cruise control unit if you have it.
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  4. #34
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by hornsfan10609 View Post
    I have never had to remove the axle to do an alternator. It is tricky to get it out, but it can be done without removing anything but the strut tower brace and the cruise control unit if you have it.
    From the bottom... You don't remove the axle,... Just wobble it out of the way just enough to wiggle the alternator past it...


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  5. #35
    ......................... i12drivemyMP5's Avatar
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    From the top it can be wiggled out by removing the cruise control unit. Seems easier than messing with axles to me...........and it is less time under the car.

  6. #36
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by i12drivemyMP5 View Post
    From the top it can be wiggled out by removing the cruise control unit. Seems easier than messing with axles to me...........and it is less time under the car.
    I've never removed an alternator... I'm just going by what I've read...

    On my car specifically, I'd worry about a bunch of rusty bits and pieces breaking if I tried it from the top ???

    Bigger bolts are less inclined to snap.

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  7. #37
    long time mazda owner d0sitmatr's Avatar

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    I got it out from the top, like mentioned, it is a major pain...
    I had to push the CC lines out of the way, but also my AC lines had to be pushed aside as they ran literally right through the opening.
    the belt doesnt really seem too loose, but I dont really know how much tension there should be, so I might just be playing it safe and not tightening it down enough from the start. just really hoping it isnt a bad alternator, that would kind of ruin my month :/
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  8. #38
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    This is what the service manual says...



    https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...r-Belt-Tension

  9. #39
    long time mazda owner d0sitmatr's Avatar

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    wow, again, sorry for not replying sooner. having to deal with before and after Irma (I was right in its most damaged path) and dealing with issues revolving around my wifes car... I have also been doing little things trying to diagnose this problem.
    I think I have the cutting out issue resolved, it seems my amp+ wire had gotten rubbed through and was hitting the frame of the car, after removing the fuse for it, a few issues have all but disappeared.
    that said, now the battery (not even 2 yrs old) wont stay charged. it seems good, still has plenty of fluid and charges quickly with both a electric charger or jumping from another car.
    also, when trickle charging, I can hear a buzz coming from the radio, not the speakers, from the actual head unit.
    when it comes to electric, I truly have 0 knowledge as it seems to be my nemesis in al aspects of life (Im the person who can turn all breakers off in a house to install a ceiling fan and still get shocked....)
    anyways, with so much going on pre/after Irma, there really hasnt been much time to deal with my car.
    I did read codes again and got p00031 and p00037, both related to a sensor in the exhaust.

    I will be taking it to a shop soon, since things are finally calming down here, but any info I cna take with me would be greatly appreciated.
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  10. #40
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    It sounds like you have a power drain and I would suspect the head unit...
    There is always power to the stereo so it will remember preset stations and the set time but that should be less than 20 milliamps.

    You could disconnect your negative battery cable and hook up an ammeter between the battery terminal and the battery cable.



    Your P0031 code is for the heater on your front O2 sensor and the P0037 code is for the heater for the rear 02 sensor.
    It seems weird that both heaters went out at the same time but a broken or shorted wire going to the O2 sensor will throw those codes as well.
    That leads back to a wiring problem again.
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  11. #41
    long time mazda owner d0sitmatr's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by pcb View Post

    Your P0031 code is for the heater on your front O2 sensor and the P0037 code is for the heater for the rear 02 sensor.
    It seems weird that both heaters went out at the same time but a broken or shorted wire going to the O2 sensor will throw those codes as well.
    That leads back to a wiring problem again.
    that is my fear as well, especially after having both headlamp bulbs blow within a few days of install, at the same time as near as I can tell.
    the radio came with the car so I have no idea of how it was installed. I did, however, add in some crossover's for the speakers (both F and R) as well as added some tweeters to the rear. Im not a bass guy, but I do enjoy a full spectrum of audio, so there was a small 400w amp powering a 10 in the back
    Ill see if I can get the read on the - tomorrow. thank you for the diagram, it will help (I hope)
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  12. #42
    long time mazda owner d0sitmatr's Avatar

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    ok, so, I know its been a long time, I apologize for that.
    suffice to say, quite a bit has happened since my last post as I lost my mother 4 days after
    I have, however, been able to resolve the issue (I hope !)

    Im going to try and break it down, but this is an "how I understand it" post, so I may make a mistake.

    here is the series of events as I understand it, my amp + line got rubbed through a little and was grounding out against the frame, not enough to kill power, but it was enough to cause surges and ebbs to the point of damaging the Alternator, which in turn put more pressure on the battery. then it became a cascade effect, the battery would require more charging from a failing alt. eventually, the alt went completely bad, so I replaced it. but the damage to the battery was already done, so now with a new alt trying to charge a battery that literally cant be charged to capacity, putting a lot more strain on the alt (which Ive read are pretty weak to begin with) the only good thing is I got a new, not remanned, Bosche
    so all that seems straight forward, now comes the tricky part, somewhere along the lines of the dual failures, several fuses got popped all at once, both in cabin and engine bay... but... somehow, everything other than headlamps still worked... ? my mechanic still cant figure that one out, according to him, the windows/locks shouldnt have worked as well as blower/ac and alarm. but, they did. only thing that was actually affected was headlamps and it seems (unknown to me) tail lamps also didnt work, but since I couldnt drive at night for fear of my lights going out, it was sort of a moot point since brake lights did work.

    so, all this to find out my battery (just over 1 yr old when things started happening) had a bad cell and several fuses (and 1 relay, forgot bout that) got taken out in the crossfire between my alt and my batt.

    as of writing this, the car starts and runs excellent and everything, including headlamps, work
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  13. #43
    long time mazda owner d0sitmatr's Avatar

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    so now Im back to no start.
    but we are pretty certain we have it narrowed down to 1 of 2 things, bad ignition or bad wiring for an aftermarket alarm.

    the car started and I was able to drive around the neighborhood for 15-20 mins (bad tires so didnt want to drive too far from home or too fast). when I got home, I started putting some things back together, which included the panel around the cabin fuse box. which I also had to move the wires for the alarm to get them tucked under said panel, after which, the car refused to even attempt to start. turn the key, plenty of juice, but as soon as I hit start click and no juice.

    so my mechanic is coming by Sunday and we are going to completely go over as much electrical as we can without tearing into the dash.
    will update then.
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