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Thread: Engine Harness and Starter Issues

  1. #46
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by naguilar View Post
    Here is a picture of what I am talking about. What do you think?

    o
    I suppose if the plastic notch where the tab from the ignition tumbler mates with it, is worn, there could be enough slop that the ignition switch won't rotate enough to engage start mode ????

    The tab in the video looks quite a bit smaller than the opening in the switch...

    But I would still suspect some intermittent issues before your engine blew.

    Remember, the best way to know for sure is to test for power and trace it's path.
    It doesn't have to be that difficult.

    You can use a voltmeter and ground the negative probe somewhere with an alligator clip.
    Then, with the sharp end of the red probe, you can poke right into the wire, through the insulation, to get a reading on any particular wire an inch or few back from the connector where the wires are more accessible.

    If you're set to voltage you should see 12 V on the start wire and see it switching (0 V- 12 V) as you turn the key from "run" to "start" position. Then do the same thing at the TR switch.

  2. #47
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    I found this, if you want to test your switch...

    (this is a continuity test so it is done with your multimeter set to ohms and the battery disconnected...
    My way of testing is done with everything connected and tracing the voltage,.. which is a bit more comprehensive because it doesn't just test the switch, it tests to make sure the power is getting to and then through the switch...)

    Last edited by pcb; 05-11-2017 at 07:55 AM.

  3. #48
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Did you ever get your car to start by turning the key ?!!?

  4. #49
    Registered Member naguilar's Avatar

    2003 Sunlight Silver Mazda Protegé5

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    I have put the project on a brief hold while I gather more information on the issue. Found that the old MAF was water damaged. Replaced it with a good unit.

    Oh...and for the unintended acceleration...found that the throttle body stays partially opened after accelerator is pressed. Thankfully the old one is in great shape.

    Going by the junkyard tomorrow to get a better starter harness that has good grounds and both battery terminals.

    Gut is telling me the starter may be bad. I read in other forums that a clicking sound when turning the key-which the car is showing-means power is getting from the ignition switch to the starter.


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  5. #50
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by naguilar View Post
    ...Gut is telling me the starter may be bad...
    But if the starter cranks when jumpered from the fusebox it should be good ???



    Unless it gets better B+ 12V from the fuse box instead of from ignition>TR switch>starter motor ?!

    Check the connector going into the starter motor (connector #2) for +12V with the key turned to start...


  6. #51
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    When a starter motor gets old and starts to crap out, the solenoid starts to stick and not engage the motor when 12V is supplied to connector #2...

    If you apply +12V and the starter kicks in, it should be good...

  7. #52
    Registered Member naguilar's Avatar

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    Hey @pcb. Back with a status update. Managed to get a pristine starter harness for the P5 at the wrecker's today for a steal. $10 for the whole thing.



    The pieces of the puzzle are beginning to come together. Found this loose today.



    The car was in 2nd gear the whole time!!!! Agh...so much for hiring a "competent" mechanic. After taking the intake manifold off today I feel more confident about working on the car.

    The only hard part in the job was that stupid bracket. It was a pain to get off with just a ratchet.

    The reason I found out about the shifter was I put in reverse and then park today. When I took the ebrake off the car was still rolling down.

    The no crank no start is starting to make better sense now...what is your opinion?




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  8. #53
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by naguilar View Post

    The pieces of the puzzle are beginning to come together. Found this loose today.



    The car was in 2nd gear the whole time!!!!

    The reason I found out about the shifter was I put in reverse and then park today. When I took the ebrake off the car was still rolling down.

    The no crank no start is starting to make better sense now...what is your opinion?
    I don't know what that is a picture of but if your shift mechanism wasn't hooked up then it's very possible that your TR switch was never in P or N to allow for a start.

    The harness may not be the problem... You may just need to properly be in P or N....

  9. #54
    Registered Member naguilar's Avatar

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    That is the shifter linkage that attaches to the shifter. The other end by the TR switch was not tampered with.

    Going to swap starter harness Saturday morning and see how it goes...


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  10. #55
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    If your shifter linkage was not hooked up and the car was always in 2nd gear then the TR switch would also always be in 2nd.

    Your harness may be fine...

    If you can now put your car in P or N then it may start for you.. You could just try it to see before replacing the harness.

  11. #56
    Registered Member naguilar's Avatar

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    Long needed update @pcb. Work has picked up recently and has put the task on hold. Got the car together today (albeit I may need to check good grounds).

    Took the opportunity to clean the intake manifold, put new gaskets, and clean injector o-rings.

    Starter and ignition switch are working. Car now has a crank no start.

    Found power window fuse to be in incorrect location. Seemed odd that power windows were not working.

    Going to check timing belt job soon. Engine may be off time per uncle's hypothesis.


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  12. #57
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by naguilar View Post
    Starter and ignition switch are working. Car now has a crank no start....
    You did get the car running before.. It's probably something you worked on since then.

    You might be out of gas... Your fuel light is on.

  13. #58
    Registered Member naguilar's Avatar

    2003 Sunlight Silver Mazda Protegé5

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    After getting some gas and filling with coolant the car is running...somewhat. The radiator fan isn't kicking on. Just filled with coolant. Any tips @pcb??

    I have the AC/PS belt disconnected since the compressor does not have refrigerant. Don't want to risk burning it up.

    I have a video with an update.


    https://youtu.be/U7ctYg8pVPY



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  14. #59
    The Diagram Dude pcb's Avatar

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    The rad fan doesn't come on until the coolant reaches a certain temperature... You may not have gotten it hot enough ??
    Perhaps the ECU shut things down due to the lack of an AC pump ??

    If your temp gauge rises above the halfway mark, the fan should be on.

    Maybe get this kit and do a recharge... $30-$60 US.
    It's made from propane so your not gonna wreck the ozone layer with CFC's...

    It sounds like you're on the right track and close to mobile but your engine sounds kinda "clattery/rough/clangy"
    Coulda just been the video sound ???

  15. #60
    Registered Member naguilar's Avatar

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    I hear the sound coming from the timing belt. Do you think it could be a pulley? The guy who did the job did not change the tensioner pulley and spring so I will have to look into that. When it cranks it doesn't sound like the 03 we have.


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