OK... So I've been thinking of a way to systematically diagnose your wiring...
With the help of your mechanic or family member,... With everything connected, including the battery and your wheels in the air on jack stands.,... check for +12 V at both the H and B terminals of your TR switch while your key is held at start position.
You can probe the back of the connector while it is plugged in. (remember, the terminal order will be mirror image from the back of the connector, check your color codes on the wires coming from it)
Be careful of course, the starter may just decide to kick in...
If you are getting +12 V at both terminals, it proves that power is getting to the TR switch.... And it would also be getting to the PCM (ECU) and cruise control because it feeds both of them on it's way to the TR switch.
(according to the wiring diagrams)
You probably are getting +12 V through because your ECU (PCM) was happy enough to allow your car to start and run.
Then, unplug the TR switch and check both the H and B terminals of the connector to see which one is +12 V with the key held at the start position... That is the power feed into the switch.
Then cut the other wire (the switch output) about two inches back and splice in a new piece of wire and run it straight to the starter.
EDIT... I forgot about this...