Apparently there is two types of brakes and type "B" doesn't have springs.
I'm thinking maybe type "B" is for a regular protg ?? The manual also covers drum brakes which no P5 has.
Working on the rust again...
- Thread starter pcb
- Start date
Apparently there is two types of brakes and type "B" doesn't have springs.
I'm thinking maybe type "B" is for a regular protg ?? The manual also covers drum brakes which no P5 has.
I used anti-seize.... I caked it everywhere... The new rotors too, not the friction surface of course but everywhere else. The mating surface on the wheels too.... I no longer have to use a sledgehammer to break the wheels free when I swap summer/winter wheels.
That's what I figured you meant,... Kinda wobble it in, but apparently you can "screw" our rear pistons in...
I'm not gonna try that unless the adjusters don't work... I don't want to risk damaging the pistons. But I don't want to replace the calipers... Those rear ones are expensive and a lot of the rebuilds have broken adjusters.
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- Mazda, Protege5
this is the best technique i've seen... use the old brake pad and a $3 C-clamp
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdXeOUr9vz8
Good idea.... I like how he did the brake job in ten minutes, I spent the whole day fartin around.
I got to the rears today and had success.
They were lookin fricken nasty.
I removed the splash shield covering the fuel fill pipe so I could hose it down with undercoating spray.
This is why I don't like bed liner coatings and rubberized coatings... I hides and traps moisture and rust and you don't even know it's there.
The rust gets under it and creeps for inches.
The same area after scraping.
The brake piston was looking nasty... What a mess...
I decided to do my best at refurbishing it because I really didn't wanna buy a new caliper.
I carefully pushed the brake pedal to push the piston out further so I could scrape the rust off.
I couldn't remove the caliper because there was no way the bleeder screw was going to come off. So I rotated the piston to scrape all around it.
They were lookin fricken nasty.
I removed the splash shield covering the fuel fill pipe so I could hose it down with undercoating spray.
This is why I don't like bed liner coatings and rubberized coatings... I hides and traps moisture and rust and you don't even know it's there.
The rust gets under it and creeps for inches.
The same area after scraping.
The brake piston was looking nasty... What a mess...
I decided to do my best at refurbishing it because I really didn't wanna buy a new caliper.
I carefully pushed the brake pedal to push the piston out further so I could scrape the rust off.
I couldn't remove the caliper because there was no way the bleeder screw was going to come off. So I rotated the piston to scrape all around it.
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Looks a lot better now...
I managed to push the piston back in till it hit the adjuster screw then just screwed the piston back in.
Undercoating on the dust shield before it rots right off.
I like this stuff... Synthetic, rubber safe and $5 a can on sale.
I get oil sprayed in two days...
Anti-seize on the hub...
And the rotor...
Had to cleanup the slider pins... I was going to get new ones but it would have come to $35 for all 8...
Filled the boot with spray... Figured what the hell...
Installed the new boots...
I'm sure the bleeder screws would break off..
Had to use my SST (big c-clamp)...
The pin was greased and trapped air like a syringe... Had to clamp it pretty hard before it finally let the air escape.
It fit..
I sprayed the whole area... It looks a lot better...
Cleaned up the wheel surface...
Passenger side looked way better..
Oiled it anyway...
I managed to push the piston back in till it hit the adjuster screw then just screwed the piston back in.
Undercoating on the dust shield before it rots right off.
I like this stuff... Synthetic, rubber safe and $5 a can on sale.
I get oil sprayed in two days...
Anti-seize on the hub...
And the rotor...
Had to cleanup the slider pins... I was going to get new ones but it would have come to $35 for all 8...
Filled the boot with spray... Figured what the hell...
Installed the new boots...
I'm sure the bleeder screws would break off..
Had to use my SST (big c-clamp)...
The pin was greased and trapped air like a syringe... Had to clamp it pretty hard before it finally let the air escape.
It fit..
I sprayed the whole area... It looks a lot better...
Cleaned up the wheel surface...
Passenger side looked way better..
Oiled it anyway...
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I didn't touch the adjuster screws at all and went to adjust them by holding the brake on while pumping the P-brake.
It didn't seem to work so I crawled under and adjusted the adjuster screws.
I realized pumping the P-brake was probably working but you probably have to do it 1000 times or something.... My arm was getting tired.
So,... Keep in mind that if your adjuster screws are broken, you can probably screw in the pistons then adjust them with the P-brake.
The boot around the piston was kinda stuck and it looked like it was going to rip.... I broke it free with a dental pick then oiled it and it would spin.
It didn't seem to work so I crawled under and adjusted the adjuster screws.
I realized pumping the P-brake was probably working but you probably have to do it 1000 times or something.... My arm was getting tired.
So,... Keep in mind that if your adjuster screws are broken, you can probably screw in the pistons then adjust them with the P-brake.
The boot around the piston was kinda stuck and it looked like it was going to rip.... I broke it free with a dental pick then oiled it and it would spin.
Yea... that certainly occurred to me.
I figure the oil didn't get past the seal on the bottom of the piston. The brakes feel fine and hold pressure.
I figure if anything, the brake fluid would leak into the oil because of the pressure.
The oil is synthetic as well and won't eat or dissolve rubber.
I figure it will start to leak of it does fail and not some catastrophic failure.
I got my car under coated and it looks a lot better...
It's still a rusty turd though...
This is up under my rear bumper...
Below the rear doors...
Engine bay doesn't look too bad...
And just an FYI for any of you dealing with rust...
There's a hidden spot that likes to rust out. It's at the top of the strut tower towards the fender. It's really thin metal (not structural I guess) that rusts away then opens up a pocket area in the fender... It fills up with dirt and salty crap because it's right above the tire then it sits in there and rots.
Reach in above your front wheels and up into the strut tower to find it.
It's under here... I drilled an extra hole to spray my stuff through.
It's still a rusty turd though...
This is up under my rear bumper...
Below the rear doors...
Engine bay doesn't look too bad...
And just an FYI for any of you dealing with rust...
There's a hidden spot that likes to rust out. It's at the top of the strut tower towards the fender. It's really thin metal (not structural I guess) that rusts away then opens up a pocket area in the fender... It fills up with dirt and salty crap because it's right above the tire then it sits in there and rots.
Reach in above your front wheels and up into the strut tower to find it.
It's under here... I drilled an extra hole to spray my stuff through.
