Working on the rust again...

P

pcb

The Diagram Dude
:
2002 MP5
I decided to crawl under my car and scrape a bunch of crap off before I take it in for it's annual undercoating.

What a dirty nasty job...














Then I crawled under with the hose and washed it off as best as I could....
Soaking wet laying in a puddle covered in dirt, sand and greasy crud... Real fun...
 
all of that makes me sad. couldn't you use POR15 or something similar on the entire underside?
 
323 said:
all of that makes me sad. couldn't you use POR15 or something similar on the entire underside?
Click to expand...

At this point I don't think it would work very good... The por15 needs to be applied to a clean surface and that just isn't really possible.

I go to Krown every year and their stuff is really good.
It's a thin synthetic oil that seeps into the cracks and crevices. They use a variety of wands up to 4 feet long and spray the pillars and frame through holes they drill. It comes out as a fog and completely coats the insides of everything.

I believe if the stuff isn't runny then it isn't gonna work.
 
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I decided to do pads and rotors even though there was obviously nothing wrong with the old ones !!!...



I got the full kit from rock auto for $200 all in,... 4 rotors 4 sets of pads, 2 hardware kits, shipping, taxes, duty, Canadian dollars.






















I had to sand of the rust from the flange... It was bubbled up pretty bad.

















I had to clamp the pads... The springs were flinging them off into the dirt.





I had to use my SST (specialty shop tool)...





Fricken boot had a cut in it... It probably caught the edge of the pad when I rotated it in... I squirted some oil in and called it fixed.. (synthetic, rubber safe)














I still have to do the rears and get it in for undercoating on a dry day this coming week...
 
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1d1347d77321b89eee7984fceea565e6.jpg

That is the tool you should have used!
I highly suggest you get a new caliper or rebuild kit.
 
Corphish said:
I highly suggest you get a new caliper or rebuild kit.
Click to expand...

Yea that would be the best thing to do...
The rebuild kit would come to about $20 all in.

It won't really be problem until I replace the pads again.
If it rusts the piston won't push back into the bore.

If my car wasn't such a rusty turd I wouldn't hesitate from doing it... I hate putting $20 parts on a two dollar car.
 
i12drivemyMP5 said:
This confuses me.......
Click to expand...

Last time my boot ripped the brakes worked fine but the exposed metal of the piston that pushed out of the bore rusted then the piston wouldn't push back in.

It's bad form but I might just wait until it seizes then replace it.

There's a good chance the bleeder screw will break off if I replace the boot, then try to bleed them..., then I have to get a new caliper anyway.
 
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Honestly rebuilding it is almost never worth it! I'd rather buy a new caliper anyway!
 
The rubber boot sticks out farther than the piston and catches on the edge of the pads when you rotate the caliper down...
This is the second time I've done that.

I grease my slider pins twice a year when I change out my wheels so I must have caught that edge again last time I greased them.

The cut isn't too bad and is actually kinda pinched closed by the folds of the seal.
The piston pushed in easily to install my new pads so it's not all rusted up... Yet...
 
I found a picture of my last caliper.. Same cut boot in the same damn spot.
That piston wouldn't push back in...

 
I for one applaud your SST, I am curious regarding the springs you have bridging your retainer clips. The set of replacment pads I got from Napa had the retainer clips but no springs. *Shrugs*

I also wire brushed off where you sanded ( same effect) afterwards I applied a liberal amount of jet-lube kopr-kote in hopes of slowing the rust rot. Heh, not sure if that's going to help but couldn't not try.
 
what a mess. maybe its sacrilegious to say this here, but i think if that were my car i'd have to go with a can of gasoline and a match method. I bought a 4Runner a few years back for $500 that had a bad head and sat for about 5 years and it wasn't nearly that bad... Some surface/cosmetic stuff (bumper, running boards, etc) but the frame/chassis was clean as a whistle.
 
What confused me is based on the amount of rust is, by the time those pads wear there won't be a car left. Saddens me to see what salt does to cars. I would be so dejected even looking under there much less having to wirebrush and PB Blast everything I wanted to take apart. I do feel for having to try to keep something functional in that kind of environment.

This is my SST that I do brake jobs with................

Z0ywp_fo5oy.JPG
 
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horseflesh said:
I for one applaud your SST, I am curious regarding the springs you have bridging your retainer clips. The set of replacment pads I got from Napa had the retainer clips but no springs. *Shrugs* ...
Click to expand...
I didn't think my stuff was coming with clips or springs so I ordered the hardware kit along with it... I ended up with two kits.
It didn't come with the rubber boots though which I wanted to replace.
The hardware kit for the rears came with everything... Including boots and the plastic cover for the slider pin.
 
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i12drivemyMP5 said:
What confused me is based on the amount of rust is, by the time those pads wear there won't be a car left....]
Click to expand...

That's why I don't want to spend too much money to keep it going... I don't know how much life is left in the car regardless of what I do....
 
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If you're gentle enough you can sometimes just rotating the piston inside the caliper and it will automatically just drop to open. I worked at a brake shop so I have the correct tool but I spent $20 one time and used it over 100!
 
Apparently you can rotate the pistons on our rear calipers to retract them.
I remember some guy didn't know about the adjustment screw and managed to turn them in.

We'll see how my rear ones work out. Those adjustment screws love to fail and not retract the piston.
 
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