2017 Tow Hitch

So I picked up the trailer hitch and wiring harness from etrailers, but I'm having a terrible time finding someone to actually install it. I've called a few mechanics and no one has even agreed to take a look at it on the phone. I know a lot of people have installed the hitches themselves, but the idea of taking apart my exhaust with zero prior experience is pretty daunting. Am I giving mechanics the wrong impression in asking for someone to install a trailer hitch and wiring harness?
 
Anybody can do this, I installed two last weekend. Much easier if you are two, one to hold the hitch to start the bolts, other than that there is nothing to fear from trying it. etrailer video has everything you need to know.
 
So I picked up the trailer hitch and wiring harness from etrailers, but I'm having a terrible time finding someone to actually install it. I've called a few mechanics and no one has even agreed to take a look at it on the phone. I know a lot of people have installed the hitches themselves, but the idea of taking apart my exhaust with zero prior experience is pretty daunting. Am I giving mechanics the wrong impression in asking for someone to install a trailer hitch and wiring harness?

You don't have to take apart the exhaust. You just lower it by removing 4 rubber hangers on the sides of the muffler. Lower it 18" or so, then install the hitch, then raise it back up. Most mechanics may not want to do the wiring though.
 
I installed the DrawTite on Thursday, and the Canadian Factory Harness today. Hitch took less than an hour and was straightforward. The Wiring harness took 2 hours. It wasn't too bad after figuring out how to put the pins in the connectors. Its a clean install and no wire splicing or running wire to the battery. The hardest part was getting the new grommet for the 4 flat wiring seated into the hole in the floor. I was being too gentle with it. Also, routing the wire loom under the car to the 4-flat bracket takes some creativity to not get too close to the muffler, tailpipe, or sharp heat deflector.
 
I installed the DrawTite on Thursday, and the Canadian Factory Harness today. Hitch took less than an hour and was straightforward. The Wiring harness took 2 hours. It wasn't too bad after figuring out how to put the pins in the connectors. Its a clean install and no wire splicing or running wire to the battery. The hardest part was getting the new grommet for the 4 flat wiring seated into the hole in the floor. I was being too gentle with it. Also, routing the wire loom under the car to the 4-flat bracket takes some creativity to not get too close to the muffler, tailpipe, or sharp heat deflector.

I believe that is why Mazda had the wiring recall on the original trailer wiring was that because of the routing, it was getting shorted out on the muffler. That could cause a bad fire but the fuse should blow before it does.

It's a matter of preference. The Tekonsha kit is plug and play, no splicing. Major difference is of course running a designate fused power wire to the battery or tapping into the power module in the back. Then either letting the wiring tuck under the gate when it use or running it permanently through a hole in the floorpan which of course has to be carefully routed as to avoid the hot muffler.

Either way, it's just a matter of preference. One can argue which is "better" but at the end of the day, both methods should be trouble free if done correctly.

My question is what is the point of that plastic OEM bracket that must be removed when installing the hitch? I am going to toss it since it will never go back on.
 
I dont know what the trim piece is for, but i cut it out around the hitch and reinstalled it. It helped finish off my wiring bracket too.
 
There is another thread where that point is debated. I prefer OEM harness, another user prefers one of the aftermarket ones from etrailer. I don't think you can go wrong with either. Maybe see if your mechanic has a preference.

The OEM harness instructions are here:

https://www.mazdaparts.org/mazdaq-cx...rness-kit.html

I think etrailer has instructions for the ones they sell

Keep in mind that the drawtite and other after market hitches do not have bracket for the wiring plug. I fabricated one in the other threads (2 other trailer harness threads) below this one.

We debated the wiring harness here https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/sho...CX5-which-trailer-wiring-kit-Curt-or-Tekonsha
And a picture of my install is here: https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123863592-2017-CX-5-Trailer-hitch

I don't like the OEM wire harness. Reading the instructions they use T-connectors that crimp into existing wires. Also I like the Curtis hitch better. I think I will get the Curtis hitch and Curtis wire harness, and tap the power supply into the aux wire box like the OEM wire harness does in their instructions.
 
I don't like the OEM wire harness. Reading the instructions they use T-connectors that crimp into existing wires. Also I like the Curtis hitch better. I think I will get the Curtis hitch and Curtis wire harness, and tap the power supply into the aux wire box like the OEM wire harness does in their instructions.

The best harness is the Canadian OEM. It requires no splicing or power run to battery. I don't know why the US one is different. I ordered it from the same place I ordered my deep premium floor mats. Both excellent. I used the Draw-Tite 2" hitch about which I have no complaints.
 
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I want to get that harness. What was the site you ordered it from? I can not find the CN harness with my searches.
 
Edit- The Canada dealer still sells the plug and play version, the picture is just incorrect on their web page.
 
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Finished installing the Curt tow hitch. What a pita, it took me a lot more than 2 hours. I did it with the car on 3" ramps so I was laying on the ground working. The hitch is very unobtrusive, barely noticeable. I like it alot.
 
That is the Canadian OEM harness.
And, I'll toss in another option. Like the OEM harness the Tekonsha (118746) trailer light converter is a good aftermarket choice. Like the Canadian OEM harness it offers T connectors so there is no wire piercing to get the light signals. This aftermarket trailer light converter suggests that you get power directly from the battery - however you have an accessory socket on the right side of the rear hatch area. Since you have the rear panels pulled loose to get to the rear lights you can tap into the accessory circuit (blue wire). This is a dedicated circuit with a 15A fuse in the fuse block 2 under the dash left side - near your left leg (fuse F3). Any way you tap into the wire is probably good. Marine style butt connector or even a scotchlok would work fine since these wires are inside the car. I strip 1" of insulation from the accessory wire and push the trailer light power wire through and twist. Some solder and tape finish the job.
Another option that I found useful over the last 10 years with several cars and trailer wiring: keep the wires inside the trunk/hatch and just pull them out when needed. Leaving the connector outside under the car will inevitably add wear and tear. Where I live there is no way it can be completely protected from the salt bath for 5 months of winter driving.
 
That is the Canadian OEM harness.
And, I'll toss in another option. Like the OEM harness the Tekonsha (118746) trailer light converter is a good aftermarket choice. Like the Canadian OEM harness it offers T connectors so there is no wire piercing to get the light signals. This aftermarket trailer light converter suggests that you get power directly from the battery - however you have an accessory socket on the right side of the rear hatch area. Since you have the rear panels pulled loose to get to the rear lights you can tap into the accessory circuit (blue wire). This is a dedicated circuit with a 15A fuse in the fuse block 2 under the dash left side - near your left leg (fuse F3). Any way you tap into the wire is probably good. Marine style butt connector or even a scotchlok would work fine since these wires are inside the car. I strip 1" of insulation from the accessory wire and push the trailer light power wire through and twist. Some solder and tape finish the job.
Another option that I found useful over the last 10 years with several cars and trailer wiring: keep the wires inside the trunk/hatch and just pull them out when needed. Leaving the connector outside under the car will inevitably add wear and tear. Where I live there is no way it can be completely protected from the salt bath for 5 months of winter driving.

I will keep the wire in the car as well. Like you say it keeps them in new condition. I put a trailer and harness on my old car and kept the wire inside the car.
 
This is a video of the Canadian harness being used. At 2:45 it shows the harness power wire, with a small bullet style plug, being plugged into an empty aux circuit. I assume that the North American CX-5's have this too. I would like to power mine like this, and keep the harness' 10 amp fuse so that the trailer circuit would blow without bothering the 15 amp car circuit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2aLBMQMDI7M

One thing to consider is, the brake lights come on without the car on. That must be why the aftermarket harnesses instructions say to wire the power directly to the battery, then the harness controller will be supplied with power all the time, not just when in aux mode or when the car is running.
 
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That is the Canadian OEM harness.
And, I'll toss in another option. Like the OEM harness the Tekonsha (118746) trailer light converter is a good aftermarket choice. Like the Canadian OEM harness it offers T connectors so there is no wire piercing to get the light signals. This aftermarket trailer light converter suggests that you get power directly from the battery - however you have an accessory socket on the right side of the rear hatch area. Since you have the rear panels pulled loose to get to the rear lights you can tap into the accessory circuit (blue wire). This is a dedicated circuit with a 15A fuse in the fuse block 2 under the dash left side - near your left leg (fuse F3). Any way you tap into the wire is probably good. Marine style butt connector or even a scotchlok would work fine since these wires are inside the car. I strip 1" of insulation from the accessory wire and push the trailer light power wire through and twist. Some solder and tape finish the job.
Another option that I found useful over the last 10 years with several cars and trailer wiring: keep the wires inside the trunk/hatch and just pull them out when needed. Leaving the connector outside under the car will inevitably add wear and tear. Where I live there is no way it can be completely protected from the salt bath for 5 months of winter driving.

I installed the Curt harness today. Like you, I taped into the blue wire. I stripped 1/2" from it and from the fat wire the kit has, put flux on the fat wire. Lined them up and wrapped a very fine piece of copper (one strand from a multi strand wire) around and around. It was tedious but makes a small but strong joint. Then used a very hot soldering iron to make a good connection.
So things that went wrong. I installed the box near the ground on the driver's side, like the Etrailer guy did in his video. When I put the panel back, it just did not go comfortable into its position. The box was interfering. So I unstuck the box and stuck it on the back side of that piece of metal near the wheel well. I also put very sticky tape with fibers in it over the top of the box too, tapping it to the metal. Duct tape would probably work good. I don't want it falling off. The second mistake was when putting it back together I popped on the protector plate over the rubber seal. So I had to take that off again, pop out the center thing by the latch and work the rubber seal over the edge and pop the center piece of plastic back on.
 
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