2017 Tow Hitch

Jon.NY

Member
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Mazda CX-5 GT 2017
I've not seen any news on whether the first gen hitches will fit the 2017. Does anyone have any insight? Thanks.


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Are you open to 3rd party?

If so, you may want to reach out to etrailer

https://www.etrailer.com/hitch-2017_Mazda_CX-5.htm

Even a question about wiring harness here

https://www.etrailer.com/question-219257.html

"Wiring Harness Compatible with 2017 Mazda CX-5 That has LED Lights

Question:
Just to confirm that this will work on the 2017 CX-5 that has all LED lights?
asked by: Hubert C
Expert Reply:
Yes, the Tekonsha wiring harness # 119147KIT will work with the LED lights on your 2017 Mazda CX-5. I've linked a video of the install process for you.

If you don't already have a trailer hitch receiver I suggest the Draw-Tite # 76138. It's a 2 inch, Class III hitch receiver which will give you more capacity and variety when it comes to towing or carrying accessories on the hitch.

To tow a trailer you'll also need a ball mount and hitch ball. I've attached link of our selection of ball mounts for a 2 inch hitch receiver as well as an article to help you determine the correct rise or drop you may need. Once you choose a ball mount you can then choose a hitch ball to fit it.

One way to make choosing a ball mount easier is to go with an adjustable ball mount like the B&W Tow & Stow # BWTS10038B. It features the ability to be flipped under the hitch when not using it and will provide up to 5-1/2 inches of rise or 5 inches of drop.

For a pin and clip to fit you can use # PC3 or if you'd like to have a locking pin you can use # BWTS51234.

I've also included links to some articles on towing that you might find helpful.

expert reply by: Charles S"
 
Are you open to 3rd party?

If so, you may want to reach out to etrailer

https://www.etrailer.com/hitch-2017_Mazda_CX-5.htm

Even a question about wiring harness here

https://www.etrailer.com/question-219257.html

"Wiring Harness Compatible with 2017 Mazda CX-5 That has LED Lights

Question:
Just to confirm that this will work on the 2017 CX-5 that has all LED lights?
asked by: Hubert C
Expert Reply:
Yes, the Tekonsha wiring harness # 119147KIT will work with the LED lights on your 2017 Mazda CX-5. I've linked a video of the install process for you.

If you don't already have a trailer hitch receiver I suggest the Draw-Tite # 76138. It's a 2 inch, Class III hitch receiver which will give you more capacity and variety when it comes to towing or carrying accessories on the hitch.

To tow a trailer you'll also need a ball mount and hitch ball. I've attached link of our selection of ball mounts for a 2 inch hitch receiver as well as an article to help you determine the correct rise or drop you may need. Once you choose a ball mount you can then choose a hitch ball to fit it.

One way to make choosing a ball mount easier is to go with an adjustable ball mount like the B&W Tow & Stow # BWTS10038B. It features the ability to be flipped under the hitch when not using it and will provide up to 5-1/2 inches of rise or 5 inches of drop.

For a pin and clip to fit you can use # PC3 or if you'd like to have a locking pin you can use # BWTS51234.

I've also included links to some articles on towing that you might find helpful.

expert reply by: Charles S"

Thanks Kedis. That was very helpful. I've put in an order for the hitch. I'm going to use it for a bike carrier so won't need the wiring harness presently.


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The hitch off my '14 fit on my '17. Wiring harness was different, but you don't need that.

I agree on the draw-tite 76138. Stronger, and lighter than the other options. I've got an older draw-tite class III (75748) that I really like because it mounts at 4 locations instead of 2, but it is 14 pounds heavier.
 
The hitch off my '14 fit on my '17. Wiring harness was different, but you don't need that.

I agree on the draw-tite 76138. Stronger, and lighter than the other options. I've got an older draw-tite class III (75748) that I really like because it mounts at 4 locations instead of 2, but it is 14 pounds heavier.

Good info Tex. I'm guessing the install is very similar between 2017 and 2014 so the various gen 1 install videos I've been watching will be applicable.


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Yes, install will be the same and it is super easy. A lot of people complain about the difficulty of the exhaust hangers. Just get a squirt bottle and fill with car wash soap and water mix, spray on the bushings, and they will slide right off. Honestly, that is the easiest part of the install if you do it this way. I had to remove the muffler for my install to reach the install points closest to the front of the vehicle. But on the new style you are getting, there are only two install locations near the back corners of the vehicle. Just use a bungee cord or rope to support the exhaust when you lower it out of the way.
 
Yes, install will be the same and it is super easy. A lot of people complain about the difficulty of the exhaust hangers. Just get a squirt bottle and fill with car wash soap and water mix, spray on the bushings, and they will slide right off. Honestly, that is the easiest part of the install if you do it this way. I had to remove the muffler for my install to reach the install points closest to the front of the vehicle. But on the new style you are getting, there are only two install locations near the back corners of the vehicle. Just use a bungee cord or rope to support the exhaust when you lower it out of the way.

Thanks for the advice.

Did you put the car on jack stands and if so, what type did you use? I have a three ton trolley jack but will buy a couple of jacks or maybe ramps to do the job. I understand jack stands for the CX-5 require a v-groove top?


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I have ramps and just backed up on them. The ramps are great for oil changes as well if you are going to do that yourself. One thing that I forgot, is it will help if you have someone to help you hold the hitch when you are putting it in place and starting the bolts into the nuts. Yours is a lot lighter than mine, which is good, but it still would be easier if you had an extra hand for that part.

I have an old floor jack and just place a folded rag on it when I jack up on the pinch welds beside each tire. And then a folded rag in the jack stands before I lower the pinch weld onto those. They make pucks with a groove that you can use. I only use jack stands for tire rotations.
 
I have ramps and just backed up on them. The ramps are great for oil changes as well if you are going to do that yourself. One thing that I forgot, is it will help if you have someone to help you hold the hitch when you are putting it in place and starting the bolts into the nuts. Yours is a lot lighter than mine, which is good, but it still would be easier if you had an extra hand for that part.

I have an old floor jack and just place a folded rag on it when I jack up on the pinch welds beside each tire. And then a folded rag in the jack stands before I lower the pinch weld onto those. They make pucks with a groove that you can use. I only use jack stands for tire rotations.

Appreciate all the great advice.

Given I'm hoping to get a set of winter wheels/tires I guess I'll be doubling up and getting the stands and the ramps! Don't tell my wife....


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Appreciate all the great advice.

Given I'm hoping to get a set of winter wheels/tires I guess I'll be doubling up and getting the stands and the ramps! Don't tell my wife....


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Well, I installed the hitch receiver at the weekend.

It was pretty straight forward as I watched the videos for installing the hitch on the etrailer website for the pre-2017 model year. A video wasn't available on the website for the 2017 MY but the install was very similar.

The only difference was that the 2017 has a small piece of trim under the bumper that needs to be removed to install the hitch.

I installed it by myself which wasn't too difficult. I propped up one end with my knees as I maneuvered the near end with my hands. Once you get one bolt partially tightened it supports itself. It certainly would have been easier with someone assisting.

The rear most bolts were difficult to torque up due to the shape of the hitch. The instructions mentioned a universal joint to help get the job done. I didn't have one in a ". I grabbed a smaller wrench and was able to get it done without the joint, though it was more fiddly.

Thanks to everyone who provided input.

29e37e44119a2ead4c734a2c523a6c1c.jpg





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Awesome! Glad it worked out. I left that piece of trim you were talking about, but thought about removing it too. My hitch pressed hard up against it but managed to fit. I attached the bracket for my wiring harness to it, but you could also just attache it to the bottom of the bumper if you ever need to.

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Congrats on install!!! Even if you don't tow having a hitch really ups the utility factory. I use mine more with rear cargo carrier than trailer towing but still do the latter with my small boat at times.
 
Assuming my car arrives I plan to attack this install this weekend. Are you guys referring to removing trim for the install or permanently? Does that black trim just pop out?
 
Awesome! Glad it worked out. I left that piece of trim you were talking about, but thought about removing it too. My hitch pressed hard up against it but managed to fit. I attached the bracket for my wiring harness to it, but you could also just attache it to the bottom of the bumper if you ever need to.

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Thanks for the info. I'm not sure if my hitch would have gone on with that piece of trim in place but it's certainly not possible to reinstall it with the hitch in place.

Maybe I'll loosen the hitch a little and see if I can wiggle the trim back in place.

In any event it's a pretty small, apparently inconsequential piece so I'll sleep easy either way.

Thanks again for the help.


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Congrats on install!!! Even if you don't tow having a hitch really ups the utility factory. I use mine more with rear cargo carrier than trailer towing but still do the latter with my small boat at times.

Thanks!

I'm intending to use mine for cargo carrying rather than full on towing.


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Assuming my car arrives I plan to attack this install this weekend. Are you guys referring to removing trim for the install or permanently? Does that black trim just pop out?

The trim does come off pretty easily. That said, it seems like it might well be possible to leave it on.


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The trim does come off pretty easily. That said, it seems like it might well be possible to leave it on.


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It won't matter either way. I think that piece is to help attach the rear undergarnish accessory that is available from Mazda. My hitch bent the piece upward a little in the middle, but you cannot tell unless you lay on the ground and look underneath. And even if you did want that undergarnish accessory shown below, you could not have it and a hitch anyway.

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Are you guys actually pulling the exhaust off the hangers for the install or just pulling it down?
 
Depends on which hitch you are installing. I had to pull the muffler off all 4 hangers, disconnect it from the pipe and set it to the side for my install because my hitch had 4 connection points. The newer hitches only have 2 connection points near the back of the vehicle, so you can just pull the muffler off the hangers and let it hang on a bungee cord or something just enough to move it out of the way to gain access.
 
Depends on which hitch you are installing. I had to pull the muffler off all 4 hangers, disconnect it from the pipe and set it to the side for my install because my hitch had 4 connection points. The newer hitches only have 2 connection points near the back of the vehicle, so you can just pull the muffler off the hangers and let it hang on a bungee cord or something just enough to move it out of the way to gain access.

Mine was the latter - released the muffler from the four hangers and supported it with a cam strap. I didn't have to disconnect the muffler from the rest of the exhaust. There was plenty of room to work with this method.


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