Are IAC valves adjustable?

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Mazda Protege5
Idling issues on my 2002 MP 5 (150 k) driving me nuts!

Had rough idle and private Mazda master tech mechanic suggested likely faulty IAC.
Bought new IAC (SMP brand aka Standard) for $125 (a steal I thought as most around $200 mark) plus new OEM gaskets for IAC & throttle body.
Got mechanic to fit all and asked him to clean throttle body during swap. Huge difference as idle stable and shaking/juddering gone. However on cold start it idles at just over 2000 rpm before gradually dropping to 700 in a few minutes. Mechanic suggested part faulty but he thought maybe could try adjusting it but I don't believe that part is adjustable? Can anyone confirm this (see photo for where he thinks is adjustable)? Company I bought part from says is not and agree to replace new one if I am sure it's faulty. Very reasonable of them.
Today had old IAC refitted and it's juddering again but does not start out at ridiculously high idle so I have confirmation new part was faulty. I read another blog on here about faulty new IAC's causing high idle so before I return it does anyone have any input about using SMP IAC's? OEM one's are almost $400 so not doing that.

Since the initial swap I now have a pulsing RPM issue during coasting. When hits 1100 it surges up to 1800 and then pulses sharply back & forth between the two. I wondered if new part caused that as never had before but now old IAC back it still does it so obviously not that. From what I've read could be vacuum line leak caused during part swap but my mechanical knowledge is sadly lacking so maybe someone else had similar issue?
 

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Idling issues on my 2002 MP 5 (150 k) driving me nuts!

Had rough idle and private Mazda master tech mechanic suggested likely faulty IAC.
Bought new IAC (SMP brand aka Standard) for $125 (a steal I thought as most around $200 mark) plus new OEM gaskets for IAC & throttle body.
Got mechanic to fit all and asked him to clean throttle body during swap. Huge difference as idle stable and shaking/juddering gone. However on cold start it idles at just over 2000 rpm before gradually dropping to 700 in a few minutes. Mechanic suggested part faulty but he thought maybe could try adjusting it but I don't believe that part is adjustable? Can anyone confirm this (see photo for where he thinks is adjustable)? Company I bought part from says is not and agree to replace new one if I am sure it's faulty. Very reasonable of them.
Today had old IAC refitted and it's juddering again but does not start out at ridiculously high idle so I have confirmation new part was faulty. I read another blog on here about faulty new IAC's causing high idle so before I return it does anyone have any input about using SMP IAC's? OEM one's are almost $400 so not doing that.

Since the initial swap I now have a pulsing RPM issue during coasting. When hits 1100 it surges up to 1800 and then pulses sharply back & forth between the two. I wondered if new part caused that as never had before but now old IAC back it still does it so obviously not that. From what I've read could be vacuum line leak caused during part swap but my mechanical knowledge is sadly lacking so maybe someone else had similar issue?

That's normal, it's programmed to do that in order to heat up the 02 sensors, catalyst, etc. in less time.

It may take some getting used to, but it's nothing to worry about. And no, it isn't adjustable.
 
If your battery was disconnected then your car needs to relearn how to idle the car.
Your ECU may need to get used to the new IAC as well.
It takes about 100 miles for the car to learn.
 
The car idles high during cold start so it can get warm up faster. Pretty sure even brand new cars are the same. If your car idled at 700rpm cold start then that would be messed up.
 
Thank you! So I ask myself why did technician 1) Not know that was normal & 2) suggest it was adjustable. He was just recommended to me & now I'm not so sure.
 
So now I know the rpm pulsing while coasting is not the IAC any ideas what it might be? BTW I had driven well over 200 miles so I presumed that it had relearnt to idle.
 
Ok a little knowledge I picked up but others might have a different opinion on, 1) technicians are still from the older days that haven't caught up with today's technology like my dad. They're used to older vehicles.
2) most technicians want more Money so they'll charge you for something they can't change or say it runs better it had literally no difference. they'll say a parts old and swap it out to charge you more, I stopped going to mechanics. I trust Google as much as I trust them. Rather do the work myself and save on labor.
 
He probably wants to adjust the idle screw on the throttle body which SHOULD NOT BE ADJUSTED. You could have a dirty EGR causing the idle issues or the car could need new spark plugs, coils and wires.
 

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