My P5 build thread...

When you run under 160deg ecu will be open loop. I ran with different size washers trying to get the right temp.

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

Via Mishimoto

Opens at a lower temperature (169F) than standard thermostats, allowing coolant to flow through the engine sooner, reducing engine temperatures

my S13s temp gauge sits right around 168-172 (via upper radiator hose temp sensor) when im driving and is rated at 169 (just looked it up). i highly doubt the Mazda will fall into closed loop after its warmed up.
 
Via Mishimoto



my S13s temp gauge sits right around 168-172 (via upper radiator hose temp sensor) when im driving and is rated at 169 (just looked it up). i highly doubt the Mazda will fall into closed loop after its warmed up.
S13 is a different car man. I monitored my ecu when I was messing with radiator and thermostat.

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk
 
S13 is a different car man. I monitored my ecu when I was messing with radiator and thermostat.

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

found a thread on here discussing open/closed loop details...

the open/closed loop issue is yet another annoying difference this ecu has...The computer doesn't use a single trigger for switching...it uses a bunch of different ones...starting a cold protege will put in a cold start open loop protocol...the first trigger for switching out of cold start comes at a water temp switch for 149*, at which point VTCS is switched off...but the car will sometimes remain in open loop anyway...data from IAT, tps, MAF all play a part in it, and I don't have the info in front of me at which point closed loop is finally switched in...
 
well im not super worried about it... its coming up to summer and i doubt the car will ever get near 160 during normal operation. if it becomes an issue, ill just buy a new OE unit and swap em out. only pain in the ass bit is draining the radiator. i think it took roughly 30 minutes to swap my OE SR thermostat for my NISMO unit, and fortunately the thermostat on the Protege is STUPID easy to access as the water neck sits right next to the header.
 
well im not super worried about it... its coming up to summer and i doubt the car will ever get near 160 during normal operation. if it becomes an issue, ill just buy a new OE unit and swap em out. only pain in the ass bit is draining the radiator. i think it took roughly 30 minutes to swap my OE SR thermostat for my NISMO unit, and fortunately the thermostat on the Protege is STUPID easy to access as the water neck sits right next to the header.
Yeah it's super easy. I don't even take the hose off.

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk
 
Well my SAMCO hoses didn't show up today :( But I did get the radiator, thermostat and Corksport can in the mail :D Will post a pic when everything shows up.
 
Just thought Id post some pics I took today... next pics will be of new radiator installed ;)

17991460_10211490933660699_370299495288430251_o.jpg

17904367_10211490933780702_3850737425467997198_n.jpg

18010520_10211490934380717_5121009436756034819_n.jpg



AND AN ACTUAL INTERIOR SHOT, OH MY!!!
17880703_10211490933740701_7117105051734789841_o.jpg
 
Just snagged a MSP front AND rear sway bar today! eeeeeeeeee! Need to pick up the AWR clunk fix kit and some new adjustable rear end links!

Before I forget... does anyone know the actual length the front sway bar links should be when they are adjustable and youve dropped your car roughly 2"?
 
Last edited:
Really depends on where exactly the mounting tabs are mounted on your coilovers. I went with a set of whiteline adjustables. The ones that you cut to length.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
 
oh yeah, and i bought a dress up washer set for my engine bay today... dont care how ricey, want nice looking blue washers everywhere with allen bolts ;)
 
You just want the bar to be level with the ground. Whatever length works, works. I think the p5 and msp front sways require different sway bar link lengths though. My p5 bar sat level, but my recently installed msp bar angles up a bit. Need longer links.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
 
currently mine angles... guess ill need to adjust the links so its level with the ground. i spent about 20-30 min searching via Google (lots of topics from this site) for the answer to the sway bar question, but not a single person talked about proper length with adjustable links when using coilovers.

i guess im just so use to the 240sx world where its loaded with little 20 somethings who do nothing but talk s*** now instead of actually trying to help out. kinda nice to be part of a community that actually TRYS to help others instead of making them feel bad about asking questions :)
 
currently mine angles... guess ill need to adjust the links so its level with the ground. i spent about 20-30 min searching via Google (lots of topics from this site) for the answer to the sway bar question, but not a single person talked about proper length with adjustable links when using coilovers.

i guess im just so use to the 240sx world where its loaded with little 20 somethings who do nothing but talk s*** now instead of actually trying to help out. kinda nice to be part of a community that actually TRYS to help others instead of making them feel bad about asking questions :)
Bryan Smith who built msps said the sway bar ends should be level with the ground when there is load on the suspension. You can put a tiny bit pretension if you prefer.

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk
 
Got the new radiator, thermostat and hoses installed tonight along with my STI lip thats been sitting in my office for the past few months... Still need to refinish the edges of the lip that I cut off so theyd be square with the fenders, but Ill do that sometime next week. Nothing a little custom sanding and urethane wont fix! ;) Also yanked my mid pipe off tonight and tried that upgraded mid pipe section I got with my catback exhaust, the stupid flanges are wrong at the muffler section. Soooooooooo I took my OEM mid pipe and used my shops glass sander on the flange that meets the muffler. Seals up perfectly now that I got rid of all the decayed metal and rust! My OBX catback now has a nice full and low bassy sound, I absolutely LOVE it!!!

Ill get a shot of the engine bay and installed STI lip tomorrow when its light outside... Now onto MP3 tune, FSZE intake cam aaaaaaaaand waiting for my wheels to show up!
 
Back