Rear brakes have started squeaking @ 20k miles

Thanks yrwei52. Good stuff. As long as I don't have to mess with brake fluid while checking out the caliper pins, I think I should be all set. Just need to find a good opportunity to change out the winter tires/wheels.

Nope... no need to do anything but jack up & remove tire, unscrew caliper bolts, lube if needed and then tighten. Sorry don't have torque specs on hand... I know they are in a searchable thread though.

EDIT: My OEM brakes are wearing well and no noise.
 
Nope... no need to do anything but jack up & remove tire, unscrew caliper bolts, lube if needed and then tighten. Sorry don't have torque specs on hand... I know they are in a searchable thread though.

EDIT: My OEM brakes are wearing well and no noise.

Since I'm new to this, I am assuming the bolts are on the inside of the caliper? Are there bolts on there that aren't related to the caliper pins? I thought I saw a photo somewhere, but I can't locate it at the moment.

thanks again.
 
Caliper Slide Pins

Since I'm new to this, I am assuming the bolts are on the inside of the caliper? Are there bolts on there that aren't related to the caliper pins? I thought I saw a photo somewhere, but I can't locate it at the moment.

thanks again.
For front brake caliper slide pins are #10 in the pic and you loose #3 bolts to take pins out.
For rear brake caliper slide pins are #11 in the pic and you loose #4 bolts to take pins out.

Torque specs for slide pin bolts:
Front: 23 ~ 28 ft-lbf
Rear: 17 ~ 22 ft-lbf

Make sure to clean the old grease, and apply proper new "rubber grease" discussed in Lube those caliper bolt pins! posted earlier.

CX-5 Front Brake:
attachment.php

attachment.php


CX-5 Rear Brake:
attachment.php

attachment.php


Mazda CX-5 Front Brake_01.jpg Mazda CX-5 Front Brake_02.jpg Mazda CX-5 Rear Brake_01.jpg Mazda CX-5 Rear Brake_02.jpg
 
Last edited:
So those are the only two bolts holding the caliper in place? I assume you would remove and clean one bolt/pin at a time to prevent the caliper from moving/shifting?
 
So those are the only two bolts holding the caliper in place? I assume you would remove and clean one bolt/pin at a time to prevent the caliper from moving/shifting?
Yes, you can do that way but I believe even if you remove both bolts and pins, the caliper should stay put if you're careful.. You can also use Mintex Ceratec lubricant recommended by Anchorman.
 
Yes, you can do that way but I believe even if you remove both bolts and pins, the caliper should stay put if you're careful.. You can also use Mintex Ceratec lubricant recommended by Anchorman.

not too sure about the Mintex Ceratec lubricant, is this silicon based ? I think it's only available in UK, don't see any dealers in USA
has that been proven not to swell up the rubber boot ? the right thing to use is silicon based like Sil-Glyde that has been proven to be compatible with rubber.
 
Rubber Grease

not too sure about the Mintex Ceratec lubricant, is this silicon based ? I think it's only available in UK, don't see any dealers in USA
has that been proven not to swell up the rubber boot ? the right thing to use is silicon based like Sil-Glyde that has been proven to be compatible with rubber.
I thought you'd ordered a Mintex Ceratec Lubricant recommended by Anchorman? I understand some of the brake grease although claimed rubber-safe, but still swells up the rubber given enough time. Sil-Glyde should be fine proven by many users. But I also trust Anchorman's knowledge and believe Mintex Ceratec is find too.
 
I'm approaching 20k miles, so far no squeaks yet. Does anyone have an idea on what might cause the brake pads to be half worn on all 4 sides at just 21k miles? Does the iActive AWD system use brakes to help cornering?
 
I thought you'd ordered a Mintex Ceratec Lubricant recommended by Anchorman? I understand some of the brake grease although claimed rubber-safe, but still swells up the rubber given enough time. Sil-Glyde should be fine proven by many users. But I also trust Anchorman's knowledge and believe Mintex Ceratec is find too.

yep, I got it off eBay for $3.67 shipped to USA from UK, but was only going to use it on the brake pad/piston interface and pad ears like he did. But going to stick with the Sil-glyde for the pins.

In his how-to, Anchorman mentioned we wasn't aware of Sil-glyde and was going to do more research, not saying the Ceratec won't work , just saying there's no data on it or what's the chemistry make up of it and it's compatibility with rubber boots on caliper pins.

https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)

In video below, there's no mention of caliper pins or rubber seals,

just the brake pad backs and ears, I like the fact there's no metallic particles in it ....

 
Last edited:
So those are the only two bolts holding the caliper in place? I assume you would remove and clean one bolt/pin at a time to prevent the caliper from moving/shifting?

You'd be fine taking both out. Even if caliper shifted a tiny bit it is easy to get things back in place. You'll see once you are in there.
 
yep, I got it off eBay for $3.67 shipped to USA from UK, but was only going to use it on the brake pad/piston interface and pad ears like he did. But going to stick with the Sil-glyde for the pins.

In his how-to, Anchorman mentioned we wasn't aware of Sil-glyde and was going to do more research, not saying the Ceratec won't work , just saying there's no data on it or what's the chemistry make up of it and it's compatibility with rubber boots on caliper pins.

https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)

In video below, there's no mention of caliper pins or rubber seals,

just the brake pad backs and ears, I like the fact there's no metallic particles in it ....

Thanks for the info! There're several choices on grease used on caliper slide pins. I believe I'll follow your decision and use Sil-Glyde on them.
 
Back