Speaker Uprade 2015 Grand touring with Bose

J

JimKJSVTCX-5

:
2015 CX-5 Grand Touring AWD w/ Mazda3 18 rims
I want to put Focals 6-3/4s in my rear doors. I was actually thinking of putting 5 of these 3 in the dash and 2 in the pillar. I am concerned if there would be any possible fitment issues. Also under consideration are polks and JBLs. I am from the old school where you went and played your favorite music through each and picked one. Not possible to do any more unless you order some of each and send the ones you don't want back.
 
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JamesKJSVTCX-5 said:
I run browser plugins and modified my windows hosts file to prevent the browser redirect they are kicker model 41ksc354 on sale from www.crutchfield.com
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Yeah your link redirected to a wrong site. I may not consider Kicker 41KSC354 because of the fitment issue although it seems a better speaker than Polk Audio db351. For top-mount depth 41KSC354 requires 1 11/16" and db351 requires 1 9/16". People say you have to use force to push db351 down and install it on the driver side dash! But we wouldn't mind if you want to try Kicker 41KSC354 dash speakers but please let us know how do you feel about sound quality and fitment. :)
 
The Polks will provide more natural sound, the kickers will be a bit more harsh, both are very good speakers... IMO Polk over kicker in that location.
 
I am seeing that Crutchfield lists a mounting depth for the JBL GTO329 as 1.401 inches. I would assume this to be the easiest fit for the driver dash. Does anybody know what the mounting depth measurements are for the rear pillars?
 
From Crutchfield
2/25/2017 1:52:40 p.m. Link Looks like we have 1.326" of depth for those rear pillars
and for the left and right dash 2/25/2017 2:15:38 p.m. Link I do, we have it listed as 1.519"
 
I ordered polk db351s for left and right a kicker 41ksc354 for center Focal Performance R-165C for rear doors and MTX Thunder35 for the rear pillars. Now where do I get the connectors to tie in the 3-1/2s to factory wiring?
 
JamesKJSVTCX-5 said:
From Crutchfield
2/25/2017 1:52:40 p.m. Link Looks like we have 1.326" of depth for those rear pillars
and for the left and right dash 2/25/2017 2:15:38 p.m. Link I do, we have it listed as 1.519"
Click to expand...
Boy your links provided really messed up. (uhm) As far as D-pillar speakers the depth information you listed may not be correct as people have been putting in Polk Audio db351's there without any depth issue like front driver-side dash.
 
JamesKJSVTCX-5 said:
I ordered polk db351s for left and right a kicker 41ksc354 for center Focal Performance R-165C for rear doors and MTX Thunder35 for the rear pillars. Now where do I get the connectors to tie in the 3-1/2s to factory wiring?
Click to expand...
Don't know if it's too late but here're some suggestions for your speaker selections. The D-pillar speakers are not true L/R stereo speakers on Bose, but are instead just a single channel split into two speakers. They act more as fill-ins for Bose surround sound system. So you don't really need the most expensive 3" speakers there and most people don't even bother to replace the cheap stock 3" speakers in rear pillars. Some people can feel the difference with Polk Audio db351's installed, although not as significant as the dash speaker replacements. So the D-pillar speaker upgrades may be still worth it, but not as essential as the dash.

I know speaker selection is a personal preference. But based on Dmac43's comment, "the Polks will provide more natural sound, the Kickers will be a bit more harsh" hence he prefers Polk over Kicker in dash location; and Dmac43 has a lot of experience on speakers and he had done the speaker upgrades in his CX-5; I'd definitely take his advice and use Polk Audio db351's at front! And if you really want to, get additional two db351's for the rear. :)

Unfortunately, I don't think there're connector adapters for Mazda Bose speakers so that's why people had to cut the connectors off and use the extension wiring with the crimp connectors with added benefit of extra wire length for ease of installing some of the front speakers. Another cleaner way to handle this issue for dash speakers is:
pdlpsher said:
Here are the tools I used for the install. It helps to have two different lengths of driver bits.

RIMG0751_zpsnu1qpky5.jpg~original


Here's the difference in height between the two speakers.

RIMG0744_zpsnpyvlf9a.jpg~original


Here you could see the defroster vent pipe. You cannot move it but it's semi-rigid formed plastic.

RIMG0745_zps7vvzkrfb.jpg~original


Here you could see the speaker resting on the vent pipe before I put the screws in.

RIMG0741_zpsdgwvhcuo.jpg~original


Here's the speaker after the screws are tightened. Note that I didn't tighten the screws all the way. There's no need. Too much pressure on the screws might damage the vent pipe. The pipe does give a little so it could take some pressure from the speaker. NOTE: for some reason the driver side has greater interference than the passenger side despite both sides appear to be identical to the naked eye.

RIMG0749_zpsse8tah9r.jpg~original


I purchased this connector on eBay per someone's recommendation on this forum. They are useless. The pin spacing and pin length don't match up to the factory connector. The pins are also significantly thinner than the factory pins.

RIMG0738_zpsd4zinktl.jpg~original


Here's the factory connector on the stock Bose speaker. De-solder the wire and remove the connector.

RIMG0750_zpskuybuxdp.jpg~original


Transfer the connector to the Polk speaker and solder the pins. They match up perfectly! Watch for the polarity. The green wire on the factory harness is the negative side.

RIMG0748_zpsckywzufn.jpg~original


Another view of the transferred connector on the Polk speaker. Due to the vent pipe you want to orient the connector towards the front. There's plenty of clearance for the connector. That's it! Connect the factory harness and tighten the screws and you are done.

RIMG0747_zps0oqqpdc9.jpg~original
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This is what the local autosound shop advised me after I asked for an estimate for installing my speakers

We would not recommend changing anything but to BOSE in that application. We would not want to see any damage come to your factory amplifier. I am currently talking to a Tech who builds and repairs BOSE amplifiers. I am reading some forums stating that they are 2 ohm load, not 3.6. I am not sure. I caution you from this installation. Also, in regards to factory warranty- if you change the ohm load on the amplifier and you have an issue, then the warranty is void. We would not be responsible for ANY damage to the amplifier by your supplied equipment.
 
I took the link out. I certainly don't want to give anyone malware. This has never happened to me before. I run 360 security antivirus and comodo firewall. Do I have to get another program just for malware?
 
Chris_Top_Her said:
That link put a virus on my computer
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Try logging into safe mode. Then revert back to a restore point from like last week.

If you don't already have it download and run MalwareBytes free edition. Download latest definition updates. Scan your computer and remove everything it finds.
 
Has anyone here had any issues with their Bose amplifier after hooking up aftermarket speakers to it? The local auto sound shop wants no part of it. I know Saynotopistons was getting a shrill sound after his sub install but that's another story
 
JamesKJSVTCX-5 said:
Has anyone here had any issues with their Bose amplifier after hooking up aftermarket speakers to it? The local auto sound shop wants no part of it. I know Saynotopistons was getting a shrill sound after his sub install but that's another story
Click to expand...

A top reputable auto shop in my region advised to either keep the BOSE speakers OR gut the whole thing. They advised the BOSE system is actually good for stock but just missing bass. The only real improvement comes after changing the speakers/amp/sound processing which was out of my budget.

I experimented with installing these https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_69258_NVX-NSP35.html
My personal conclusion is that the Stock BOSE amp requires higher sensitivity speakers at lower ohms. BUT when purchasing aftermarket speakers with said specs it will produce shrill sound. My product purchased produces a non-shrill sound at the expense of lower volume, lower than the stock paper BOSE speakers.

So we need speakers that fit, sound as loud or more than stock BOSE speakers, and sound smooth. Imho I'm still searchin myself.
 
Have you tried the Polk db351s? From what I've read it looks like they might be pretty close. They certainly seem to be the most popular option here.
 
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