New Water Pump HELP

fortune730

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2008 Mazda Cx-9
So long story short I bought a 08 CX-9 Sport with a bad water pump. After removing the engine and replacing the water pump. We installed and put new oil in the car. Started right up ran until it reaches operating temp about halfway between hot and cold and it died. In the beginning we could get it to start back up but now nothing. Car turns over just slightly fires the first time and won't fire after the first try. Checked all wires and plugs. Unhooked the battery over night to reset system. Checked compression before and after also hot and cold. Noticed the head closest to headlights was the same compression number no matter hot or cold. But the rear head was about 15-20 lbs higher hot after the water pump than before when I checked it cold. Seems like the coolant level hasn't changed. Plus the car didn't over heat the first time we started it after the water pump replacement.

Any advice would be awesome!

Thanks

Also what's the unused gray plug on the left side of the radiator used for?
 
might be a dumb question but sounds like you are out fuel? Never checked how it is made but try to see if you can hook up a fuel pressure gauge on the feed line.
 
It seems to have a similar pattern when it comes to starting and dyeing. Almost will start up and then only gets worse. I will however put more fuel in to see if I get lucky.
 
It seems to have a similar pattern when it comes to starting and dyeing. Almost will start up and then only gets worse. I will however put more fuel in to see if I get lucky.

that's what makes me think fuel, doubt it's fuel level though, i would guess fuel pressure.

I had a different car that was doing this and ended up being a broken nipple on the fuel pump. Enough to start it but not enough to keep it running.
 
i don't know, if the engine doesn't start, the ecu won't have the time to go through the system to see the lean condition, unless there is a fuel pressure sensor, i doubt the ecu has a way to tell.
 
Probably a fuel problem but also check your timing chain indexing. The two heads are set independently (ie, two chains). If you are reading a difference from head to head, I would definitely check that. When the car is cold, it may not use the MAF, once it warms up it starts to use the MAF and if it isn't reading correctly, the engine may die. Something like the EGR.
 
Probably a fuel problem but also check your timing chain indexing. The two heads are set independently (ie, two chains). If you are reading a difference from head to head, I would definitely check that. When the car is cold, it may not use the MAF, once it warms up it starts to use the MAF and if it isn't reading correctly, the engine may die. Something like the EGR.

Yup that's what it sounds like to me. The car probably runs fine in closed loop but once it warms up and has to rely on other sensors it fails. I'm surprise there's no CEL.

You probably have an issue with a sensor. check all the sensors the ecu uses on open loop.
 
Probably a fuel problem but also check your timing chain indexing. The two heads are set independently (ie, two chains). If you are reading a difference from head to head, I would definitely check that. When the car is cold, it may not use the MAF, once it warms up it starts to use the MAF and if it isn't reading correctly, the engine may die. Something like the EGR.


What about the electronic throttle body? I know Ford is having issues. Mazda dealer isn't aware of this. Have you seen that as an issue? Also is there a specific sensor for idling?
 
Sorry. My coffee must have misfired this morning. Vacuum leaks do not bring codes as far as I know. If you have a vacuum leak, substantial, this could cause an inability run but no codes. A stuck EGR can cause this.

Fuel, vacuum, timing.
 
Sorry. My coffee must have misfired this morning. Vacuum leaks do not bring codes as far as I know. If you have a vacuum leak, substantial, this could cause an inability run but no codes. A stuck EGR can cause this.

Fuel, vacuum, timing.

Took it to the dealer they said new engine. They say the engine is too tight. They think the lower bearing went out. I figured they would say new engine.
 
When you turn it over with the starter, does it sound like it’s spinning at a normal speed? Does it sound like it’s struggling at all?

When it was running, did it seem to be making any unusual noises?

You said now when you try to start it, it will try to fire once, but not again. If you turn off the ignition(or disconnect the battery) and try again, will it try to fire again?

My experience with lower bearings is that they make a lot of noise when running or prevent the car from turning over. If it is a bad bearing, I suppose it could have ran fine until the oil warmed up and thinned out slightly to cause bearing contact.
 
If its a bad bearing (worn or spun) it will run fine but you will hear a knocking sound from inside the engine.

Did you check the valve timing?
 
If its a bad bearing (worn or spun) it will run fine but you will hear a knocking sound from inside the engine.

Did you check the valve timing?

Yea. I'm pretty sure a lower bearing is the issue. It sounds bad! I have accepted the fact that I will be swapping in an engine.
 

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