Resistance Shifting out of Park

B

banjos-n-beer

:
2014 QX70 AWD
Has anyone else experienced this? I've been dealing with this intermittently for a while now... finally brought it up during the last oil change.

Now and then, you can feel resistance when shifting out of Park. This usually happens (or is noticed) when you shift from Drive to Park, and then immediately try shifting back out of Park without ever taking your foot off of the brake pedal. Its also noticeable after you shift into Park, and the car settles/rolls forward or back a bit after releasing the brakes. When you shut it off and start it back up again, it really doesn't want to shift out of Park. When resistance is felt, I can often pump the brake pedal a few times to get the resistance to go away, but it doesn't always do the trick.

Dealer replaced the sensor or switch (not sure) that tells the transmission that the brake pedal is depressed and therefore it is safe to shift out of park. 2 days later I noticed the resistance again.

Any ideas what I'm looking at beyond the sensor/switch? Is reprogramming (or flashing) the transmission a possible solution? If not, any other ideas other than a transmission swap?

I do know my build date falls into the range where there were some bad transmission parts, but I haven't experienced any of the lurching or delays that seem to accompany those transmission failures.

thx!
 
Sounds like you're not using the parking brake? Not using the parking brake properly, or at all, when parking on a incline can cause what you're describing. When you shift into park and the car rolls back or forward means that the transmission is preventing the car from rolling and that's not good. The result is when you shift out of park you feel that resistance. If you parked on a very steep hill and did this it may be impossible to shift out of park normally.
 
Conrad 16.5 said:
Sounds like you're not using the parking brake? Not using the parking brake properly, or at all, when parking on a incline can cause what you're describing. When you shift into park and the car rolls back or forward means that the transmission is preventing the car from rolling and that's not good. The result is when you shift out of park you feel that resistance. If you parked on a very steep hill and did this it may be impossible to shift out of park normally.
Click to expand...

Correct, I rarely use the parking brake because I rarely park on an incline. This is happening on mostly level surfaces. If it does rock forward or backward, its ever so slight as far as movement goes. Plus the fact it happens w/out removing your foot from the brake pedal (thus no rolling at all) leads me to believe there must be something else going on.

And now that I think about it, I have noticed the resistance even the few times I have used the parking brake.

This was never noticed on my previous 2014 3 Hatchback (which had basically the same skyactiv drivetrain).
 
This happens to my electronic brake Mazda and not the manual one. I suspect it may happen when the car is still cold during the initial high idle stage and then an attempt to reverse is made before the rpms drop.
 
CX-5um said:
This happens to my electronic brake Mazda and not the manual one. I suspect it may happen when the car is still cold during the initial high idle stage and then an attempt to reverse is made before the rpms drop.
Click to expand...

That has crossed my mind as well, but it happens when fully warmed up too.

Interesting comment about the electronic parking brake though... as my 2014 Mazda 3 Hatch didn't have an electronic parking brake.
 
Not using the parking brake is a great way to dick up your transmission. I had a friend that was a real guru. Guy was an ASE Master Cert tech by the time he was 21. I know a lot of younger guys who worked on cars back then, but this guy was on another level. I've seen him do jobs that the "book" called for to take 6-8 hours, in just a couple, and he always did things RIGHT. I watched him work on cars at his dealership (large Chrysler dealer), and that always impressed me. His work was fast and RIGHT. Attention to detail off the charts. Anyway, he would ALWAYS get after his wife because she wouldn't use the parking brake, and he had numerous occasions at work to fix the transmissions of those who didn't, either. I'd suggest you use it, OP. I ALWAYS do, and I have literally NEVER had this issue. Of course, I also didn't change my transmission fluid out like everyone on this forum says I should, too, because I am following Mazda's instructions NOT to. If you have changed your fluid, it is possible that you did not get the level correct. Transmission fluid changes in conventional transmissions are tough, but in one that you can't actually check the level on, and given how much transmission fluid expands/contracts with temp. changes...that could easily cause an issue.
 
Unobtanium said:
⋯ If kyou have changed your fluid, it is possible that you did not get the level correct. Transmission fluid changes in conventional transmissions are tough, but in one that you can't actually check the level on, and given how much transmission fluid expands/contracts with temp. changes...that could easily cause an issue.
Click to expand...
Our SkyActiv-Drive automatic transmission does have a dipstick for measuring the fluid level. But it's hard to access and I doubt how many people would measure the ATF level after the drain-and-fill. I wish Mazda gives us a factory spec of ATF quantity for drain-and-fill, like Honda does.

I don't think OP has changed his ATF for his 2016 CX-5, and I do believe his transmission most likely has something waiting to happen as the behavior is not normal although it's minor.
 
yrwei52 said:
Our SkyActiv-Drive automatic transmission does have a dipstick for measuring the fluid level. But it's hard to access and I doubt how many people would measure the ATF level after the drain-and-fill. I wish Mazda gives us a factory spec of ATF quantity for drain-and-fill, like Honda does.

I don't think OP has changed his ATF for his 2016 CX-5, and I do believe his transmission most likely has something waiting to happen as the behavior is not normal although it's minor.
Click to expand...
Problem is...what temp should the ATF be at? When you change ATF, you measure the level at an exact temperature supplied by the sensor and defined in the spec.
 
Unobtanium said:
Not using the parking brake is a great way to dick up your transmission. I had a friend that was a real guru. Guy was an ASE Master Cert tech by the time he was 21. I know a lot of younger guys who worked on cars back then, but this guy was on another level. I've seen him do jobs that the "book" called for to take 6-8 hours, in just a couple, and he always did things RIGHT. I watched him work on cars at his dealership (large Chrysler dealer), and that always impressed me. His work was fast and RIGHT. Attention to detail off the charts. Anyway, he would ALWAYS get after his wife because she wouldn't use the parking brake, and he had numerous occasions at work to fix the transmissions of those who didn't, either. I'd suggest you use it, OP. I ALWAYS do, and I have literally NEVER had this issue. Of course, I also didn't change my transmission fluid out like everyone on this forum says I should, too, because I am following Mazda's instructions NOT to. If you have changed your fluid, it is possible that you did not get the level correct. Transmission fluid changes in conventional transmissions are tough, but in one that you can't actually check the level on, and given how much transmission fluid expands/contracts with temp. changes...that could easily cause an issue.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the insight. To be honest, I've probably used an emergency brake 10-20 times the past 15 years. And that was only when parking on pretty serious inclines. Never had a problem with any of my other vehicles (standard or automatic). Don't really know anyone else that uses a parking brake routinely either.

I think with me, bad experiences in the past have given me pause not to use them, because I have had them seize/freeze up in cold conditions. And I always hated that feeling of having to break that hold when they did freeze up but I had no choice but to drive off.

I haven't changed any fluids other than oil because I only have 19,000 miles. I do however plan on changing the ATF at 60,000 miles.

I'll ask the tech guys their opinion about parking brake usage when I drop it off Monday for another look-over. But I doubt they would have replaced the original switch/sensor if they thought nothing was wrong.
 
Unobtanium said:
Problem is...what temp should the ATF be at? When you change ATF, you measure the level at an exact temperature supplied by the sensor and defined in the spec.
Click to expand...
Yes indeed! For VW Passat TipTronic automatic transmission the shop manual specifies a temperature sensor stickng into the ATF for proper temperature and level measurement. But for Honda it doesn't care the exact ATF temperature as long as the ATF is "warm" and the ATF level is within the range of the dipstick. My '98 Honda CR-V has gone through 3 ATF drain-and-fill and it has no issues with factory specified refilling quantity for 175,000 miles.

Kind think of it, the fluid capacities specified in Mazda owner's manual and shop manual seem to be incorrect for some like engine oil and rear differential gear lubricant. Should I trust specified drain-and-fill capacity even if Mazda does supply one? Whatever the quantity we drained from CX-5's transmission is also questionable as Mazda tends to under-fill the fluid in some components such as engine oil, engine coolant, and rear differential gear lubricant from factory.
 
banjos-n-beer said:
Thanks for the insight. To be honest, I've probably used an emergency brake 10-20 times the past 15 years. And that was only when parking on pretty serious inclines. Never had a problem with any of my other vehicles (standard or automatic). Don't really know anyone else that uses a parking brake routinely either.

I think with me, bad experiences in the past have given me pause not to use them, because I have had them seize/freeze up in cold conditions. And I always hated that feeling of having to break that hold when they did freeze up but I had no choice but to drive off.

I haven't changed any fluids other than oil because I only have 19,000 miles. I do however plan on changing the ATF at 60,000 miles.

I'll ask the tech guys their opinion about parking brake usage when I drop it off Monday for another look-over. But I doubt they would have replaced the original switch/sensor if they thought nothing was wrong.
Click to expand...

If you're going to change the fluid, change it at 50K miles or sooner. That way if they dick it up and it wipes out your transmission or causes issues (every car I've had it changed in caused it to shift differently, or outright completely fail), you are under 5/60, and it's their problem and not yours.
 
yrwei52 said:
Yes indeed! For VW Passat TipTronic automatic transmission the shop manual specifies a temperature sensor stickng into the ATF for proper temperature and level measurement. But for Honda it doesn't care the exact ATF temperature as long as the ATF is "warm" and the ATF level is within the range of the dipstick. My '98 Honda CR-V has gone through 3 ATF drain-and-fill and it has no issues with factory specified refilling quantity for 175,000 miles.

Kind think of it, the fluid capacities specified in Mazda owner's manual and shop manual seem to be incorrect for some like engine oil and rear differential gear lubricant. Should I trust specified drain-and-fill capacity even if Mazda does supply one? Whatever the quantity we drained from CX-5's transmission is also questionable as Mazda tends to under-fill the fluid in some components such as engine oil, engine coolant, and rear differential gear lubricant from factory.
Click to expand...

Who knows? I'm leaving mine alone like Mazda says. Almost 60K miles on it and it works great.
 
Unobtanium said:
If you're going to change the fluid, change it at 50K miles or sooner. That way if they dick it up and it wipes out your transmission or causes issues (every car I've had it changed in caused it to shift differently, or outright completely fail), you are under 5/60, and it's their problem and not yours.
Click to expand...

Yeah, never really sure what to think of "lifetime" fluids, when its sometimes referred to the lifetime of the warranty.

With my 2001 4Runner, I never changed the ATF or Transfer Case oil in the 10 years (and 90,000 miles) I owned it.
 
banjos-n-beer said:
Yeah, never really sure what to think of "lifetime" fluids, when its sometimes referred to the lifetime of the warranty.

With my 2001 4Runner, I never changed the ATF or Transfer Case oil in the 10 years (and 90,000 miles) I owned it.
Click to expand...

Wow! 10 years and only 90K mi?

Yeah, my Dad's work van went mid 400's with no trans fluid change. Roommate in college had a Nissan Frontier that went well over 200K, and I think he still has it? Same for his girlfriend's Lexus, and his next GF's Camry. Every automatic I had died right after a fluid change. Was doing fine until. Except the Jeep. It just had a bit "funny" shifting after the fluid change. I don't have them changed anymore.
 
Yeah, 20k per year split between two vehicles.

Back on topic, I drove a new 2016.5 Touring around the dealer lot. Let it warm up a bit too. I was able to notice some resistance in the shifter at times too. But it was less resistance than I usually experience.
 
I always use my p brake and I pull it before i take my foot off the brake. The car will want to move +/- even on a "level" plane.
 
Sounds like something might be up with the shift lock system.
From the Mazda service manual:
SHIFT-LOCK SYSTEM INSPECTION
Shift-Lock System Inspection
1. Switch the ignition ON (engine off).
2. Shift the selector lever to the P position.
3. Verify that the selector lever cannot be shifted from P to R position when the brake pedal is
released.
If it can be verified, go to the next step.
If not as verified, inspect the following parts:
Shift-lock solenoid (See Shift-Lock System Inspection.)
Not P position switch (See NOT P POSITION SWITCH
INSPECTION.)
Brake switch (See BRAKE SWITCH INSPECTION.)
Start stop unit (See START STOP UNIT INSPECTION.)
PCM (See PCM INSPECTION [SKYACTIV-G 2.0].)
4. Verify that the selector lever can be shifted from P to R position when the brake pedal is
depressed.
If it can be verified, go to the next step.
If not as verified, inspect the following parts:
Shift-lock solenoid (See Shift-Lock System Inspection.)
Not P position switch (See NOT P POSITION SWITCH
INSPECTION.)
Brake switch (See BRAKE SWITCH INSPECTION.)
Start stop unit (See START STOP UNIT INSPECTION.)
PCM (See PCM INSPECTION [SKYACTIV-G 2.0].)
...or maybe something with the shift control cables. Trans fluid shouldn't have anything to do with it.
 
Last edited:
There's a reason that ALL vehicle manufacturers install a parking brake in their vehicles and then call it a PARKING BRAKE and then recommend it's use.

Even if you never park on an incline you should always use the P brake. Let's assume you park your car as normal, without the P brake. Some carless driver comes along trying to park near your car. As they're maneuvering their car into position next to yours they get too close and back into your rear bumper. Not hard enough to cause any visible damage but hard enough to rock your car. Without the P brake engaged all that energy is passed to the parking pawl in your transmission. The transmission is not designed to take this and there's a damned good chance that something is going to break. Why risk that as it only takes a second to engage the P brake?

I've always used the parking brake and I've stressed it's use to my wife and my sons. Everyone in the family uses the parking brake and you should too.
 
Conrad 16.5 said:
There's a reason that ALL vehicle manufacturers install a parking brake in their vehicles and then call it a PARKING BRAKE and then recommend it's use.

Even if you never park on an incline you should always use the P brake. Let's assume you park your car as normal, without the P brake. Some carless driver comes along trying to park near your car. As they're maneuvering their car into position next to yours they get too close and back into your rear bumper. Not hard enough to cause any visible damage but hard enough to rock your car. Without the P brake engaged all that energy is passed to the parking pawl in your transmission. The transmission is not designed to take this and there's a damned good chance that something is going to break. Why risk that as it only takes a second to engage the P brake?

I've always used the parking brake and I've stressed it's use to my wife and my sons. Everyone in the family uses the parking brake and you should too.
Click to expand...

Out of the 2014 owners manual:
Do not use the parking brake in
freezing weather as it may freeze.
Instead, shift to P with an automatic
transaxle and to 1 or R with a manual
transaxle. Block the rear wheel.
Saw no such warning in later owners manuals, though.
 
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