This is true but if your just trying to remove the fluid and not bleed all the brakes you can bleed thecaliper that's closest to,the master cylinder to it is quicker for the fluid to empty.
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Change Brake Fluid at 30,000 Miles?
- Thread starter SA Bill
- Start date
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but thats going to leave old fluid in 3 calipers?
Starting to get annoyed with dealer. They didn't want to rotate my tires bc of my spacers on the fronts for the bbk bc they were afraid something could happen after I drove away and then blame them. Then when I got home I noticed they did rotate them. I also asked them to put the moly oil in and asked if this was the synthetic and then they put casterol in. And I think they only did a basic inspection and not a 30000 mile inspection when I specifically said.
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Barely my goal was just to replace the majority of the fluid.
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hmmm, ok. so I guess the good news for you: Rock Auto sells rear calipers cheap! lol
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- San Antonio, Texas
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- '15 CX-5 Miata AWD
OEM wheels no?
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- 2016.5 CX-5 GT AWD titanium/black 2016 Miata Club ST MT white
If you're going to do it why not do it right? Seems pretty silly to do one caliper and leave the contaminated fluid in the system because you didn't want to bleed the entire system.
Here's what I use on all my vehicles. It makes bleeding the brakes by yourself a snap.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
Bleeding the clutch on my Kawasaki ZG1400
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For you folks planning on bleeding your own brakes, you might want to consider buying an extra set of bleeder valves. I partial bled my front brakes and the bleeders seeped for a few days afterwards. I bought an extra set of bleeders from the dealer ($3 a piece) just in case they wouldn't stop, but they did.
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- 2022 2.5GT
No, its OK on these modern systems to bleed in any order so bleed the nearest first so you can keep an eye on the reservoir (do not let air in, the new fluid will sit quite nicely on the old if you let most of it out but not all). After the first one is purged, the other 3 can be done in any order and will take very little bleeding. You will see the new fluid come through if you have a good light at the back of the bottle - it is virtually clear but the old fluid turns honey coloured with age. Older systems were linked diagonally to balance the braking if one side failed but new systems are 4 separate channels do facilitate 4 channel ABS and VSC.
A reminder for those with manual transmission, if the clutch is fed off the same reservoir (as is often the case) it will only bleed if the reservoir is dead full (this stops the clutch robbing the brakes if a leak occurs). Always save a little fluid for the clutch - it doesnt take much but often gets neglected. I bleed three brakes, then the clutch then use the last brake to bring the fluid down to the correct level. Make a note where it is on the reservoir before starting and drop it down to that level. If you leave at the full mark and the pads are part worn, the fluid will overflow when the pistons are pushed back. The reservoir is designed to contain enough fluid to allow all 4 pads to be fully worn. If they are getting down you can expect the level to be low and obviously is they are all near new you can fill the fluid to the full mark. The fluid for the clutch trickles over a little internal Hoover Dam so you can have low brake fluid without starving the clutch.
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- 2016.5 CX-5 GT AWD titanium/black 2016 Miata Club ST MT white
Don't tell your wife but don't reuse the turkey baster either...
I was going to put DOT4 fluid.....but then I noticed at least 2 different dealerships are offering brake fluid flushes. One at $110 and the other $99. OEM fluid flushed and filled the right way (vs me
) by Mazda Techs. Sounds enticing.The good thing about it is you can tell if old fluid was flushed by the color of the fluid.
I recommend this... it's low moisture absorption and I have used this in my older cars with ABS and without... firms up the pedal nicely and has a relatively high boiling point.... lasts much longer than the cheaply made Mazda crap
FWIW, Mazda Europe recommends/sells DOT4 fluid (I don't know who makes it... years ago, it was Elf/Total, like their motor oils)
G
Guest2019C20
I had a honda's calipers destroyed by water absorbed by old brake fluid. I now change our vehicles every other year. I run a full 1 Qt thru the system, to make sure I get the cleanest fluid possible.
Make sure you use the same type of fluid currently in your car, DOT 3 or 4. Do *not* assume that going to a higher number is better, it isn't.
Make sure you use the same type of fluid currently in your car, DOT 3 or 4. Do *not* assume that going to a higher number is better, it isn't.
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- 2016.5 CX-5 GT AWD titanium/black 2016 Miata Club ST MT white
I was going to put DOT4 fluid.....but then I noticed at least 2 different dealerships are offering brake fluid flushes. One at $110 and the other $99. OEM fluid flushed and filled the right way (vs me
The good thing about it is you can tell if old fluid was flushed by the color of the fluid.
Sorry, but just because the work was done at a dealership doesn't mean that it was done right. One would like to think this but in reality it doesn't always work out that way...
What's an indication that work was not done right when changing brake fluid? Air bubbles, improper levels, poor braking? I'd assume you'd know right away if work was done right. A Mazda tech will be using a pressure flush machine with a master cylinder adapter for a more complete air tight flush vs gravity. Hence the $99 vs $30-35 in OEM Mazda brake fluid DIY process. In my dry desert environment I only need to change the brake fluid every 4-5 years vs 2-3.
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- 2016.5 CX-5 GT AWD titanium/black 2016 Miata Club ST MT white
Since I've always done this service myself, in all my vehicles, I'm not sure how many ways it could be screwed up.
Sloppy work, wrong fluid, stripped bleeders... That list could go on for a while. How about if the tech only changed out the fluid in the reservoir but not the lines so that it looked as if the job was done right but it wasn't even close?
I'm sorry, but I guess I have trust issues with other people working on my cars. This is why I do as much of the maintenance and repair as I possible can myself.
