Mustard, the yellow P5

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Removed rear seats, everthing is much cleaner.
So besides for my turbo install, and the sway bar install, im looking at putting a hitch on my p5. Whats the towing capabilites? If i were to do this could i use a 2 wheel dolly to tow cars?

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So, yea i think i need to wait till i get a impact and compressor to change out the sway bars. I cant get the bolts to budge on the horseshoe brackets.

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Stowedyco said:
.., im looking at putting a hitch on my p5. Whats the towing capabilites? If i were to do this could i use a 2 wheel dolly to tow cars?
Click to expand...

Mazda doesn't recommend towing at all...




A bunch of guys have installed trailer hitches though...
There's a few good threads about it.
 
Also, to be honest, with my job, i am pretty hard on my car, basically treating my town like my own racetrack. Now im not saying i drive flat out, but i accelerate quick, am i in any danger of blowning my motor when i boost it? Do i have to baby it more??

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Last edited:
That will depend on the condition of your motor, the tune and how much boost you plan to run. I would not push more than 10psi on a T25 and I would not run more than 8psi without a front mount IC, aftermarket exhaust and a piggyback AFC.
 
For the time being, i am literally going stock MSP setup, then work from there...i dont redline very often if not ever, i usually shift at or around 3-4k. I mean im not TRYING to blow it up as if i lose my car, i lose my job.

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Grinder with a cutoff wheel works best.. A saw can too easily cut into the sway bar.
 
Guess im going to get an angle grinder tomorrow lol....it seems like as soon as i get the old end links off, it shouldnt take me but 20 mins or so to put the sway bar on.

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Angle grinders are really handy. I use mine instead of a saw all the time.
The cutoff wheels can bind in the cut though and explode... Wear eye protection.
 
pcb said:
Angle grinders are really handy. I use mine instead of a saw all the time.
The cutoff wheels can bind in the cut though and explode... Wear eye protection.
Click to expand...
And also, if you don't already know, buy some cutting wheels with it. Most only come with grinding wheels.
 
Ok so what causes the clunk? What is the clunk fix, and how can i aquire or make it? Also i tightened down my ebrake, and now it seems that my right rear squeeks after applying my brakes. Does that mean that its dragging?

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The clunk fix moves the mounting points of the sway bar out farther towards the wheels. another thing to check - those zerk fittings on your endlinks. mine wouldnt fit with those fittings on. the top ones stuck out too far and hit the inside of the wheel well. i ended up putting some 90* fittings on and they fit but i still got occasional clunking on big bumps. i ended up having to massage the lip flat along the inside of the wheelwell across from the zerk fitting. note- i am running eibachs not sure if that makes any big difference though.
 
Does the sway bar rest on the lateral when the car is on the ground? If so, your sway bar links are too long.

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