Mustard, the yellow P5

aed91104a0ee9abf6a3020aa4b20c630.jpg

Im sure this isnt helping lol

Sent from my SM-N910T3 using Tapatalk
Yeah, that's no good. And your short shifter is not causing vibration. Unless you have bronze and poly bushings. And even then it is very minor. Check the rear motormount.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
 
If you're not liking the buzz in 5th gear now then you probably would want to go with regular motor mount stiffness. You can pick your durometer number for the sporty mounts but they're all pretty stiff. You probably wouldn't want to deliver pizza all day long in racecar mode.

The rear engine mount is a real PITA to remove and replace. You really should consider replacing it while installing your turbo...
 
If you're not liking the buzz in 5th gear now then you probably would want to go with regular motor mount stiffness. You can pick your durometer number for the sporty mounts but they're all pretty stiff. You probably wouldn't want to deliver pizza all day long in racecar mode.

The rear engine mount is a real PITA to remove and replace. You really should consider replacing it while installing your turbo...
I'd highly recommend 70duro poly mounts, especially because you are gunna be boosted. They are smoothest when you have a full set, I've been dailying with mine for years, and wouldn't have it any other way.
 
Or you could just do what I did...




(Ya might wanna take Jackie's advice on this one.)
 
Hahahahaha yea that looks a little sketchy to me.....will keep in mind for sure, also rear strut bars....i read that a probe/ mx-6 bar works, is this true?

Sent from my SM-N910T3 using Tapatalk
 
Hahahahaha yea that looks a little sketchy to me.....will keep in mind for sure, also rear strut bars....i read that a probe/ mx-6 bar works, is this true?

Sent from my SM-N910T3 using Tapatalk
The probe/mx6 bars fit fine, whether or not they work is debatable.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
 
To be honest, im not super concerned with how much they work, so much as the look. For function, i bought both front and rear racing beat sway bars from a MSP. The thread i was reading concerned with the sway bar install got so convoluted with different ideas and such. What do i need, or need to do to make it work on my p5?

Sent from my SM-N910T3 using Tapatalk
 
To be honest, im not super concerned with how much they work, so much as the look. For function, i bought both front and rear racing beat sway bars from a MSP. The thread i was reading concerned with the sway bar install got so convoluted with different ideas and such. What do i need, or need to do to make it work on my p5?

Sent from my SM-N910T3 using Tapatalk

The front sway bar bolts straight on but for the rear the best option is to swap the rear crossmember for a msp unit as they're reinforced and the p5 unit won't suit the msp saddles.
 
Well im not about to do all of that for some sway bars, what other options are there? Cant i just use the msp horseshoes, msp bushings and adjustable endlinks? Also my right brake light is working intermittently. Possibly be a short, or need a new socket???

Sent from my SM-N910T3 using Tapatalk
 
Do i need a special adapter or socket to fit led headlights to our socket? Leds seem to be a smaller plug than the white connector

Sent from my SM-N910T3 using Tapatalk
 
Well the question i had is it worth it to put the front on anyways? Wouldnt it cancel out the point of putting the rear on, which is to help with the understeer?

Sent from my SM-N910T3 using Tapatalk
 
Well the question i had is it worth it to put the front on anyways? Wouldnt it cancel out the point of putting the rear on, which is to help with the understeer?

Sent from my SM-N910T3 using Tapatalk
Depends on your intensions, an autocross car that does lots of tight turns, benefits greatly from the rear bias. I personally really like the decreased body roll of having both. But it was so hard getting it installed.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
 
Well i have no intentions of autox, i literally bought them for the intention of decreased body roll. How hard is it? What needs to be done?

Sent from my SM-N910T3 using Tapatalk
 
Well i have no intentions of autox, i literally bought them for the intention of decreased body roll. How hard is it? What needs to be done?

Sent from my SM-N910T3 using Tapatalk
The exhaust needs to be removed, shifter disconnected, steering rack disconnected from subframe, and the whole rear end of the front subframe needs to be dropped a few inches. And even then, access is very limited. Definitely still possible for anyone with a full set of hand tools and a floor jack though.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
 
Well that would probably be easier when i remove the engine for the turbo swap right? What do i need to make the rear work? I know the cross member can be switched from the MSP to the P5 to make things easier, but i dont have that option, so what else can i do, or what do i need?

Sent from my SM-N910T3 using Tapatalk
 
Back