Mustard, the yellow P5

Also, i cant even swap out belts until i get this stupid socket to take the lugnuts off, or should i say locking spline nuts.

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You have to be careful tightening your alternator belt. If it's too tight you'll wreck your alternator bearing in no time.
A new belt is a lot more "grippy" but as soon as it starts to squeal it starts to get glazed and becomes more slippery.
 
Also, i cant even swap out belts until i get this stupid socket to take the lugnuts off, or should i say locking spline nuts.

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You can change the belts without removing the wheels. You don't even have to jack up the car.
Can't remember, does our a/c automatically kick in while the fan runs when in defrost mode? That's the only way I could see how turning the heat down could effect belt load.

The A/C runs when the HVAC is set to the floor only vents, the floor and defroster, and the defroster only. The only settings that don't run the AC are the dash vents and both the dash and floor vents.
 
Well i changed the belt, and it squalls now lmao, i cant win, im going to try to see if i can tighten the alternator more, and see if that does the trick, unless its too tight. Also i changed out my oem crank pulley with an obx aluminum pulley, painted calipers, and working on some interior pieces. Pics to come.

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Does anyone know the stock size for the alternator belt? I think i need to get a belt that is a 1/2" shorter than the stock belt because i am at the end of all the tensioners and still squalling, seems like i still have slack in the belt too.

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Here are part numbers for underdrive belts which are shorter.............

Gates K050446 (ac/PS)
Gates K040355 (alt/wp)

The 5 in first one means 5 ribs and 446cm long belt
The 4 in 2nd one means 4 ribs and 355cm long belt

The oems are 4050457 and 4040360 which would be 5 rib 457cm and 4 rib 360cm
 
Well ive gone from full slack, to full tighten, and everything in between, and it all screeches, so im possibly thinking bad bearing on the alternator???

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I've had two alternators go bad due to a bad bearing and it sounded VERY similar to a squealing belt.

The only real difference is that the squeal never stopped.
The pitch and volume would change a bit but you could always hear it.

Maybe take the belt off and check the pulley.
If it spins rough or it's wobbly, it's definitely bad.

PS... Replacing the alternator is a pain in that it is easy to disconnect but it is trapped in the engine bay.

The easiest way to get it out is to unbolt the hanger bearing on the axle and pull the axle out of the transmission about half an inch (not all the way).
That allows the axle to wobble out of the way just enough to work the alternator past it.
 
Well ive gone from full slack, to full tighten, and everything in between, and it all screeches, so im possibly thinking bad bearing on the alternator???

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Can you still kick the gas and get the alternator to "catch" and stop squealing ?? If so that your belt squealing.
 
Yes, if i kick the gas it goes away, but it seems to be fine if i just run the headlights or driving during the day, running heat or the fogs makes it squeal all the time no matter what. Even my dad who is a mechanical engineer is clueless, as he helped me yesterday trying to adjust it.

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The only other thing i can think is it is a rebuilt title, maybe when it got into the wreck things got a lil twisted/ misaligned

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Our car is bad for squealing belts, especially the alternator with it's small pulley and very little belt wrap.
They should have done something like this.




You can try cleaning the hell out of the pulley (acetone is an awesome cleaner)

Or you could try some belt dressing maybe and maybe just tighten it till it shuts up ??

Your under drive pulley may not be helping things... It slows down the alternator.
 
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I found that I didn't have to loosen the bottom bolt of the alternator to adjust the belt.

I just pushed on the alternator then wedged a rubber hammer handle in there to push it back if I pushed too far.
You can do it all from the top without going under the car.

I was getting tired of adjusting my damn belt every two days.

Now it only squeals once in a while when I first start the car... Then I pull the P-brake one notch to turnoff the daytime running lights (Canada eh) and it stops.

Kicking the gas works too but then it squeals like a banshee.
 
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You can do it all from the top without going under the car.

I reached behind the alternator and turned the adjuster bolt blind with a wrench.

The wrench just happens to lineup perfectly with the positive lug on my alternator and blew the 100 amp main fuse... (lots of sparks... was pretty cool)
I had to remove the fuse box to get to the stupid fuse which is bolted in underneath.

Then I went ahead and forgot about the issue and blew the damn fuse again next time I adjusted the belt.
So I finally made a rubber grommet to cover the lug... The original one had fallen off.
 
Ive got it to where it only squeals every once in awhile, and thank god for tennessee weather, isnt too particularly cold right now, so dont even need to run the heat, especially since it pours out a little heat on full temp and the 0 setting, with the windows closed it actually tends to get quite warm. Running the fog lights, not too worried, as they dont seem to do a whole lot, and since im about to purchase the turbo setup from a member on here, i figured the fmic piping would go there anyways...guess just one of those quirks i have to live with...just hate a loud car, unless intentionally done.

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Ok so im trying to get things planned out a lil, in installing the MSP turbo kit, how much should i give myself?? 2 days? 4 days??

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Ok so im trying to get things planned out a lil, in installing the MSP turbo kit, how much should i give myself?? 2 days? 4 days??

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My general rule of thumb (from both theory and practice).

Whatever amount of time YOU think it can/will take, double that, and add a day or two (depending on level of depth of mod).

This will give you time for missed parts, breakage of things, other random stuff that always comes up, etc. I had 3-4 days to install my 505 Intake Manifold, took 5 total. Had to redo that manifold (put it on and take off) at least 5 times, because my car was idling improperly and whatnot. Took a while to diagnose/narrow down the issue.

With a turbo kit, you'll be removing vac lines, oil lines, coolant lines...basically the works. Give yourself time, to check/double/triple check everything. Last thing you want is to blow your motor because an oil line was not tightened enough or whatnot (an exaggeration but you get the idea).
 
This is why i was asking, plus i am Polish, and i have dumb luck....so i always set aside extra time for me...ive never done a job like this, and this is my crash course into forced induction. Does anyone know where there might be an install write-up for this? All i can find is just parts lists

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If i recall right, i think thats included, and not news that i wanted to hear, meaning this job just became alot longer and harder

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