Grif's White P5

Ah man, that sucks. Do you know how to weld, or do you have a shop/pal that can help? Good luck with that exhaust hanger.

Is that second picture from the awr endlink? I can't tell.

Well, at least I can vouch for the RB Catback. Quiet when you want it, loud otherwise. Problem is, it's not cheap. Good luck!
 
I didn't want to weld it b/c the catback is already cracking everywhere and starting to encrust in rust lol. So thought I might as well upgrade because I've been wanting to.
Yeah I might end up getting the RB but w0aH is it gonna hurt the wallet.
 
Yeah, if there was some magic bridge I'd stop by and deliver ya the unused RB catback I have in attic not being used because all the piping back to it is 2.25 and not 2" like oem..............
 
Yeah, if there was some magic bridge I'd stop by and deliver ya the unused RB catback I have in attic not being used because all the piping back to it is 2.25 and not 2" like oem..............

dang, it's okay ;p. deciding on what system i'm gonna get this wk.

just a random pic; coworkers decided to all park together hehe
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Got some work done yesterday.
Friend got into an accident awhile ago in one of his MSP's so he's been parting it out since then.
Managed to scoop up a set of mint MSP door sills, the cupholders, and the ignition lock cylinder/all door locks/2 keys, and a few little stuff like the dome light cover, some missing interior panels.
My old one ignition cylinder was really busted up... I'd say from a possible theft attempt from before I bought it because it's as if someone jammed a flathead into it.
Everybody who tried driving my car was never able to start it on the first try lol.
Installation was much easier than I thought with his help, and start up is so much better now. No more playing around with the key in the ignition or having the key come out while I'm driving etc.
Only issue was the rear hatch lock. Had to swap the cylinders for the brackets because the brackets were different sizes.
Also got my AWR rear motor mount today, and I'm in the works of doing a leather interior swap.. just waiting on the person to finalize everything.

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AWR solid rear mount. Don*t do it! Haha

I'm a bit scared to do it haha, the vibrations are already getting to me when I'm sitting in my car waiting for work.
But the rear is the last one I need to do.
Was also thinking of just keeping the front/rear solid mounts and doing inserts in the stock ones for the trans/passenger ones.
I ordered the 70 durometer one... you think I should just leave this one in? :p
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by all means try it out and see if you like it. for my my own reasons, i took my solid 70 out a few weeks ago. it was OK around town. cold starts made my dash vibrate. took a trip and cruising around 3k, it droned bad and i didn't like it. i filled my original one and put it back. much better now.
 
by all means try it out and see if you like it. for my my own reasons, i took my solid 70 out a few weeks ago. it was OK around town. cold starts made my dash vibrate. took a trip and cruising around 3k, it droned bad and i didn't like it. i filled my original one and put it back. much better now.

Alrighty, I'll leave that in for the time being and maybe will try to swap it out this summer to see how it feels.
Will likely have a shop install it for me so I can save the headache lol.
Thanks for the input! Did some googling and it seems a lot of people say the same thing.
 
The rear mount is the one that causes the most vibes. Ive got inserts in the other 3 and the rear is filled with 60a liquid urethane. In my auto the vibes are minimal. Keys dont rattle in the door. Empty can shakes a bit in the cup holder but anything in it and its quiet. Before the 60a I had like 88 or 95 inserts in the rear. It was totally unbearable at idle! Just want you to have as much info as possible cuz changing the rear one sucks and u wont wanna do it again for a long time. Id go with window weld or liquid urethane. Its a good trade off for a city driven car with a motor that wont rock.
 
Alrighty, I'll leave that in for the time being and maybe will try to swap it out this summer to see how it feels.
Will likely have a shop install it for me so I can save the headache lol.
Thanks for the input! Did some googling and it seems a lot of people say the same thing.

I found this in case you didn't see it.

Ok so I did mine this weekend after fretting over it for six years. When I bought the car it had inserts on the rear and has always had more vibration than I liked, but as I got it older it bothered me more and more.

Since I was going through the trouble, I bought a new mount, but turns out the original is in mint condition because the inserts doubled as motor mount protection.

Here are my tips.

First of all, the top three aren't bad. Keep the car on the ground. You need to remove the two 10mm nuts that are holding the wiring bundle brace to the fireweall. The top one is fairly easy to get to, just a small ratchet and 10mm socket. The bottom one is hard to find since it is not directly under the top one. It is closer to the driver's side and just over the ridge of the motor mount. Be patient with it and you'll get it off. The cruel bastards at Mazda also used a serrated nut so it never gets easy enough to just spin off with your finger. Needless to say you won't be putting that back on later.

The wire bundle will be a major pain in the ass. I couldn't find a good way to tie it out of the way, I just had to use one hand to pull it away from the firewall to get the sockets on the 3mm nuts holding the mount to the sub frame.

You only need about 16" of extension to get to them, and I was able to get them with U joint, a deep 17mm socket, all in 3/8".

Now the main longitudinal bolt is a different story. This is where good tools come in handy.

Get the car in the air and remove both front wheels and support the engine with a wood block and jack either under the tranny or oil pan. On the driver's side I used 2' of 3/8" extensions, a u-joint, a 17mm short socket, and a 18" breaker bar strategically wedged against the brake caliper.

The reason you need a bar on that side is because otherwise you just end up twisting the rubber of the mount and then just spinning the bolt without removing the nut.

On the passenger is where you want to do your twisting. Do not use 3/8" tools here. I sheered my friend's 3/8" u-joint in half, and one half is permanently in his 10" extension, so that's $15 in tools gone forever.

You want to go buy 3 10" 1/2" extensions and one 6", a 1/2" u-joint, and a 2" breaker bar, and a deep 6 point 17mm socket (impact if you have it). All these tools and rubber mount make for a fair amount of slack, so you have to just keep applying increasing pressure until it gives. Be careful to not fly into your fender or anything else when it finally breaks free. I have a 200ft lb electric impact that did not budge it, and I tried an 18" ratcheting breaker bar that was rated at 375ft-lbs that is now no more. So expect it to be pretty damn hard.

After the initial crack, the nut should spin off pretty easily. Then you can use a ratchet or metal object of choice from under the car to tap out the long bolt.

Getting the mount out of the car is a little difficult, especially since now the car is in the air. I just put a bunch of towels down on the front rail and climbed up into the bay. I ended up lifting the mount from the rear of the car to get it off the three studs first and then wiggling it out of the bracket.

Without the inserts in it, the new mount went back in much easier. Getting the nuts back on the three studs was a pain with that wiring bundle constantly wanting to be in your way, but come around from the intake side with your right arm and get them started with your hand and it should be fine. That reminds me, I removed my intake to come around to the motor mount from the side. The throttle body makes coming from the top very painful, it is sharp.

Feel free to PM me if you need anything explained in more detail.


And this...

https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?96763-How-To-AWR-Rear-Mount-Install
 
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When I did mine I only removed my intake pipe and strut bar. I was not going to go through the hassle of removing my intake manifold
 
Thanks for all the information guys, very much appreciated. I think it persuaded me to hold off on that mount for the time being; will likely be used as a paper weight until then.
But... guess what arrived in the mail today >:)

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