PR5 starting problems

Eran

Member
:
Mazda Protege 5
Hi all. This is my first post here. My wife has a 2002 PR5. She went to start it the other day and it just clicked or something and wouldn't start. The alarm also went off. I recently replaced the alternator and I took the battery to O'Reilly's and had it tested and they said it was good just needed to be charged. I charged it up and reinstalled it but the car still won't start. I have full electrics. The car makes a rapid sort of clicking sound that sounds less mechanical and more like a stun gun zapping something. Very strangely, the tachometer also shows the engine revving to 1-2k rpm, which it definitely is not: the car won't turn over. Any help would be immensely appreciated here. Thanks.
 
Dead cell in battery? Mine is like that because of how old the battery is and the fact that the car sits a lot. It does a lot of what was posted. I can charge it enough to start and run and be OK to drive but won't start without charging if it goes a few days without it being driven. I have done nothing electrical to add any parasitic drain that wasn't already there oem.
 
Check the voltage at the battery then again while the key is turned to the start position.

If the voltage drops too far (perhaps due to a bad cell as mentioned) then the starter relay won't stay engaged.




You could have a bad starter but I would suspect the battery first.
(batteries are cheaper and easier to replace as well and are more inclined to go bad with time)

The bad alternator you replaced could have killed your battery.
 
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That is also what mine does - voltage drop. I have cig lighter digital volt gauge and it'll say 13.x but go below 10 when turning the key to start then the rapid clicking sound. Even if starter engages it just grunts a coupla times before clicking starts.
 
Update:
Thanks for the replies! I finally got the time to do a more thorough inspection of the car today. I cleaned any and all corrosion (which wasn't much) off of the battery terminals and cables with some baking soda water and then started going over the wiring. I found the two 11mm bolts that clamp the negative battery cable to the battery post clamp were a little loose. Not much but just enough to be problematic! I tightened them up and the car started up on the first try. And the second. And the third when I left the lights and fog lights and fan blower all on while starting. The battery was connected well enough to provide voltage to run accessories, but not connected well enough to provide the amperage required for the starter. Physics 222 coming in handy here after all... I'm glad the fix was free!
 
A lot of people replaced our flimsy "straps" with lugs because of the exact same symptoms...

 
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