x DeadTaco x's P5 Build Thread

Oil temp, pressure, and coolant temp gauges would all be nice to have. There is a company called zadatech based out of the uk. I have their oil temp gauge. They offer alot of cool solutions if you don't want to run full size round gauges. Even have multiple gauge readouts on single lcd screens. Awesome stuff.

Just checked their site out earlier today, and that does seem rather innovative. Multiple gauges on a decent sized LCD screen.

Kinda want the typical round gauges, but im curious if getting a Zada Tech would be cheaper overall? How do they mount also, i didnt see anything about that..

I would assume that when the stock gauge reaches the middle mark, everything is warm enough.

But you probably want to keep a much closer eye on your temperatures.

You can get an Elm327 reader (around $10) that plugs into your obd2 port and broadcasts to your smartphone.
Using the torque app it shows you Everything.
But you probably don't want a phone mounted to your dash.

The gauges mentioned by Jackie chan sound really nice...

Yeah, I know a couple of people who have run Torque, but they send it through a tablet they have in their glove-box or something. Usually they have a friend or something with to watch it while they do datalogging? (I think thats the term).

And so, the stock temp gauge should be fine, but an aftermarket oil/water temp combo would be ideal?

Just really don't want to break/ruin my car after finally going turbo lol
 
And so, the stock temp gauge should be fine, but an aftermarket oil/water temp combo would be ideal?

I don't really know about the temp gauge or turbocharging.

I just figure you really have to keep an eye on the temperatures and probably oil pressure.

I believe there is some kind of "spacer plate" that installs between the oil filter and engine where the oil pressure sensor screws in and gets its reading. The oil temperature sensor may thread in there as well.

We do have an oil pressure idiot light but it doesn't switch on until the oil pressure drops to something like one or two PSI.
 
I remember one guy who was cornering hard and lost all oil pressure when his oilstrainer sucked dry.
I think he wrecked his engine and all in a few seconds.

Perhaps (but I'm just guessing) a digital type setup of gauges can have an alarm set to go off the instant you lose oil pressure. ??
 
We do have an oil pressure idiot light but it doesn't switch on until the oil pressure drops to something like one or two PSI.

make sure you DO NOT run a mechanical oil pressure gauge because these will feed oil into the cabin of your car to the gauge from what i understand. be safe and get an electronic one. some will tell you that the oem oil pressure sensor is useless because it comes on way too late (like pcb says, at a very low psi) so they will remove it and replace it with the pressure sending unit their aftermarket gauge comes with. others have opted to use a T and retain the oem sensor. that is up to you. leaving the oem sensor hanging does not make the dash light come on.

i have no clue where the temp sensor is.
 
I plan on running stock boost levels (6-7 psi) so should I still have fuel cut issues? And is that brought on by temperature specifically?



I thankfully have an autostart and park in a university-owned parking lot, so its safer than the street haha.

Going off that though, would using the stock temp gauge or an aftermarket oil temp gauge, be best for gauging temp for the car since it will be turbo'ed?
You shouldn't have fuel cut under 10psi no matter how cold it gets, but once you have the turbo on there it won't take long for you to get bored of 7psi. Cold air is more dense, the increase of oxygen detected by the MAF is what causes the ECU to cut the spark. It's called fuel cut but it's actually spark cut.
Oil temp gauges are not really necessary with a stock-style turbo setup. If it were a built motor running a large turbo, standalone and 20+psi I would recommend an EGT, oil pressure and oil temp gauge but I don't think you will ever need it with your setup.
 
Okay, so I will hold off on aftermarket temp gauges and just go off of the stock temp for now.

I plan on getting a wideband and boost gauge also so.

Thank you for the insight everyone! I appreciate it. I really want to just do this right and as (safely) as possible. My P5 is my DD and im in college, so you know, big turbo/full race car isnt the plan....yet haha.
 
theres plenty of people to offer good advice on here. i recently just turbo'd mine and im in the same boat as you its my daily so i dont want it blowing up haha
 
Decided to put the full mod list up on the first page.

Doing that made me notice that I have done a lot of little/minuscule things to this car haha.
 
So car has two codes being thrown.

P0401 - EGR Insufficient Flow
P0171 - System Too Lean

I expected the EGR issue since my 505 mani doesnt have an EGR spot, so its just plugged in with no vac source.

For the engine running lean though, im guessing vac leak? Maybe one of my hoses is cracked/broken? I replaced IM and TB gaskets and installed correctly, so i doubt its those.

Or could it be since im N/A that the 505 IM is sucking too much air?
 
Could be a vacuum leak, dirty MAF, or bad primary O2 sensor. Try cleaning your MAF sensor and see if that helps. If not, then search for vacuum leaks.
 
That 505 does flow quite a bit more. And if I'm not mistaken, the motor will go a little lean when the egr should be open.
 
Could be a vacuum leak, dirty MAF, or bad primary O2 sensor. Try cleaning your MAF sensor and see if that helps. If not, then search for vacuum leaks.

If my primary was bad, wouldnt that trip a CEL for that also? Like Primary O2 Sensor Circuit Low or something like that?

Ill search for vac leaks with some soapy water during this week.

With the car running lean, it wont be terrible will it? Ive noticed my mpg has gone down, but im not surprised since the engine isnt technically running properly..
 
That 505 does flow quite a bit more. And if I'm not mistaken, the motor will go a little lean when the egr should be open.

I wonder if it flows enough more that my MP3 ECU cant just dump more fuel in to compensate. Like the flow is out of its adjustment range..
 
Did you buy a wideband yet? If not, now would be a good time. Don't want to damage the motor before you get to boost it. And I'd be curious to see what the afrs are like with that mani n/a.
 
The car will be able to run enough fuel, I have ran 14psi with the same 280cc injectors with no problems. But the car won't be running lean when the EGR is supposed to be open if the EGR is not connected to anything, that would only happen if the EGR was connected but the pipe was cut and pulling in un-metered air. And either way the EGR is only open when cruising and at part throttle so you won't be hurting anything anyway.
 
Did you buy a wideband yet? If not, now would be a good time. Don't want to damage the motor before you get to boost it. And I'd be curious to see what the afrs are like with that mani n/a.
Boost gauge would help also to check vacuum

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk

I have yet to purchase a wideband or boost gauge. I am curious what my AFR is, since it is lean enough to throw a code..

The car will be able to run enough fuel, I have ran 14psi with the same 280cc injectors with no problems. But the car won't be running lean when the EGR is supposed to be open if the EGR is not connected to anything, that would only happen if the EGR was connected but the pipe was cut and pulling in un-metered air. And either way the EGR is only open when cruising and at part throttle so you won't be hurting anything anyway.

So the EGR code shouldn't be affecting anything, since the EGR isn't even hooked to vacuum? And I should be fine fuel wise, since I am not boosted yet, and there is no way the 505 manifold flows similar to 14psi of boost.

So vacuum leaks?
 
Yes, vacuum leak for sure. The system lean code just means the ECU is detecting an vacuum leak, there is more air coming in than the ECU expects to see based on the MAF and MAP readings. Does not mean the car is actually running lean enough to cause damage. Do you have the stock injector seals? I know people with the 505 mani have had to upgrade to the '626' injector seals that are donut shaped and do not have ridges like the stock seals.
 
Yes, vacuum leak for sure. The system lean code just means the ECU is detecting an vacuum leak, there is more air coming in than the ECU expects to see based on the MAF and MAP readings. Does not mean the car is actually running lean enough to cause damage. Do you have the stock injector seals? I know people with the 505 mani have had to upgrade to the '626' injector seals that are donut shaped and do not have ridges like the stock seals.

I actually got the 626 seals with the manifold, but reinstalled the OEM ones with the ridges.

I remember talking to Scott? (I think thats the 505 guys name) and he mentioned the OEM ones sealing poorly on the manifold.

Hopefully its that simple.
 
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