Battery drainage WTF?

puckhead95

Member
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2013 CX5 Sport
Howdy y'all. My wife has a 2013 CX5. It still had the original Panasonic battery with about 55 months on it. Cranking was weak and she was told on her last couple of oil changes that the CCA was low so I figured it was time for battery.

I put in the new battery and it seemed hunky dory. Started right up. That was Friday. She drove it Saturday and parked it for the weekend. Tuesday morning she tried to start... no go. What the hell?

I tried it again later and it cranked over but was very weak. So I let it run a bit in the driveway and it charged up enough to let me do some experimenting.

I went and ran an errand, basically a 1 hour round trip drive without using lights except daytime runners and no radio, fan, heat, etc.

After geting home, turned the car off, voltage at 12.65

Waited 15 minutes and checked again, voltage at 10.65

Left car off a bit longer and checked again, at 10.65

Started car, dropped to < 8v for a sec and then kicked up to 13.70

Ran engine at 1500-2000 rpm for 10 minutes with lights, defroster and fan all on at different times. Voltage dipped briefly to as low 13.1v when defroster turned but stayed at 13.7v until car warmed up and then started falling slowly to 13.1v

Turned car off and voltage fell to 10.9 within a minute.

Checked after 5 minutes, at 11.6v

Checked 20 minutes later, back up to 12.0v

WTF? When the battery had enough charge, the starter and engine kicked right over. The alternator must be charging it but the battery won't hold a charge. Bad regulator? I didn't test it before i put it in but maybe it's bum battery?

FWIW, I'm in SoCal. It hasn't been much below 50, maybe 45 at the lowest lately.

Thanks for any ideas on this one.
 
What kind of battery? Are you able to pop off the top caps and see if you actually have enough fluid in it? The old battery didn't give you this many problems so maybe you need to put it on a charger. Yeah, I know it's new, maybe it's just bad.
 
If your 55 month old OE Panasonic battery didn't have similar symptoms and was still able to start up, and you're sure all the connections at battery posts are clean and tight, I'd say your new battery is the culprit. I know it's a hassle but you may have to take the new battery back and try another one. Yeah it happens. BTW, what kind of battery is it?
 
It's a Bosch premium Power. I didn't even consider checking the fill level or the charge. I've never had one bad right out of the gate.

Posts and everything else is pretty damn clean. I'll just take it back and see what happens with a another one.
 
Check my thread on this, post #6 has a link to a TSB -- since yours is a 2013 as well, its entirely possible its a bad connection as mentioned in the TSB. Mine exhibited as a draw on a brand new battery and started to cause all kinds of issues with door locks, communications between the various modules and the security system. The mechanic temporarily fixed it by cleaning the connectors, and I'm taking it back soon to get the new harness installed for a hopefully more permanent fix.

https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123858607-P1260-THEFT-Detected-Vehicle-Immobilized
 
Spent over 5 years in the Automotive stores, bad batteries from new purchase can and do happen...

From the battery assembly line to the final resting spot in your vehicle, there are lots of miles of travel and loading/unloading handling.

The ~10volt readings you get are what make me feel it might have a bad cell.

But if indeed it is a new defective battery, go get yourself a lotto ticket too!(nana)
 
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My car, did not start today either. 3 years and two months old, with 23800 miles on it. Tried jumping with the charger on high amp, but did not turn fast enough, to start. Had to go to work, did not have time, to mess with it.
 
My car, did not start today either. 3 years and two months old, with 23800 miles on it. Tried jumping with the charger on high amp, but did not turn fast enough, to start. Had to go to work, did not have time, to mess with it.

Original Battery? Also did you place the negative jumper terminal on the location as referenced in the manual? I ask because I tried jumping the CX-5 last year when the battery died and could not...until I read the manual and noticed I was doing it wrong:)
 
Original Battery? Also did you place the negative jumper terminal on the location as referenced in the manual? I ask because I tried jumping the CX-5 last year when the battery died and could not...until I read the manual and noticed I was doing it wrong:)
Yep, negative clamp should be connected to engine bare metal on the dead vehicle, not to negative post of the dead battery.
 
I did it wrong then. Thanks for pointing that out. I will try it soon, that way.
I will also measure the parasitic voltage drain, when the car is turned off.
The battery, is still the original. There is not much cold in LA, so I don't think that the cold can be a cause.
 
Spent over 5 years in the Automotive stores, bad batteries from new purchase can and do happen...

From the battery assembly line to the final resting spot in your vehicle, there are lots of miles of travel and loading/unloading handling.

The ~10volt readings you get are what make me feel it might have a bad cell.

But if indeed it is a new defective battery, go get yourself a lotto ticket too!(nana)

Bingo! Looks like you win.

I took it back to the parts store and they suggested doing a charging system inspection for $17. I said "what if it just turns out to be the battery?" and the guy said, "Well we have to charge."

When they told me it was the battery and asked for $17 I basically said so you sold me a bad battery and wanna charge me for finding a problem with your product? I got the charge waived.

30 years of buying batteries... now I know to check it before I even install it.
 
It's a Bosch premium Power.
From PepBoys? And they want $17 for charging system inspection? Bosch should be a good name from Europe but some US battery manufacture made it for them here.

At least you don't have to worry about your battery for another 3~4 years! :)
 
Good to know...to check the battery before it gets put on your car. May have to bring my multimeter with me when shopping batteries.
 
Mine did not start even with the negative to the metal surface.
I had to charge it and only then it started. Today worked like nothing happened.
This is the third time, since new(3.2 years/25k miles). I can't explain it.
 
Yep, negative clamp should be connected to engine bare metal on the dead vehicle, not to negative post of the dead battery.

Mine did not start even with the negative to the metal surface.
I had to charge it and only then it started. Today worked like nothing happened.
This is the third time, since new(3.2 years/25k miles). I can't explain it.


Was able to jump start the car successfully via the black negative cable connected to battery. Follow its path away from the battery until you see the "exposed metal connection" it makes to the body on the strut tower area. Place clamp there.

CX-5_-_SKYACTIV_Engine_Bay.jpg
 
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Early models do not, 2016 does for some but not all. I find it easy to bump the interior light switch when putting away my sunglasses and I believe it will stay on until turned off...
 
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