P1260 THEFT Detected, Vehicle Immobilized.

Bcdad182 · Dec 28, 2016

I have gotten a bunch of electrical problems with my car (outlined on another thread) but part of the weird electrical gremlins is that the security system will randomly go off and sometimes drain the battery (or maybe it's a coincidence) anyway, my dealer who's trying to diagnose said that security codes are difficult to diagnose. My car recently was throwing P1260 Theft Detected, Vehicle Immobilized. Does anyone know if the computer records how the theft was triggered? i.e. does it say which door was opened or the hatch (as far as I know, there's no pin on the hood) -- it's the Mazda factory security system, so surely the dealer should be able to pinpoint the trigger, No?

At this point we're trying to determine if the security system is screwball due to low voltage or if the screwball security system is causing the low voltage (the battery is 2 weeks old!) Lots of snow and salt exposure in the last month, I suspect bad connections somewhere. Grrr.

Thanks!

Chris_Top_Her · Dec 28, 2016

Bcdad182 said:
I have gotten a bunch of electrical problems with my car (outlined on another thread) but part of the weird electrical gremlins is that the security system will randomly go off and sometimes drain the battery (or maybe it's a coincidence) anyway, my dealer who's trying to diagnose said that security codes are difficult to diagnose. My car recently was throwing P1260 Theft Detected, Vehicle Immobilized. Does anyone know if the computer records how the theft was triggered? i.e. does it say which door was opened or the hatch (as far as I know, there's no pin on the hood) -- it's the Mazda factory security system, so surely the dealer should be able to pinpoint the trigger, No?

At this point we're trying to determine if the security system is screwball due to low voltage or if the screwball security system is causing the low voltage (the battery is 2 weeks old!) Lots of snow and salt exposure in the last month, I suspect bad connections somewhere. Grrr.

Thanks!

There are a bunch of steps they have to follow listed in the service manual when troubleshooting that code. Basically testing a handfull of components for errors.

xtrailman · Dec 28, 2016

The UK car also detects the "hood" being open, so I believe it is alarmed.

Bcdad182 · Dec 28, 2016

Unfortunately they are rather fixated on the fact that I was in an accident in May and the front bumper was replaced. They seem to think there is some improper grounding occurring in this location and now want to take the bumper off. I keep telling them to check door switches and the BCM first, but they are insistent. If it is bumper related, I will claim back from my insurance, but if not, it will be an expensive fishing trip. Dealers always seem to think they know better. I bet they find nothing. It's under the dash or in a door is my best guess as the problem only started in the last two weeks when we had snow on the ground and lots of moisture inside and colder than usual temps (-4 to -10C). The front bumper has been exposed to a great deal more moisture for a few months already, I'd think if it was improper grounding there it would have shown up sooner. Just sad that the car seems to have gone from being so reliable to basically useless overnight....probably due to a very minor fault.

xtrailman · Dec 29, 2016

I agree with the dealer, any recent alteration should be eliminated first.

Bcdad182 · Dec 29, 2016

xtrailman said:
I agree with the dealer, any recent alteration should be eliminated first.

Normally I'd agree. Except in this case I was right. It was nothing to do with the bumper replacement and everything to do with corrosion in the connectors for the drivers door. So they incurred extra diagnostics, that if they had taken my advice would have avoided hours of cost. If I was wrong, I was totally happy to pay. Sometimes the customer is RIGHT.

There is a TSB on this, but since I'm out of warranty, I have to pay to fix it. So three hours diagnosis (they spent double but are only charging me for 1/2) and then when they get the parts in another $300 -$400 to fix. Not very happy right now considering that the problem has been well known (first bulletin issued 11/11/13 when I was well within my warranty.) -- Things like this should be grandfathered for a period of time regardless of warranty period IMHO as it is a design/manufacturing defect and not anything I could have avoided by operating the car differently (other than keeping it in a dry environment -- not likely on the Wet Coast of BC!)

xtrailman · Dec 29, 2016

Well i'm glad its sorted for you.

I would be asking Mazda CS for a contribution, the UK CS deals with cases like this very resonably, especially if you have used authorised dealers for servicing.
I'm not impressed with corroding connectors on a modern car, not had that since i had a 2 year old Ford Mk4 Cortina.

Chris_Top_Her · Dec 29, 2016

Yea, next stop is a call to mazda UK. Here in the US you can get a tsb covered outside of warranty usually

TheMAN · Dec 29, 2016

Bcdad182 said:
Normally I'd agree. Except in this case I was right. It was nothing to do with the bumper replacement and everything to do with corrosion in the connectors for the drivers door. So they incurred extra diagnostics, that if they had taken my advice would have avoided hours of cost. If I was wrong, I was totally happy to pay. Sometimes the customer is RIGHT.

There is a TSB on this, but since I'm out of warranty, I have to pay to fix it. So three hours diagnosis (they spent double but are only charging me for 1/2) and then when they get the parts in another $300 -$400 to fix. Not very happy right now considering that the problem has been well known (first bulletin issued 11/11/13 when I was well within my warranty.) -- Things like this should be grandfathered for a period of time regardless of warranty period IMHO as it is a design/manufacturing defect and not anything I could have avoided by operating the car differently (other than keeping it in a dry environment -- not likely on the Wet Coast of BC!)

You should be fighting this with "I told you so"... pay only the cost of diagnosing the door harness/interior, NOT the front end

P1260 THEFT Detected, Vehicle Immobilized.

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