So few days ago it rain really hard some how water got inside my Intercooler and filled the entire piping causing the water to get sucked In the motor causing it to hydrolock. so now I'm looking to get another motor for the car. I would get one from the junk yard but most of them are going to be high mileage . I found a jdm shop a few miles from where I live that has a few mazda motors instock and I'm just wondering is there any way to know the difference between getting and fsde or fsze and making sure I get a 2.0 instead of a 1.6 ? I wouldn't mind rebuilding the motor and forged it but funds are low and I need the car running ASAP maybe by the summer I would be able to rebuild the motor if the crank didn't get damage . also what would I need to swap out to get the car running Before I slap it the car
Motor hydrolocked need a replacement ðŸ˜
- Thread starter nokturnal
- Start date
hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
- :
- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
You would have to pull the valve cover to check what intake cam is in it to determine if it is an FSZE or FSDE. ZE motors have the FSH9 intake cam, they also have a black resonator box on the intake but some other FS engines came with the ZE intake but not the ZE cams and high-compression pistons. Ideally you would want a lower compression FSDE if you plan to run more than ~7psi. It's easy to tell the difference between a 1.6 ZM and an FS, but the FP 1.8 looks very similar. The FS has a different valve cover with the coil packs on top of the motor, FP has the coils mounted above the exhaust manifold on the front of the motor. You can also pull the valve cover to check the markings on the cam shafts.
As far as the swap goes you will have to remove the upper oil pan and swap it over, it has the oil drain fitting for the turbo. You will have to remove the oil cooler stud and swap it, as well as the oil cooler itself. Remove the banjo bolt/nipple on the back of the block under the intake and the hose that runs to the oil cooler, there will be a bolt blocking the port on the n/a motor, just remove it and replace it with the MSP bolt. There is a hard water line that runs from that banjo bolt/nipple to the front of the engine that needs to be swapped, and the hard lines/thermostat housing assembly must be swapped over as well because they have an extra nipple on the back for the oil cooler water fitting. The soft water line that goes under the water neck that has an extra port for the turbo water line must be changed over. And finally the oil pressure sensor must be removed so the T-fitting and turbo oil feed line can be swapped over, the oil pressure sensor threads into the back of the T. That should be everything, aside from the turbo itself obviously. Doesn't matter if the engine comes from an auto or manual the block is the same.
As far as the swap goes you will have to remove the upper oil pan and swap it over, it has the oil drain fitting for the turbo. You will have to remove the oil cooler stud and swap it, as well as the oil cooler itself. Remove the banjo bolt/nipple on the back of the block under the intake and the hose that runs to the oil cooler, there will be a bolt blocking the port on the n/a motor, just remove it and replace it with the MSP bolt. There is a hard water line that runs from that banjo bolt/nipple to the front of the engine that needs to be swapped, and the hard lines/thermostat housing assembly must be swapped over as well because they have an extra nipple on the back for the oil cooler water fitting. The soft water line that goes under the water neck that has an extra port for the turbo water line must be changed over. And finally the oil pressure sensor must be removed so the T-fitting and turbo oil feed line can be swapped over, the oil pressure sensor threads into the back of the T. That should be everything, aside from the turbo itself obviously. Doesn't matter if the engine comes from an auto or manual the block is the same.
So I ended up getting an fsze that's pretty much all he had but he kept telling me they were fsde motors so I ended up getting the cleanest a out of all of them. I already threw everything on from my old motor water oil cooler bottom plate for the turbo drain I'm going to put my 626 manifold ... I've read that the fsze is the same thing as the fsde only difference is the cams intake manifold and the ecu so I'm thinking If I put on my cams and my intake manifold I should be able to bring down the compression if not I guess I'll be running 7psi till I get a proper tune
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Yeah but all he had were fsze motors and in my case I needed one to get the car running again cuz of my job besides I don't really hit high boost unless I'm racing other Than that 3-6 lbs of boost should be fine with it I'll just run low octane fuel for now and if the motor can last me till at least Feb when I'll be able to finish forging the other block I should be OK and if I can get a transmission for my Integra then that will be even better
hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
- :
- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
Compression will not be affected by the intake manifold. FSZE has different pistons to bring the compression to 10.1/10.4:1, it also has a different intake cam and intake manifold as well as a unique exhaust manifold. You obviously will not be using the exhaust mani as you have a turbo but you should use the ZE intake as it is the best intake Mazda used on the FS series engine and will provide much more low end power than the 626. Is the intake cam the FSH9 cam? Regardless you should be running premium (which I know in Cali is only 91) and preferably an octane booster. Even then you are still in danger of detonation in boost.
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- 2003 Mazdaspeed Protege 1660, 2004 Winning Blue RX8, 2005 Mazda6
That's like saying, "Yeah, well the auto parts store was out of engine oil, but had tons of anti-freeze, so I just filled the crankcase with that so I can drive the car"
updates on the car - had a few vacuum leaks but got them fixed . car runs good and I've havent really had to step on it since the motors responds really good with no boost but I did run a lotus a day ago on the freeway and for pushing 10 pounds it handle very well
hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
- :
- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
What did the FPR solenoid on the intake manifold of your ZE look like? Was it a stock style solenoid with a brown dot on top or was it a green solenoid with a completely different connector than the stock protege?
Hmm it looked stock and the dots as I just went to the garage and looked were yellowish ..ohh the motor came with that ze ecu too but it's automatic when I asked the guy where I got the motor at he called his main guy and told him all those motors were low compression not high compression ... but all had the fsh9 intake cam
hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
- :
- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
OK if it has the FSH9 intake cam and the stock style FPR solenoid then it is a high compression FSZE. If the car has the ZE intake but a green FPR solenoid then it may have been from a japanese MPV and it would have the regular FSDE low compression pistons and not have the ZE FSH9 cams.
hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
- :
- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
The green plug for the VTCS solenoid is not on the JDM motors regardless if it was a true ZE or not. The FPR (brown plug) solenoid is the difference. If the solenoid is black with a brown dot exactly like the stock FPR solenoid then it should be a true high compression FSZE. If it has a green FPR solenoid and a different looking bracket then it may be an MPV FSDE with the ZE style intake manifold. You don't have to pull the motor apart to see what kind of engine it is, all you have to do is pull the valve cover.
Did a Lil digging around and took a while but my engine came out of the Mazda premacy I guess same as the mpv engine but this came with the fsh9 cam too but lower compression pistons so that's why I am able to get at least 10psi of boost with no detonation.
