2016 CX-9 Crossbars Install

I had the dealer put my OEM bars on and I did not get the tool to remove them which I want to do now while they are not in use. Is it a Torx 25 bit? It's very hard to get anything in there to even see if the fit is right. Is the tool they come with have some special angle to facilitate being able to turn the bolts more than a quarter turn if that? I'm no mechanic but this seems like a royal PITA to deal with. Might just leave them on but I think it looks better off and then there's the MPG thing.

T30 Torx bit. Here's the instructions.
 
Lucky, fat edge forward.

Bing, OK in the car wash.

The problem is that the clearance is too tight. On that flexible shaft the rise of the curvature of the roof probably won't allow for the length of the socket plus the end of the shaft. The cost is OK, give it a try. I ground down the outside of my T30 socket for more clearance, used a universal joint (with a wrap of tape around it so it wouldn't be too floppy), and it barely worked.

BR, if you're going to leave the bars on, the included tool will get the job done. It'll take time and be frustrating, but it works. If you plan on taking the bars off when you don't use them, I found the Wiha ball end T30 torx screwdriver 36236 to be a big help. A ball end tool is weakened where it is necked down to make the ball, so don't use one where the screw is tight. A 4 mm ball-end Allen driver is a help when the screw is loose and run in or out.
 
So, I'm close to buying a 2018 CX-9 and I want to install the Mazda crossbars. Been reading about how much trouble it is to torque the T30 Torx with a ratchet or Torx screwdriver. Would something like this help? https://www.walmart.com/ip/Neiko-00239A-2-Piece-Flexible-Extension-Bar-Set-1-4-Inch-3-8-Inch-Drive/119260433 Seems like a flexible extension would allow a 1/4" drive to tighten the Torx screws easier than using a universal joint attachment with a solid extension. Thoughts?

I bought a similar one at Home Depot for about $10. I helped a little bit to drive the screws in. However, I used the included tool to tighten the screws.
For the cost of the cross bars, it will do. The Thule crossbars would cost 3 times more, but it will allow for the flexibility of frequent removal.
 
I installed the Mazda crossbars today. Double checked the side (L/R) and front/rear markings on the crossbars. Using the tool that came with the crossbars, it took about 30 minutes. Be sure to lay down a rag on the car while you're tightening the bolts or you'll scratch the paint. This is the setup I used to give the bolts the final torque.
 

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One can look for the shortest T30 bit in the rack and perhaps grind the end of the bit shorter, no longer than needed for full engagement. If you use a grinder, keep the bit cool by dipping it into water frequently; don't let it get hot and soften the steel.

I use a piece of thin cardboard to protect the roof paint, something like the front panel of a cereal box. You used a rag. Whatever works.

I put the cross bars on in the winter and take them off for summer. I've gotten used to the chore. I tried to torque the bolts and gave up. Now I just put them on fairly tight and it's good. I occasionally give the bar ends a good shake, and none have gotten loose. I put Vibra-Tite VC-3 Threadmate thread locker on the threads..."a blend of resins designed to remain flexible and absorb vibration. This unique difference makes VC-3 coated fasteners truly adjustable, removable, and reusable."
 
Not much drop with just the bars. I didn't check closely. About 1.5 mpg drop at highway speed (70 & 80) with my low profile Thule box on top.
 
Debating getting another cx9, past one was totaled. Can anyone tell me the height from the rooftop of the car to the bottom of the cross bar? I have a Yakima case I want to put up there and visually form these pics I think the clamp arms will fit without rubbing but wanted to be certain.

Thanks!
 
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