running BAD at about 300rpm PLEASE HELP

J

Jfunk

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02 protege5 5spd- wrecked rip. 03 protege5 5spd (parts)
running BAD at about 3000rpm PLEASE HELP

Ok so this weekend i decided to check my timing belt, plugs, clutch line. I took the valve cover off and the plugs out and checked everything. At the same time, i took the sway bar, air intake and battery out to check for leaks on my clutch line because the clutch had been acting funny. So anyways i put the plugs back in, the valve cover back on, the plug boots and wires back, the air intake back on, the battery back in and then the sway bar back on. Took it for a drive and it was running BAD. The idle was really low and a couple times it even died on idle while i was rolling to a stop. The worst part is that when i rev to about 2500rpm to about 3500rpm the engine loses power and sputters, hesitates and shakes the whole car. This happens in any gear at any speed. I have no idea what to do and i probably shouldn't drive it if its runs this bad. I need the car for monday for school so quick replies would be extremely helpful. Thanks.
 
Last edited:
horseflesh said:
Does your check engine light come on ? If so do you have a reader to check the codes ?
Click to expand...
No the engine light isn't coming on at all. Also the problem is getting worse. Its having trouble idling and I noticed an occasional tick coming from the left side of the engine. I thought that there might be something withe the timing belt so i took the valve cover off again but the timing belt, cams, lifters are all looking normal. Im planning on not driving the car because im worried about that tick. theres no way it could be out of time because i never touched anything with the timing belt.
 
When you disconnect the battery, the ECU resets itself and it has to relearn how to idle the car.
It takes about 100 miles.
(I don't known about the ticking ??)
 
pcb said:
When you disconnect the battery, the ECU resets itself and it has to relearn how to idle the car.
It takes about 100 miles.
(I don't known about the ticking ??)
Click to expand...

I disconnected the battery before and this hasn't happened. The idle isn't even the biggest problem, the surging is what's bad. I'm starting to think that I somehow might have damaged a spark plug or spark plug wire when I was taking the valve cover off and the tick is the plug grounding out. Not sure though.
 
Is the intake tube intact or does it have a leak after the MAF? It is common for them to tear at the accordion section.
 
hornsfan10609 said:
Is the intake tube intact or does it have a leak after the MAF? It is common for them to tear at the accordion section.
Click to expand...
There's is no visible tears on the intake. I'm scared to run the engine now because it's getting really loud and I don't want to permanently screw anything up. Took off the valve cover again and the timing belts not shredding itself and theres no chunks of metal yet. I don't see how it would be possible to wreck an entire engine by just taking off the valve cover but im kinda sketched out now.
 
Another update, I checked spark and I have spark on all 4 cylinders. Also noticed theres some black soot coming from the tailpipe. I'm assuming a byproduct of running rich.
 
MrGiggles said:
Must have disturbed something.

Vacuum lines for the PCV intact? Cam position sensor okay?
Click to expand...
i checked all the vacuum lines but havent done anything withe the pcv sensor. Thats the one on the valve cover right? Thanks for the help
 
also the noise from the engine has gotten worse and im starting to think its bent/broken valves but dont know how that can be possible because the timing belts intact. Unless it somehow skipped a tooth or two but I still dont understand how that would be possible.
 
Jfunk said:
i checked all the vacuum lines but havent done anything withe the pcv sensor. Thats the one on the valve cover right? Thanks for the help
Click to expand...

PCV is the plastic deal on the rear of the valve cover. Has a short single line that tees into two that go into the intake.

The cam position sensor is on the passenger side front, either on the valve cover or just below it.
 
MrGiggles said:
PCV is the plastic deal on the rear of the valve cover. Has a short single line that tees into two that go into the intake.

The cam position sensor is on the passenger side front, either on the valve cover or just below it.
Click to expand...
Ok, I checked the PCV at it seems do be fine. What is the PCV anyways and what does it do? And for the sensor, I'm not sure how to diagnose if it's working properly. Still no engine lights at all. Also do you know if this particular engine is non-interference or not? Thanks so much for the help.
 
I doubt the engine is damaged, try cleaning the MAF sensor. Did you put dabs of silicone on the end cam caps when you reinstalled the valve cover? Double check the spark plugs and re-seat the wires and coils
 
hornsfan10609 said:
I doubt the engine is damaged, try cleaning the MAF sensor. Did you put dabs of silicone on the end cam caps when you reinstalled the valve cover? Double check the spark plugs and re-seat the wires and coils
Click to expand...
I've rechecked my plugs multiple times but I didn't do the silicone on the cam caps thing. Whats the point of doing that? Also I think I've narrowed it down to either a bad camshaft sensor or bad ignition coils. I'm picking up some coils wires and plugs today and hopefully it will fix the issue. But the more and more I research, it sounds like my timing belt skipped somehow. I hope not. Thanks.
 
hornsfan10609 said:
I doubt the engine is damaged, try cleaning the MAF sensor. Did you put dabs of silicone on the end cam caps when you reinstalled the valve cover? Double check the spark plugs and re-seat the wires and coils
Click to expand...

pcb said:
The valve cover likes to leak at those spots.

Click to expand...
Oh ok. But would a small issue like that really cause serious engine noise and terrible running?
 
pcb said:
No... I don't think it could...
Click to expand...
Ok so I checked compression today and all the cylinders are pretty good (#1@151 #2@149 #3@148 #4@160) that hopefully means I don't have bent valves. Opened the valve cover again and timing belt is still tight and the 2 cams are in time. So I doubt it's out of time (unless somehow the crankshafts out) but then why the heck do I have bad engine noise and rough running? ALSO JUST REALIZED THIS BUT I MADE A TYPO IN THE TITLE BY 300RPM I MEANT 3000RPM LOL.
 
Jfunk said:
Ok so I checked compression today and all the cylinders are pretty good (#1@151 #2@149 #3@148 #4@160) that hopefully means I don't have bent valves. Opened the valve cover again and timing belt is still tight and the 2 cams are in time. So I doubt it's out of time (unless somehow the crankshafts out) but then why the heck do I have bad engine noise and rough running? ALSO JUST REALIZED THIS BUT I MADE A TYPO IN THE TITLE BY 300RPM I MEANT 3000RPM LOL.
Click to expand...
Disregard that last part found out I can edit the title lol. You know your stupid when...
 
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