Fuel Economy

It is actually better for fuel efficiency to accelerate such that RPM will be around the point of max torque, which is also the point of highest efficiency. If you go too easy when accelerating, you'll be at an RPM range which is less efficient.

However, once you reached cursing speed, maintain that speed with a consistent and gentlest of gentle throttle application and avoid unnecessary braking.

I am a pretty aggressive driver, but I usually beat my wife's average because I drive in a consistent speed. Doing 55 on a flat road with no stops, I could easily exceed 30 MPG.

I question that. Efficiency is not synonymous with lack of expenditure. For example, I am sometimes not very efficient with my paycheck, but Ican promise you that the very most efficient corporation out there spends FAR more money in 2 weeks than I do. Same with WOT. 2200rpm may not be the most efficient, but it sure doesn't burn as much fuel to accomplish as 3200rpm.
 
My experience in pressures on our 3 cx-5 is: when running over 38psi on the stock 17" GEOLANDARS I notice the center tread will wear faster then the sides.

Other sizes like the 19", or perhaps some other 17" tires could react better...

I did the chalk test on my tires when I first got my CX-5. For the 17s, I find that with just me in the vehicle, 34-35 psi gave even tread wear.
 
I question that. Efficiency is not synonymous with lack of expenditure. For example, I am sometimes not very efficient with my paycheck, but Ican promise you that the very most efficient corporation out there spends FAR more money in 2 weeks than I do. Same with WOT. 2200rpm may not be the most efficient, but it sure doesn't burn as much fuel to accomplish as 3200rpm.

Keep efficiency of corporations separate. It is not related and much more complex.
This is the question of whether to accelerate to a set top speed at a higher rate for less time or accelerate at a lower rate for more time. If engines had constant efficiency throughout the RPM range, then it would not matter. This is not the case though.
Notice I did not say to WOT, you should instead briskly accelerate.

See step 5 of how to hypermile:
http://www.wikihow.com/Hypermile
 
If any of you are trying to tell me you can tell the difference in tyre wear across the tread face with a 2-4psi change, across the life of a tyre, then you're missing your calling. Should be working for Goodyear or Bridgestone. They would value your undoubted expertise.

Myself, Ive been running at least 4psi greater than recommended on my past 6 cars/15 years, probably around a dozen sets of tyres and never noticeably wore the centre tread out before the edges were gone.

Again, car makers recommendations for pressures are biased towards achieving a comfortable ride. Fuel economy is not top of the priority list.

4-6psi greater than the standard recommended pressures is the quickest and easiest way to improve both fuel economy and tyre life.
 
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36 psi (previously had 28ish) and now my new mpg is 30 or slightly above, 28 mile trip with 38mph avg speed.
I go through 5 miles of inner city roads 45mph, two highways (one is good 60-75 mph other is more or less bumper to bumper but shorter and still moving) through a frontage road 4 miles with 35-45 mph where folks drive over speed limit by 8 to 10 mph.
All in all I do have pretty large # of stop and go scenarios. I have not tried to hypermile much and am happy with these numbers.

Once i do an oil change this saturday - my first service -- I will see how it goes but 31 is doable which is a very nice #. Yes my 2nd car will get its EPA at 76mph and this will not but for my driving profile a combined of 31 is very close to my old car (2013 Corolla).

Qs for my first service :
Can i ask dealer to upgrade my infotainment version? Hoping to get chrome ventilator jewelry removed.
I did hear from the dealer I bought that they may buff small scratches within 12 months but not beyond - is this a Mazda policy and will 2nd Mazda dealer honor it?
 
For a long trip. use cruise control, set speed at 60~65 , you will get good mileage. If you go above 70, your mileage starts reducing. over 80mph, it reduces more. So drive in 60~65 constant speed to get good mileage in highway.
 
For my second fill-up (first was filled by the dealer) and with just over 500 miles on my CX-5, I got 21.4 mpg. Mostly city driving (L.A.) but a couple of longer (25-mile) freeway trips thrown in as well. A bit disappointed and hope that it's just due to the break-in period. Will have better results on Sunday as I just filled the tank for a weekend drive out to Palm Springs and back.
 
If any of you are trying to tell me you can tell the difference in tyre wear across the tread face with a 2-4psi change, across the life of a tyre, then you're missing your calling. Should be working for Goodyear or Bridgestone. They would value your undoubted expertise.

Myself, Ive been running at least 4psi greater than recommended on my past 6 cars/15 years, probably around a dozen sets of tyres and never noticeably wore the centre tread out before the edges were gone.

Again, car makers recommendations for pressures are biased towards achieving a comfortable ride. Fuel economy is not top of the priority list.

4-6psi greater than the standard recommended pressures is the quickest and easiest way to improve both fuel economy and tyre life.
For the last few months I've run my tires at 38psi. I have noted zero improvement in mileage, nor has tire wear increased or decreased.
 
It is actually better for fuel efficiency to accelerate such that RPM will be around the point of max torque, which is also the point of highest efficiency. If you go too easy when accelerating, you'll be at an RPM range which is less efficient.

Actually, that is absolutely NOT true. People believe this because there's a difference between the idea of an engine's 'efficiency' and it's MPG. 'Efficiency' means that you are getting the most 'work' out of the fuel that you are burning. At small throttle openings, the temperature of the burning air/fuel mixture is lower than it is at higher throttle openings. It's not just lower because there's less fuel burned, it's even lower than that. In part because of heat transfer to the piston, cylinder, and head. There's also 'pumping losses'. You get the absolute most work/efficiency out of an engine at it's torque peak. That's where the charge's burn temp is highest, and where the engine recovers the most energy from the burned fuel. It's also not the best place for MPG.

With carbureted engines, the air/fuel ratio *had to* be richer than the 'ideal' 12:1 (ish) at smaller throttle openings, just to get the non-homogeneous mixture to ignite and (mostly) burn. With FI engines, this is improved but is still somewhat of a factor. Stratified-charge engines improve this situation. So does DI.

But we are talking about *miles* per *gallon*, not efficiency. The slower you drive, the higher your MPG. You can check my previous postings for a mpg/mph graph. In your head, add another data point - 30 mph on a flat road nets me 45 mpg on the fuel economy gauge. When you accelerate slower, you are at a slower average MPH for the trip. And your MPG is higher. Think of it from the opposite direction: drag-racing starts obviously use more fuel.

I've spent most of the last 20 years commuting long distances, and that afforded me the opportunity to test various driving techniques on a Mitsu Eclipse turbo AWD, Subaru Outback, Audi A4 turbo AWD, Subie Impreza CVT AWD. Slow accel ALWAYS gave me significantly better mileage (up to 5 mpg for a trip that was netting 34-36 mpg over the course of a full tank of fuel). (Short-shifting to keep the engine near the torque peak didn't reverse the wasted gas of higher acceleration rates.) Slower top speeds was the number one way of significantly increasing mileage, and coasting to stop signs was a very distant third in effect.

About a decade ago, I read an article about a Toyota engine design that lugged the engine at as slow an RPM as needed, to provide the acceleration rate requested by the driver, *while running the throttle wide-open*. That maximized engine *efficiency* with higher burn temps, better fuel homogenization, and lower pumping losses.
 
Actually, that is absolutely NOT true.

MPG is absolutely all about efficiency.
I agree that driving slower will get better efficiency (until some minimum speed, which if you drive slower, it will not). This is not the question.
The question is if you want to drive at a certain specific 'normal' speed of your choosing, how should you get to that speed if you are at a lower speed (e.g. standstill)? Accelerate very slowly, or not?
The answer is that you want to accelerate close to where the engine is most efficient, close to max torque point, which is at 3250 RPM. When you reached that speed, you definitely want to go to lowest possible *constant* RPM to maintain that speed.
 
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The question is if you want to drive at a certain specific 'normal' speed of your choosing, how should you get to that speed if you are at a lower speed (e.g. standstill)? Accelerate very slowly, or not?
The answer is that you want to accelerate close to where the engine is most efficient, close to max torque point, which is at 3250 RPM.

No, you don't. That's exactly why I posted that novella. But feel free to drive as you please. :)
 
For my second fill-up (first was filled by the dealer) and with just over 500 miles on my CX-5, I got 21.4 mpg. Mostly city driving (L.A.) but a couple of longer (25-mile) freeway trips thrown in as well. A bit disappointed and hope that it's just due to the break-in period. Will have better results on Sunday as I just filled the tank for a weekend drive out to Palm Springs and back.

To follow-up, my next 120 miles (about 80% highway and 20% city) got me 31.4 mpg on the gauge. Return trip (about 100 miles, all highway) was a bit less, maybe 29-30 mpg, due to some strong winds and my relying on cruise control for much of the trip. Cruise control does eat up more fuel! I wasn't nursing the car at all, mostly driving at 70-80 mph. I'm pretty happy given the initial mpg reading.
 
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Super economy - my mpg for a single day : drive 7 miles city 45 mph - it has 14-15 lights with 50% chance of a light, highway is all lane shifts followed by 65-70 mile bursts. Add a small detour to drop kiddo.
I think I will have to set the bar at 30 or 31. Thats really good for so many stop starts and some super acceleration. This is better than competition by 2-3 mpg atleast.

I have a stock Touring with Bose. No mods or any weight reduction.
 

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Super economy - my mpg for a single day : drive 7 miles city 45 mph - it has 14-15 lights with 50% chance of a light, highway is all lane shifts followed by 65-70 mile bursts. Add a small detour to drop kiddo.
I think I will have to set the bar at 30 or 31. Thats really good for so many stop starts and some super acceleration. This is better than competition by 2-3 mpg atleast.

I have a stock Touring with Bose. No mods or any weight reduction.

Are you FWD or AWD?
 
Fwd.

I have friends in DFW region that travel down 121 from Frisco, Plano towards airport / Dallas and do similar commutes in their CR-Vs and other CUVs. Their standard is 25ish mpg. I dont think anyone has hit 30 consistently.
I havent even started using the paddle shifters to limit RPMs but noticed that 30 mph - 1200 to 1500 RPM in 5th is sweet spot for this CUV, I do sometimes take that route based on what google tells me but its only 2 to 3 miles so no big help there.
 
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Actually, that is absolutely NOT true. People believe this because there's a difference between the idea of an engine's 'efficiency' and it's MPG. 'Efficiency' means that you are getting the most 'work' out of the fuel that you are burning. At small throttle openings, the temperature of the burning air/fuel mixture is lower than it is at higher throttle openings. It's not just lower because there's less fuel burned, it's even lower than that. In part because of heat transfer to the piston, cylinder, and head. There's also 'pumping losses'. You get the absolute most work/efficiency out of an engine at it's torque peak. That's where the charge's burn temp is highest, and where the engine recovers the most energy from the burned fuel. It's also not the best place for MPG.

With carbureted engines, the air/fuel ratio *had to* be richer than the 'ideal' 12:1 (ish) at smaller throttle openings, just to get the non-homogeneous mixture to ignite and (mostly) burn. With FI engines, this is improved but is still somewhat of a factor. Stratified-charge engines improve this situation. So does DI.

But we are talking about *miles* per *gallon*, not efficiency. The slower you drive, the higher your MPG. You can check my previous postings for a mpg/mph graph. In your head, add another data point - 30 mph on a flat road nets me 45 mpg on the fuel economy gauge. When you accelerate slower, you are at a slower average MPH for the trip. And your MPG is higher. Think of it from the opposite direction: drag-racing starts obviously use more fuel.

I've spent most of the last 20 years commuting long distances, and that afforded me the opportunity to test various driving techniques on a Mitsu Eclipse turbo AWD, Subaru Outback, Audi A4 turbo AWD, Subie Impreza CVT AWD. Slow accel ALWAYS gave me significantly better mileage (up to 5 mpg for a trip that was netting 34-36 mpg over the course of a full tank of fuel). (Short-shifting to keep the engine near the torque peak didn't reverse the wasted gas of higher acceleration rates.) Slower top speeds was the number one way of significantly increasing mileage, and coasting to stop signs was a very distant third in effect.

About a decade ago, I read an article about a Toyota engine design that lugged the engine at as slow an RPM as needed, to provide the acceleration rate requested by the driver, *while running the throttle wide-open*. That maximized engine *efficiency* with higher burn temps, better fuel homogenization, and lower pumping losses.
Years ago Shell Oil put out a series of small informational pamphlets called the Shell Answer Man.They said for best fuel economy you should drive like there's an egg between your foot and the accelerator.
 
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