rear brake calipers

C

CmazdaX9

:
2003 protege 5
this is the story, I removed the rear calipers and sanded painted and reinstalled but when I tried to bleed them the bleeder screws broke off because of being rusty (toetap) any ideas besides getting new ones Thks Alex
 
Last edited:
if i plug the hole some how thinking maybe try to bleed from the lines, thanks for quick reply jackie
 
Jackie chan said:
Try an extractor, but realistically you probably will need new ones.
Click to expand...

What he said ^^^ you can put a torch to it a bit too before trying to unthread it but you probably need a new caliper.

I broke one off a front caliper and a screw extractor couldn't remove it.

You may have a huge bubble trapped in the brake bore if you bleed from the line.
 
Pmazda5 said:
well its off to the wreckers cause I aint paying 300+ for new or rebuilds
Click to expand...

Make sure to test the bleeder screw at the wrecker before you buy it. Bring the wrench with you.

You may as well try to unscrew your broken bleeder screw. Get a quality brand name bolt extractor. (mine was crap and broke off.)
 
well i used an extractor but it broke off when I heated the caliper with it in there, had to drill it out ,now I have a hole ,was thinking to thread it then plug and try to bleed from the bolt where the lines attaches to caliper. I will get a new extractor for the other one, hope for the best ,will soak the hell out of it with rust release oil ,maybe heat if need be. Thanks guys ,Hi Paul
 
Last edited:
Same happened to mine while I was replacing the rear flex hoses.

I was able to bleed them through the banjo bolt, but mine were already full, may not work if they're empty. Worth a shot though.

Heat, and spray with penetrating oil. Enough cycles of that and it should come loose. MAPP gas torch will get the hottest.

Brake fluid boils and becomes pretty much napalm, so be mindful of that.
 
Last edited:
thanks Mr. G I will fill the caliper with fluid first and also the brake line and then attach ,hopefully it might help, thanks
 
You probably don't have to thread and plug the hole.
The bleeder screw seals at the tip so unless you drilled in a good half inch it shouldn't leak.
Test it first to find out.
 
While we're in this area ,I read that these cars have to be bleed right rear then left front visa versa is that correct Thanks
 
So in plane language if I have my 2 brake lines disconnected I should bleed the right side and then the left caliper next ,it doesnt say if the car should be started or if the key should be in the on or accessory position
 
Another tip from recent experience: if you have problems getting a firm pedal when bleeding the rears,
unbolt the calipers and rotate them so that the bleed screws are the highest point of the caliper. I went
nuts for several days trying to get all the air out of mine last time until I did that. Pressure bleeding, vacuum
bleeding, gravity bleeding, helper with the pump&hold method - nothing worked until I rotated the calipers
upwards. Work like gangbusters now!
 
Thanks tlott01 for that tip will keep it in mind when I get around to bleeding if I ever get the screws sorted out,I tried bleeding them but they still felt soft and had to pump them to stop car so maybe your tip will do the trick.Thanks Natay I will look at the video
 
Please log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

G
Remove Rear Brake Rotor without Disconnecting Brake Line?
Replies
5
Views
2K
pcb
P
G
Looking for rubber brake caliper parts
Replies
2
Views
2K
pcb
P
Worminator
Rear brake help (Protege5)
Replies
7
Views
2K
Worminator
Worminator

Latest posts

Back