SoulArmored CX-5 Build

For body roll, do you need swaybar(s).
The sway bars will reduce body roll, but since you're not lowering the center of gravity, I think it increase the chances of a rollover during an emergency maneuver. Lowering springs lower the center of gravity and reduces body roll at the same time, which is why I am leaning towards that upgrade. I might still get an aftermarket rear sway bar in the future though.
 
Not a big modder but trying all i can do to get my mpgs up. I have been averaging 32 ish in mixed driving, I will definitely get this as my replacement filter. What do you reckon life of the factory one should be? I have 7K miles on my car. Another question is can this filter be cleaned every few months?
Reading reviews on Amazon - 3 reviewers said it plain "no mpg improvement" - but the fact that it can be washed and re-used alone is good.
I have this filter as well. I didn't really notice any improvement on mpgs or performance. The only benefit is you can re-wash and re-use.
 
You are right, the best is with lowering springs(or coilover) + swaybar(s).
CS stopped selling them, if I remember correctly.
 
You are right, the best is with lowering springs(or coilover) + swaybar(s).
CS stopped selling them, if I remember correctly.
I also noticed that when I was browsing the Corksport website, looks like they no longer sell a rear sway bar for the CX-5. I think JBR is the only one that sells a rear sway bar for the CX-5.
 
I also noticed that when I was browsing the Corksport website, looks like they no longer sell a rear sway bar for the CX-5. I think JBR is the only one that sells a rear sway bar for the CX-5.

Jbr (wrong wheel drive only, hard race (megan racing US reseller name), ultra racing (wrong wheel drive only)) offer sway bars. I know of an onwer who has a jbr rear sway with stock springs as well. But I'm sure he doesnt run it at full stiff.
 
When you say snug, what do you mean by this? I just installed mine and I found that once the bar was slide over the bolts I had about 2-3mm of play in the bar from side to side. This has me slightly worried as I don't want the bar sliding while under load. I torqued the nuts to 40ft-lbs per the manual but I didn't find it to be snug at all. Should I loosen the nuts, jack the center up to relieve stress on the upper mounts and then retighten the nuts to spec?
 
When you say snug, what do you mean by this? I just installed mine and I found that once the bar was slide over the bolts I had about 2-3mm of play in the bar from side to side. This has me slightly worried as I don't want the bar sliding while under load. I torqued the nuts to 40ft-lbs per the manual but I didn't find it to be snug at all. Should I loosen the nuts, jack the center up to relieve stress on the upper mounts and then retighten the nuts to spec?

There should be 0 movement. The car should be on the ground when tightening the bolts too. Do 1 turn tightening until its snug and see what ft lb it is. The one bolt not convered by the bar should be ok assuming your tq wrench is not out of whack.
 
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There should be 0 movement. The car should be on the ground when tightening the bolts too. Do 1 turn tightening until its snug and see what ft lb it is. The one bolt not convered by the bar should be ok assuming your tq wrench is not out of whack.

I guess I didn't say that right. The nuts tighten down just fine and there is no movement from the bar once they are tight. But with the nuts loose the bar moves about 2-3mm side to side. Is that normal? I suppose it is since the holes are ovalized to an extent but if memory serves me correct my last strut bar had circle holes and didn't move at all on the bolts sticking up. That one was a three piece design and I think at the time the general thought was to raise the car so as to alleviate any stress on the top of the struts, install bar and tighten by turning the center bar to "pull" the tops together, then lower the car back down. I know that's not possible with this Ultra Racing one just wondering if the bar is going to move that 2-3mm, maybe it's 1-2mm when under a corning load. Is the 4 nuts at 40ft-lb enough to prevent that?
 
I will go over what I use and how I dialed in the Soul Red Paint in another post. The first modification I wanted to do right away was exhaust tips. I installed 4" rolled edge stainless tips that were welded on.

IMG_20161014_092843137_HDR_zpsbsqhiy9p.jpg

WOW, I really like those tips. Where did you get them?


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Any advice on removing the badges, Soularmored? (Or anyone that has done it).
I've done it on previous cars. Never a new one, though, so I wasn't as concerned about how it came out. LOL
 
Any advice on removing the badges, Soularmored? (Or anyone that has done it).
I've done it on previous cars. Never a new one, though, so I wasn't as concerned about how it came out. LOL

Dental floss or small test fishing line works well. You'll want the badges to be warm for best results. Let the badges get hot out in the sun or use a heat gun (on low) or a blow drier to soften up the backing. Work the fishing line in behind the badges with a sawing motion. You'll want to get as close to the paint as possible. Once you get the badge off you'll have to deal with what ever is left. Take your time and use some WD40 or the like to get everything off the paint. Once you get all the junk off wash the area and get some wax on it.
 
WOW, I really like those tips. Where did you get them?

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The tips I sourced locally from an exhaust shop and many muffler shops stock an assortment of nice tips. I would try them and they will usually give you a deal on installing them as well if you went the welding route as I did.
 
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Any advice on removing the badges, Soularmored? (Or anyone that has done it).
I've done it on previous cars. Never a new one, though, so I wasn't as concerned about how it came out. LOL

Heat is your friend. I get mine pretty hot with a heat gun where most all badges emblems I can push/peel off with hand pressure and a microfiber (because it's hot). If not though yes fishing line works great to get behind the emblems and will cut right through a warmed up adhesive. I always polish and wax area after.
 
Wheels Arrived. FedEx weighed the box at 22lbs and my home scale at 23lbs. Either way it is very light for size of wheel.

Specs:
Konig Oversteer
Gloss Black
19x8.5 Square Setup
45mm Offset

 
Wheels Arrived. FedEx weighed the box at 22lbs and my home scale at 23lbs. Either way it is very light for size of wheel.

Specs:
Konig Oversteer
Gloss Black
19x8.5 Square Setup
45mm Offset

[emoji7][emoji7][emoji7][emoji7][emoji7][emoji7][emoji7] can't wait to see these on!!


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Yup, nice choice in rims. I might have gone with the "gunmetal" myself, or whatever they called it, but the difference was subtle. Having said that, you could have done a lot worse!

cheers.
 
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