Car cranks, won't start. Need help.

C

CincinnatiKid05

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2002 Mazda Protege5
I recently got a very good deal on a manual 2002 Mazda Protege5. I bought it broken down as the guy said it stalled at idle and then would crank, but not start. I know a decent amount about cars so took on the challenge, but now I am puzzled. The car is reading about 125 +/- 3 pounds across all cylinders. All fuses and relays check out okay, the car has spark to all cylinders and there is fuel being sent back through the return line so I have no idea what else to check. The car cranks fine, but won't fire up. Any help is appreciated.
 
Not the timing belt. The belt is brand new. He had a friend put it on about a week or so before he said it died again. I checked the timing on it and found he was about 2 teeth off from where it really should have been. So I fixed that, but didn't change anything.
 
I had a similar issue and initially checked all fuses and relays. They turned out to be ok, but it still turned out to be the fuel pump relay. We took off the relay and checked that it was still clicking, but it turned out that it would fail when the car was hot; it would cut off and stall the car; then the car would crank but not start. May be with checking into since it's easy to replace and relatively cheap.
 
Here's the big list of things to consider...




 
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CincinnatiKid05 said:
Not the timing belt. The belt is brand new. He had a friend put it on about a week or so before he said it died again. I checked the timing on it and found he was about 2 teeth off from where it really should have been. So I fixed that, but didn't change anything.
Click to expand...

I think you should check the t-belt again.

If the pulleys weren't replaced and they're all wobbly and the spring is stretched you could be easily jumping teeth.
 
125 is really pretty low. I'd be looking for at least 150, but it should be even higher on a healthy engine. All four being low points to a cam timing issue as being a probable cause.
 
MrGiggles said:
125 is really pretty low. I'd be looking for at least 150, but it should be even higher on a healthy engine. All four being low points to a cam timing issue as being a probable cause.
Click to expand...

^^^ What he said...

Check your belt again.

If that friend only did a t-belt, he probably didn't replace the tensioner spring and stretched the hell out of it installing the belt.

 
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I know it is not the cam or crank sensors, they are not throwing any codes and I have tested them with an ohm meter and they checked out fine based on what I found they should put out. I checked the timing belt and it seems plenty tight and it right where it should be to be in time, so how could that be causing a lack of compression? Thanks and I will check a few more things out when I get home from work later
 
I do not think compression is my issue for a no start. The previous owner said that it died at idle and then would not re start and it has not run since. The compression is lower then a healthy engine, but it is above minimum to run and this test was taken with the car outside in about 50 degree weather so the engine was cold. With a running engine and it warmed up, I am sure it could probably be at least 140 or higher as the pistons may expand a little. The car has a lot of miles and I may rebuild or swap the engine in the future, but for the time being, i want the car to run and not just throw money and parts into it unnecessarily.
 
Alright, borrow or make a noid light and see if you have injector pulse, or see if it will start on ether. Check fuel pressure too, just because it is running through the return does not mean there is enough to run the engine.

Incorrect cam timing reduces the amount of air that can enter the cylinder. No air, no compression.

Are the plugs wet after cranking?
 
Okay, I will have to rent a fuel pressure tester or something to double check it, but I could not get the car to even start up for a split second on starting fluid.

https://youtu.be/xgs8Foyr0iU

This should be a link for a video of my car cranking. Anybody know why it cranks and then sounds like it slows down for one to reset? Idk what that is.
 
So, just to verify, with the balancer mark aligned at TDC compression, both marks on the cam pulleys line up on the inside?

Have you verified TDC with a screwdriver? Crank pulleys can slip, rendering the marks useless.

What about the cam pulleys? Are the keys still intact and bolts tight?
 
Another thing to check is the cam gears themselves, they are the same cam gear for both the intake and exhaust. The only difference is the slots on the cam gear fit on a peg on the end of the cam shaft, but they fit into different pegs depending on which cam. It's possible they were installed incorrectly when the belt was done.
 
Yes, I set the timing like the diagram above and checked with a screwdriver that piston 1 is at TDC when the crank is lined up according with the mark. And I have the cams set properly. So, when i try to listen, I do not hear the fuel pump prime. Is there a way to test the pump without using a fuel pressure tester?
 
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