Forged build with high hopes and then no start.... Great...

So here's the background,

MSP threw rod, so ordered FS-ZE, forged it, used UR Crank pulley that was on the DE. Upgraded to Exedy stage III clutch and Findanza flywheel.

Tranny reverse lock out and internal shift change rod broke, so repaired that with parts from stealership and welded differential.

Replaced battery, starter (both gave out from trying continuously to start)

Electrical Mods include PLC Wideband, HDi EBC, SSAFC, and Greddy turbo timer (which all power on when key is in on position)
WB and timer are wired to ignition switch, SSAFC and WB are wired on ECU harness.

No the issue:

Fuel pump is not kicking on in any scenario (Key on, Key start, etc)
I can manually turn pump on jumping the pins where the fuel pump relay is
Bench tested fuel pump relay (and every relay and all fuses while I was at it)
Have NOT yet checked for spark, seeing fuel isn't even getting to the engine.
Checked continuity from fuel pump relay, to DLC pin F/P, to ECU connector pin 80, all good.
Checked resistance across CKP and CMP and all tested fine. Conducted short to ground test on both and tested fine.
Tried another ECU and no change

Reason for all the wire testing is a ground wire started smoking while cranking. It's a body ground located on driver's side right near the DLC port. There's 5 grounds connections, with 4 of them being double wire and one larger black wire. The one single black wire is the one that practically melted. Car does not crank without it connected. cut back on harness to find it connects to another wire.
Researched this wire using 2002 Protg Wiring Diagram Supplement and diagram indicates that it goes to the neutral switch located on the bottom of the tranny. Not sure how that could be related but obviously an issue.

Not really sure where to go from here, I would really just like to get this thing up and running after 6 months of work.

Thanks in advance.

Okay, well, I think I asked in your other thread and never got an answer, but this thread does answer it.

WHAT CAM GEARS/CRANK GEAR ARE YOU USING?!!?!?!?!

Never mind, not your thread...

But, the question still stands- what cam/crank gears are you using?

$20 says you used the FSZE cam and crank gears...

And another $20 says if you install the MSP cam gears with the correct pickups on them, you'll start.

I've heard the crankshaft gear is different, but I honestly don't remember swapping it out during any of my swaps.

I've probably got more experience R&Ring these engines in the BJ chassis than probably anyone.

Original MSP cam gears (has 3 pickups, but so did the ZE) and Unorthodox Racing Crank gear. ZE crank gear was obvious that it would need to be swapped and the shipper of the ZE so kindly added a note saying that the crank gear might need to be swapped.

Here is the current pulley setup



and the cam gears pulled off the ZE

jwforeman said:

Original MSP cam gears (has 3 pickups, but so did the ZE) and Unorthodox Racing Crank gear. ZE crank gear was obvious that it would need to be swapped and the shipper of the ZE so kindly added a note saying that the crank gear might need to be swapped.

Here is the current pulley setup

View attachment 215224

and the cam gears pulled off the ZE

View attachment 215225

Click to expand...

Are you getting a crank signal?

As in signal from the CKP? haven't checked for that.

Question is how can I check that without a fancy scanner/o-scope?

Can I simply hook up a multimeter to the equipment side of the CKP plug and see reading when it's cranking?

In my ZE swap I changed the crank pulley to a DE, changed the crank sensor, left the cams gears alone but changed the cam sensor. It fired right up.
To me it looks like either your crank pulley is undersized or your "sensor teeth" is bigger than it needs to be.

See that theory would make sense, you're right it is an undersized pulley but teeth gear is the same exact size. Before the zoom zoom boom, that crank pulley and gear teeth were exactly the same. so if it ran before why would it not now?

So tried to use a scanner and came up as error, checked key off voltage to ECU and good, key on voltage and also good. Checked all grounds pins at ECU connector and also good.

So does anyone else concur with faulty ECU?

I don't think the ECU would fail out of the blue like that. Is the fuse for the connector good?

all fuses are good, including the one under the steering wheel and the 15a one by the DLC connector

Did you change the crank sensor to the MSP one?

Have you checked any other inputs or outputs from the ecu? I/Os you should be getting with key on and/or cranking?

I haven't checked any I/O, following the Symptom Troubleshooting Manual (Section 01-03B) under the NO.6 CRANKS NORMALLY BUT WILL NOT START [FS]. It gives a list of possible causes:

No battery power supply to PCM
• Air leakage from intake-air system
• Open PCM GND or vehicle body GND
• Improper operation of IAC valve
• EGR valve malfunction
• No signal from CKP sensor due to sensor, related wire or incorrect installation
• No signal from CMP sensor due to sensor, related wire or incorrect installation
• Low engine compression
• Vacuum leakage
• Spark leakage from high-tension leads
• Poor fuel quality
• PCV valve malfunction
• Air cleaner restriction
• Restriction in exhaust system
• Disconnected electrical connector
• Open or short circuit in fuel pump and related harness
• Inadequate fuel pressure
• Fuel pump mechanical malfunction
• Fuel leakage from injector
• Fuel injector clogging
• Purge solenoid valve malfunction
• Pressure regulator solenoid (PRC) system malfunction

So I followed step by step with step 1 being:

STEP INSPECTION RESULTS ACTION
1 • Verify following:
— Vacuum connection
— External fuel shut off or accessory (kill
switch, alarm etc.)
— Fuel quality: proper octane,
contamination, winter/summer blend
— No air leakage from intake-air system
— Proper sealing of intake manifold and
components attached to intake manifold:
EGR valve, IAC valve
— Ignition wiring
— Electrical connections
— Fuses
— Smooth operation of throttle

All checked out so moved on to step 2:

• Connect WDS or equivalent to DLC-2.
• Turn ignition key to ON.
• Retrieve any DTC.
• Is “DTC” displayed?

And stated above, I got an communication error and the manuals response to that is:

Communication error message displayed:
• Inspect for following:
— Open circuit between main relay and PCM
terminal 71 or 97
— Open main relay GND circuit
— Main relay is stuck open.
— Open or poor GND circuit (PCM terminal 24, 51,
76, 77, or 103)
— Poor connection of vehicle body GND

Thus reason I haven't checked any other I/Os.
Also the reason I checked all the power (key on/key off) and everything checked fine. At the end of that section it states:

• Verify test results.
— If okay, return to diagnostic index to service any additional symptoms.
— If malfunction remains, refer to related Service Bulletins and perform repair or diagnosis.
• If vehicle is repaired, troubleshooting completed.
• If vehicle is not repaired or additional diagnostic information is not available, replace PCM.

Have you resolved this yet. I had a very similar issue last week. Turned out to that i had my maf and tps plugs backward.

Really? I will have to check that, almost sounds to simple in all honesty.

What were all your symptons?

jwforeman said:

Really? I will have to check that, almost sounds to simple in all honesty.

What were all your symptons?

Click to expand...

Crank no start, all systems go, just no fuel or spark. Unresponsive ecu, swapped ecu no dice, tested nearly every wire in the ecu plug. Realised those two were backwards, flipped them, ecu powered up, was able to scan, and the car started right up.