Help with trailer wiring for 2016 CX9

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Mazda CX9 Signature 2016
I have read previous posts on this, but need some advice on how to get to the wiring plug on the back passenger side.
I removed the plastic trim piece across the back where the trunk latch is. Now I trying to pry off the interior panel on the right.
I don't want to break anything so I could use a few pointers on what to do to get it loose so I can plug into the receptacle in there.
Thanks in advance to all suggestions.
CX9 signature in Machine Gray picked up a week ago.
 
I'm ready to do mine real soon now....

Take the panels out to expose the spare tire. Take the right side compartments out to expose the jack. Try taking the interior panels off from the bottom; I think that's the way to get into there.

By the way, the hitch receiver, wiring, and a gizmo to keep the flat 4-pin plug organized, including shipping, was $155 from etrailer.com.
 
I bought everything at etrailer as well. When I didn't get a quick response to my post I just did it. Here are a few pointers I picked up. In addition to taking out the jack, I removed 2 other plastic parts at the bottom right. This made it easier to pull the panel far enough away from the connector so I could plug into it. Then remove 2 bolts (one at the top black plastic hook and the other behind some trim around the bottom chrome hook). Then I used a plastic trim remover tool I got at NAPA to pry open the clips that held in the panel. Take out enough clips so you can get behind the panel. I worked from the bottom. Once you get to the plug it is easy to put in the wire harness and put it back together. Everything worked fine. I haven't figured out how to get the flat 4 plug out through the trunk floor so I just take it out and close the door over it when I use the trailer.
I have one more challenge: my trailer uses a 5th wire that needs to connect to the backup light circuit. I have no idea where the wire to the backup light is at the moment.
 
Can you get to the backup light wire if the taillight is removed, as for bulb replacement?

Tip--buy a $5 trailer wiring tester to check the new wiring before all the panels are snapped back into place. And, it's good to test the wiring any time.
 
Mazda Tow Wiring 0000-8E-N30 installation manual
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5ImX7QQU_vnRmtkeXdiTjlBU0E

Mazda Trailer Hitch 0000-8E-N31 installation manual.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5ImX7QQU_vnVHpFbmV1NmN4LVk


Couple of question, as stupid as some may sound.

1) This is for 2016 CX-9, correct?
2) On the hitch install, the removed panel in step 1c never gets reinstalled? Does this create any issue with the underbody in terms of road debris/dirt getting to places this panel help protect? I kind of thought this panel would just get trimmed instead of discarded. I ask because I live in northeast, so underbody debris/dirt/road salt is big issue here.
3) On the wiring harness install, this is the first I've come across that showed how to route cable between outside to inside of car. Other installations I found either left cable inside and you just put it out trunk when needed, or involved removing tail light an splicing off those wires. My question here is two fold. Will having wire through new grommet effect noise in vehicle at all or pose any risk of exhaust gas infiltration? Guess this depends on how tight grommet fits around wire and also why they want you to add silicone.

Thanks, I apologize if some of the above questions seems silly or stupid. I'm doing install myself and could definitely figure it out, but sometimes doesn't hurt to learn from what other people previously did before I venture in!!
 
Step L

Couple of question, as stupid as some may sound.

1) This is for 2016 CX-9, correct?
2) On the hitch install, the removed panel in step 1c never gets reinstalled? Does this create any issue with the underbody in terms of road debris/dirt getting to places this panel help protect? I kind of thought this panel would just get trimmed instead of discarded. I ask because I live in northeast, so underbody debris/dirt/road salt is big issue here.
3) On the wiring harness install, this is the first I've come across that showed how to route cable between outside to inside of car. Other installations I found either left cable inside and you just put it out trunk when needed, or involved removing tail light an splicing off those wires. My question here is two fold. Will having wire through new grommet effect noise in vehicle at all or pose any risk of exhaust gas infiltration? Guess this depends on how tight grommet fits around wire and also why they want you to add silicone.

Thanks, I apologize if some of the above questions seems silly or stupid. I'm doing install myself and could definitely figure it out, but sometimes doesn't hurt to learn from what other people previously did before I venture in!!



Step L has all of the various trim pieces, screws and gaskets reinstalled. That plate would be reinstalled at that point. By now, I'm sure you've gotten this all put back together but I thought I'd pass this along.
 
I bought my hitch from Etrailer, easy install. Extra set of hands does help and I backed my car up on ramps. The wiring I got from a local dealer and was easy. No need to fully remove the passenger side panel nor do anything in the 2nd row as the instructions state. You can get your hand in behind the cargo area panel once it is free from the clips in the back.
 
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