My new (used) 02 P5

S

stormkyori

:
Mazda Protege5
Hey guys so I've had my new ride for about a week now when my CEL came on yesterday on my drive from SD to LA here in California. I'd say about halfway it came on an didn't go away. I did buy and use a fuel system cleaner before the fuel up that day. I wanted to see if it made a difference. I went to a local smog place to get the codes and he just stated I needed new CAT. Didn't show me the numbers or anything and considering how tight I am on cash at the moment $550 foe a new one is a little steep right now. I went to another place and they showed me the codes which were luckily just two P0421 & P1250. I don't understand what the "fouler" trick is supposed to do besides making I guess my car think something is fine when it's not. I know plenty of people have done it considering the posts and videos but am I damaging my vehicle. I just got it and I must admit, it's a blast to drive so I really wouldn't want to let it go or end up "breaking" it. I've been sending applications left and right to hopefully make a couple bucks on the side to help with restoring the peeling paint and other mods I may want in the future. I just really want to make sure I can pinpoint what needs to be done before spending. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
 
stormkyori said:
Hey guys so I've had my new ride for about a week now when my CEL came on yesterday on my drive from SD to LA here in California. I'd say about halfway it came on an didn't go away. I did buy and use a fuel system cleaner before the fuel up that day. I wanted to see if it made a difference. I went to a local smog place to get the codes and he just stated I needed new CAT. Didn't show me the numbers or anything and considering how tight I am on cash at the moment $550 foe a new one is a little steep right now. I went to another place and they showed me the codes which were luckily just two P0421 & P1250. I don't understand what the "fouler" trick is supposed to do besides making I guess my car think something is fine when it's not. I know plenty of people have done it considering the posts and videos but am I damaging my vehicle. I just got it and I must admit, it's a blast to drive so I really wouldn't want to let it go or end up "breaking" it. I've been sending applications left and right to hopefully make a couple bucks on the side to help with restoring the peeling paint and other mods I may want in the future. I just really want to make sure I can pinpoint what needs to be done before spending. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...

No. There are two catalytic converters on this car.

One is in the intake manifold and primarily lessens warm-up emissions. The second 02 sensor monitors it's function, and a P0421 will set if it is not functioning.

The main cat is in the midpipe and does not have an 02 sensor to monitor it. This cat is responsible for the vast majority of emissions. As long as it is in place and functional, you can still pass emissions without a problem.
 
So two things I've noticed driving this car. Seeing as how I was rather negligent on my first car and that ended up costing me I'm almost paranoid/cautious about this one. Often when I shift into second, I hear this loud thump. Yes, it may not be as clean sometimes as it's a bit different from my VW I owned previously but could it be a mount that's possibly gone? Lastly, would be my coolant reservoir tank is cracked and broken in two places and I make sure to check the level and well as the radiator but it splashes out as I smell the coolant burning out once I park somewhere. Is there a quality difference say from Ebay or like an autozone. the bay has them for like $15 or so where the parts store has them somewhere above $50-$60 I feel like hitting a junk yard but I also had a bad one I bought for my previous vehicle. thoughts?
 
stormkyori said:
So two things I've noticed driving this car. Seeing as how I was rather negligent on my first car and that ended up costing me I'm almost paranoid/cautious about this one. Often when I shift into second, I hear this loud thump. Yes, it may not be as clean sometimes as it's a bit different from my VW I owned previously but could it be a mount that's possibly gone? Lastly, would be my coolant reservoir tank is cracked and broken in two places and I make sure to check the level and well as the radiator but it splashes out as I smell the coolant burning out once I park somewhere. Is there a quality difference say from Ebay or like an autozone. the bay has them for like $15 or so where the parts store has them somewhere above $50-$60 I feel like hitting a junk yard but I also had a bad one I bought for my previous vehicle. thoughts?
Click to expand...

I doubt there is any difference in quality between Ebay and the parts store on a plastic reservoir. Check Rockauto too.

The thump is almost certainly a motor mount.
 
checklist for non fouler trick



Ok so just assembled what I think are the tools for the non fouler to get rid of CEL because my time is almost up from DMV. Is something missing or wrong?
 
Spray the non fouler with oil while you're drilling it...

(ask me how many drill bits I burned up...)
 
pcb said:
^^^ What he said... You want 18 mm...
Click to expand...

Got it! Can you guys help me out with another thing?

Previous user stated I might need a new mount so I went on google looked up a diagram for the motor mounts and came across the one that I can at least visibly see that's done is #3

I checked out RockAuto because their prices are good and I've already purchased from them but the discrepancy in names from different people make it hard to know who's right. I looked it up on oreilly and the #3 for them is rear. Then I'm told that that mount is on the front of the engine so it should be front. There's like 3 fronts on RA website, front. front left, front-right. Then I've seen it called side motor mount. I order two but I'm hoping at least one is the correct one.
 
The rear engine mount can be a big PITA to replace... You have to break off a stud to gain access.

You may be able to get by with just the other three being replaced..



The side engine mount is different between the ATX and manual transmission for some strange reason that makes no sense... (I forget which side)
Make sure they ask if its for the ATX or manual transmission.

 
Last edited:
pcb said:
The rear engine mount can be a big PITA to replace... You have to break off a stud to gain access.

You may be able to get by with just the other three being replaced..
Click to expand...

its most definitely the #3 and it looks exactly like the two pictured. But are you saying it's called "side engine mount"?
 
Last edited:
stormkyori said:
its most definitely the #3 and it looks exactly like the two pictured. But are you saying it's called "side engine mount"?
Click to expand...

The number 4 engine mount is different for the ATX and manual trans. as shown in the diagram...

But... The number 3 mount is different too...

The stud or stem is a different length. Some replacement engine mounts don't come with the stem and it just doesn't reach....

One guy managed to connect it but it was pulling his whole engine sideways.


The service manual doesn't mention anything about this difference.
 
I fixed my engine mount myself...

I just jammed a couple of pieces of urethane rubber in there....

It's being working great for years...

 
pcb said:
The number 4 engine mount is different for the ATX and manual trans. as shown in the diagram...

But... The number 3 mount is different too...

The stud or stem is a different length. Some replacement engine mounts don't come with the stem and it just doesn't reach....

One guy managed to connect it but it was pulling his whole engine sideways.


The service manual doesn't mention anything about this difference.
Click to expand...

I know the stem apparetnly raises the price as the dealer had it for $209 or show while auto part store was $180 and I have to use the stem I have.
 
pcb said:
The number 4 engine mount is different for the ATX and manual trans. as shown in the diagram...

But... The number 3 mount is different too...

The stud or stem is a different length. Some replacement engine mounts don't come with the stem and it just doesn't reach....

One guy managed to connect it but it was pulling his whole engine sideways.


The service manual doesn't mention anything about this difference.
Click to expand...

I am currently running a AT mount on my manual. When I called the Mazda dealer and asked for the difference (because the price was certainly different) he could not tell me the difference, and then talked to a tech. The tech had no idea either. Its been installed for a month or two now and everything seems good. My old mount was so bad I did not compare the two lengths, I just convinced myself that the new mount was hard to install because it was new, and I was installing AWR inserts as well.
 
Ilikebikes said:
... My old mount was so bad I did not compare the two lengths, ...
Click to expand...

I'm thinking that if you get a mount as a complete set with the mount and the stem you can install it.

But if you're expected to reuse the stem then you need to get the correct mount so that things line up.

I'm guessing the MTX mount is beefier and oriented closer or further from the engine as a whole.

It sounds like you got a new stem as well so you were able to iinstall it.
 
I just grabbed my old one and compared. Its basically like the picture above of the two mounts. There is a difference. It did seem like a PIA to install. I wonder if I should press out the old stem and use it in the new mount? Just pressing it out of an old mount and into a new one seemed like it would be a chore. The only reason I went with a factory mount is because I wanted to use the AWR inserts and I could not find any aftermarket ones with the same "fittings" as the inserts. I paid $99 for the auto mount, cheapest I could find the manual was $130 or $140 I believe. Someone needs to compare the auto mount to the manual mount. Must be why the passenger motor mount is so slightly different.
 
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