Engine Knocking. Spun Rod? Probably... Help?
- Thread starter Luken10
- Start date
It is true that if the compression is good there is no need to do a leak down test. However there really is no safe way to confirm the compression is good without putting the engine in the car. A leak down test can be done with the engine in or out of the car. It is also a much more comprehensive test, if the engine fails a leak down test will tell you what parts inside the engine are failing. That kind of information gos a long way when your trying to convince the guy who sold you the engine that's it's bad.
Yep.
I had the same issue a few yrs back. Drove it a couple weeks more. Got worse quickly. On the way to swap out motor, rod went through block. I wouldn't drive it any longer.
As Mrgiggles points out, can't just fix one bearing.
Used replacement motor only lasted about 1.5 yrs. have tried to source another. Best I've found is $650 + $150 shipping. Engine+ Labor to replace + seals and rear mount puts repair at about $1600. If you have low miles and a manual, it worth fixing. If u can do the work yourself, definitely fix. If automatic, IMO, used P5's are out there. One in Madison WI (I know u live in CA, just saying) 97k for around $3k.
Most fun car I ever owned. Good luck.
As Mrgiggles points out, can't just fix one bearing.
Used replacement motor only lasted about 1.5 yrs. have tried to source another. Best I've found is $650 + $150 shipping. Engine+ Labor to replace + seals and rear mount puts repair at about $1600. If you have low miles and a manual, it worth fixing. If u can do the work yourself, definitely fix. If automatic, IMO, used P5's are out there. One in Madison WI (I know u live in CA, just saying) 97k for around $3k.
Most fun car I ever owned. Good luck.
Where did you get your first replacement engine? What happened to it that made it not last? I want to know what to look out for.
I have a manual with 180k miles. I agree with you, this car is a TON of fun. I've done rally cross, track days and everything in between. Part of me wants to save for a cheap sports car, but it's not going to haul all of my stuff and sit five people. $1600 is alot easier to swallow than another used protege for 4k (going rate in my area). If I can some how source a quality engine, I definitely want to fix it.
I have a manual with 180k miles. I agree with you, this car is a TON of fun. I've done rally cross, track days and everything in between. Part of me wants to save for a cheap sports car, but it's not going to haul all of my stuff and sit five people. $1600 is alot easier to swallow than another used protege for 4k (going rate in my area). If I can some how source a quality engine, I definitely want to fix it.
I disagree. You only need the starter and head installed to check this. Timing system is required but the Ecu and sensors are not. That said, a leak down test is more comprehensive. THAT said, both are supposed to be done with a warm engine so the Pistons have expanded.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I've done the rebuild 3 times including a seized crank. Machinist swapped the rod caps and I didn't check when I reassembled. Was breaking it in and pushed clutch to turn around and it locked up.
Machine shop did an offset grind on the rod journals and I installed oversized bearings. Then I used plastigauge to check clearance. Ran fine.
Lots of other stuff to do while your at it. I need to overbore to address some cylinder taper and ovality.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Machine shop did an offset grind on the rod journals and I installed oversized bearings. Then I used plastigauge to check clearance. Ran fine.
Lots of other stuff to do while your at it. I need to overbore to address some cylinder taper and ovality.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Would it still be worth it to try and get a compression test on the spot before I purchase? Or is it pointless if the engine isn't heated up?
Sadly this is pretty much where my car knowledge begins to taper. I'm really not too sure what half of that meant, ha! Exactly why I'm not comfortable doing the rebuild instead of a swap.
A cold engine shouldn't make much of a difference. It's still a valid test.
Look for variation between cylinders more than the actual number, which can vary a lot depending on the type of tester.
Last edited:
Thanks for the help so far everyone. I am looking to buy an engine in the next couple of weeks, but have a few more questions.
I have read in a few places that VICS won't work on the FSZE intake manifold, essentially making it pointless without the JDM ECU or standalone. Is this true?
Also, does anyone know if there is a difference in exhaust manifolds between these two heat shields? Both engines are supposed to be FSZE's. I have read that some are supposed to come with a 4-2-1 header.
I have read in a few places that VICS won't work on the FSZE intake manifold, essentially making it pointless without the JDM ECU or standalone. Is this true?
Also, does anyone know if there is a difference in exhaust manifolds between these two heat shields? Both engines are supposed to be FSZE's. I have read that some are supposed to come with a 4-2-1 header.
Jackie chan
Member
- :
- Pro5
You won't find the bottom half of that exhaust mani. I was looking for years.
You are completely right. I found the difference in photos. I haven't seen the bottom half anywhere while searching for these engines. That's probably the only thing that will bolt up to that manifold.
I found the difference in photos. Looks like I'm not going to worry about which manifold I get. If I want to worry about more power I am just going to have to go aftermarket. I just didn't want to leave any power on the table by buying the wrong engine. I really wanted to get an engine with the wiring loom + ECU, but the complexity of rewiring for a left hand drive car seems out of my league. That extra power and possibly reliability is super appealing, but I'm trying to be realistic. The only member I have found to have successfully rewire the loom is FOCUS, who hasn't been on the forums for years. With his help and experience I wold want to try it, but as for now I am just going to worry about getting my car running again.
I just found an engine that comes with the second 2-1 part of the header. It just so happens to be one local to me as well! What are the chances? Engine looks slightly rough, though. A tad bit more surface than I am used to in California.
The shop says $550 for the engine and $600 to install it. That seems like a seriously good deal. I'm just worried they won't know all of the specific things that need to be changed for the FSZE to run correctly.
Also, don't I want to keep VICS? Doesn't it help with the powerband?
*Edit- And it appears to have an ecu attached to the wiring loom!! Except it's an auto... Does that mean even if down the road I wanted to install the JDM ecu, it wouldn't work with my manual transmission?
The shop says $550 for the engine and $600 to install it. That seems like a seriously good deal. I'm just worried they won't know all of the specific things that need to be changed for the FSZE to run correctly.
Also, don't I want to keep VICS? Doesn't it help with the powerband?
*Edit- And it appears to have an ecu attached to the wiring loom!! Except it's an auto... Does that mean even if down the road I wanted to install the JDM ecu, it wouldn't work with my manual transmission?
Last edited:
Thanks for that MrGiggles! I was about to start making a comprehensive list from all of my research, so that saves me a bunch of time.
Sadly the engine with the 4-2-1 header and ECU has been sold
Apparently they thought it was available in their San Diego location, but they just found a receipt showing that it was sold. That's a pretty big bummer. It's pretty hard to even find a 4-2-1 header any more for these cars.
Sadly the engine with the 4-2-1 header and ECU has been sold
Apparently they thought it was available in their San Diego location, but they just found a receipt showing that it was sold. That's a pretty big bummer. It's pretty hard to even find a 4-2-1 header any more for these cars.Quick question about the sensors you mention. From my reading, I haven't seen anyone mention the TPS, IAC, or ECT. Why do you recommend swapping them over?
Just to ensure compatibility.
There is a good chance that they are the same, but you will not know for sure. I didn't want to track down any potential problems from them.
