K&N Typhoon Intake System on CX-5?

Has anyone tried installing the K&N Typhoon Intake system (made for the 2014-2016 Mazda3 and Mazda6) on a CX-5? I read a review of it on Amazon where the owner said he installed it on a 2016 CX-5 and it fits perfectly.

I'm not after big horsepower numbers, but I'm looking for more sound on acceleration and hopefully a few more HP for passing on the highway. From the dyno charts I've seen from Corksport, K&N and AEM, their intakes all add a little more HP past 4k RPM, which is exactly where your RPM would be if you were WOT and passing on the highway.

Pass. Its a short ram filter with a partial heat shield.

I'd rather get a generic or name brand short ram intake combined with CS's cold air box. You get air via the stock cold air intake location. Plus a lot safer in flooded areas. Only thing is not sure if they have one for CX-5's yet.

http://www.corksport.com/blog/corksport-cold-air-box-mazda-3-mazda-6/

CX-5um said:

Pass. Its a short ram filter with a partial heat shield.

I'd rather get a generic or name brand short ram intake combined with CS's cold air box. You get air via the stock cold air intake location. Plus a lot safer in flooded areas. Only thing is not sure if they have one for CX-5's yet.

http://www.corksport.com/blog/corksport-cold-air-box-mazda-3-mazda-6/

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I think that a partial heat shield is better than no heat shield option at all. The CS cold air box unfortunately only fits a Mazda3 and Mazda6, so that is a no go for me. If I remember correctly, CS had ran into issues trying to make their cold air box fit into the CX-5. I am not holding my breath on them releasing one for the CX-5. I've also seen posts where people were suggesting that the AEM intake heat shield was better designed than the CS cold air box. (I think this was on Mazda6forums or Mazda3Revolution)

The CX-5 has pretty high ground clearance and the intake filter placement is pretty much level with the throttle body on the engine. I can't see myself or anyone else driving that deep into flooded water. If you are that deep into flooded water, I think you have more pressing concerns to worry about.

The AEM intake system, which is also made for the 2014-2016 Mazda3 and Mazda6 is another option. It reuses part of the OEM cold air inlet/ducting. However it is because it reuses those parts that I am worried it will run into fitment issues on the CX-5. I also haven't seen a review yet where someone said it fits well on a CX-5.

finch204 said:

I think that a partial heat shield is better than no heat shield option at all. The CS cold air box unfortunately only fits a Mazda3 and Mazda6, so that is a no go for me. If I remember correctly, CS had ran into issues trying to make their cold air box fit into the CX-5. I am not holding my breath on them releasing one for the CX-5. I've also seen posts where people were suggesting that the AEM intake heat shield was better designed than the CS cold air box. (I think this was on Mazda6forums or Mazda3Revolution)

The CX-5 has pretty high ground clearance and the intake filter placement is pretty much level with the throttle body on the engine. I can't see myself or anyone else driving that deep into flooded water. If you are that deep into flooded water, I think you have more pressing concerns to worry about.

The AEM intake system, which is also made for the 2014-2016 Mazda3 and Mazda6 is another option. It reuses part of the OEM cold air inlet/ducting. However it is because it reuses those parts that I am worried it will run into fitment issues on the CX-5. I also haven't seen a review yet where someone said it fits well on a CX-5.

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I was comparing other cold air options which would've gotten air behind the fog lamps. There's no moving external air there and its closer to water. Its filter would've been as high as your upper wheel lugs. The CS air box provides the better/safer cold air option because it uses the stock air inlet up high above the grille to obtain external airflow. Any SRI even with FULL airbox getting air from inside the engine bay will intake hotter air than the stock Mazda unit. The problem isn't restriction the problem is you're taking in hotter air. Don't be surprised if you get better sound but with less torque.

I ultimately stuck with AEM's dry flow (drop in) filter for both Mazdas. It gets its air externally via the stock air inlet near the front grille. I inspect and clean it every 6 months or so due to my desert conditions. This AEM filter material is very popular for off roaders racing or having fun in the desert. No oil to use unlike the K&N's to mess up your MAF. No noticeable loss in TQ or HP unlike reported by many SRI' consumers. Some people even switched back to stock Mazda intake after seeing there before/after dyno runs. With the AEM drop in filter I notice the engine revs easier. Cheap route as well.

If you do want a SRI system cheaper check on Ebay or local craigslist. You may get lucky and find a a used one cheap.

CX-5um said:

I was comparing other cold air options which would've gotten air behind the fog lamps. There's no moving external air there and its closer to water. Its filter would've been as high as your upper wheel lugs. The CS air box provides the better/safer cold air option because it uses the stock air inlet up high above the grille to obtain external airflow. Any SRI even with FULL airbox getting air from inside the engine bay will intake hotter air than the stock Mazda unit. The problem isn't restriction the problem is you're taking in hotter air. Don't be surprised if you get better sound but with less torque.

I ultimately stuck with AEM's dry flow (drop in) filter for both Mazdas. It gets its air externally via the stock air inlet near the front grille. I inspect and clean it every 6 months or so due to my desert conditions. This AEM filter material is very popular for off roaders racing or having fun in the desert. No oil to use unlike the K&N's to mess up your MAF. No noticeable loss in TQ or HP unlike reported by many SRI' consumers. Some people even switched back to stock Mazda intake after seeing there before/after dyno runs. With the AEM drop in filter I notice the engine revs easier. Cheap route as well.

If you do want a SRI system cheaper check on Ebay or local craigslist. You may get lucky and find a a used one cheap.

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I didn't think CS intake box fits the CX-5. Have you checked?

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It's about half the price of a tune, which will net you real hp/tq gains more than any intake/exhaust. But it's better than an shielded sri concerning heat soak while slow or idle.

I took a look at the Corksport cold air box again. It looks like it might fit the CX-5 based on pictures but I can't be sure that it will. I've actually asked them about fitment with the CX-5 in the product's FAQ section; I haven't gotten any answer and this was weeks or months ago. Their return policy will also not allow you to return the item in case it doesn't fit, so I'm not even going to try that route. At least with the K&N and AEM intake systems purchased from Amazon, it is easy to test fit everything and return it if it doesn't fit.

I haven't run into any issues with the K&N oiled filters. In fact I just washed and re-oiled an intake filter last week for a 2010 Mazda3. Instructions are pretty clear on how to oil the filter. I can't see how the oil will get into the MAF, unless you oil the inside of the filter or you just simply put too much (in which case you are already not following the clear instructions).

Not really interested in tuning the CX-5 as it is my wife's car and I want it to be reliable. Plus I already have my Mazdaspeed3 to play with tunes and other stuff. I'm only looking for an improvement in passing power if at all possible with a bolt on intake system.

I understand that from an intake air temps perspective, the best way is to stick with the OEM airbox. However I am a little puzzled as to where the air is really coming from. If you open the hood on the CX-5, you will see that it has the inlet duct there, but I have trouble trying to see where it is getting the air from. Closing the hood and looking at the open slots in the grill, I don't see one that will feed the inlet duct. My best guess, is that it is getting air from the small cutout in the center where the hood is being latched (where the hood latch spring is located). If that is true, from a flow perspective that might not be ideal as well. I imagine it is easier for the engine to ingest air without all the ducting in place. That is just a guess though as I am not automotive engineer. I'm sure Mazda has tested that system and it is working fine for normal driving conditions.

The air coming through the rad, the low pressure area at that slot + the shape of the engine cover and the heat shield over the manifold help create a flow in the front and out behind the engine

Chris_Top_Her said:

The air coming through the rad, the low pressure area at that slot + the shape of the engine cover and the heat shield over the manifold help create a flow in the front and out behind the engine

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I might have misunderstood what you are saying, but it sounds like the oem airbox is getting air that has passed through the radiator already? If so, then it is getting heated air...

finch204 said:

I might have misunderstood what you are saying, but it sounds like the oem airbox is getting air that has passed through the radiator already? If so, then it is getting heated air...

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Not not the oem, it only gets that hood inlet (but the engine is putting suction on it too). I was getting at the the air flow in the engine bay, which of course will be none when stopped which is where the sri is worst. Once moving it, at least on our car around here in 85 - 100 weather, it's about 10 degrees higher than ambient (accordijg to the dash) from what I've logged with the torque pro app.

Chris_Top_Her said:

Not not the oem, it only gets that hood inlet (but the engine is putting suction on it too). I was getting at the the air flow in the engine bay, which of course will be none when stopped which is where the sri is worst. Once moving it, at least on our car around here in 85 - 100 weather, it's about 10 degrees higher than ambient (accordijg to the dash) from what I've logged with the torque pro app.

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Yeah the SRI is at a huge disadvantage when stopped because it is just surrounded by hot air. 10 degrees above ambient while cruising on the highway seems about right for a SRI. I see 7-10 degrees above ambient for the SRI on my Speed3 when cruising on the highway.

So I did some more research and here are my findings:
- There is definitely some extra pickup gained at high RPMs with just a SRI on the 2.5 engine. This is based on reviews I've read from Mazda3 and Mazda6 owners who installed CS and K&N SRIs.
- The drawback to the SRIs are loss of low end torque in city driving. The same Mazda3 and Mazda6 owners are reporting that after going from the SRI back to the stock airbox, they noticed much better low end torque/grunt/pickup (though they also report losing the extra pickup at high RPM).
- The 2.5 engine with its high compression ratio is even more sensitive to high intake air temps. A cold air box is a must if you do a lot of city driving.
- The Corksport Cold Air Box has rubbing and rattling issues. This is being reported by both Mazda3 and Mazda6 owners.
- The stock airbox is getting air from the hood seals above the headlights. A common mod suggested by Mazda6 owners is to cut off part of the hood seal above the headlights to increase the amount of air that gets fed to the stock airbox.
- SRI airflow at high RPM is around 170 g/s, while stock airbox is around 130 g/s. Looks like all the bends in the stock airbox/inlet setup and the relatively small access to air is a restriction compared to SRIs.
- Improved throttle response is reported by owners who fuel up with 93 octane vs just 87 octane. I tried this recently and it seems like the car is running smoother and has better throttle response, but I really have no way to qualify that.
- A tune is the best power mod you can do for the 2.5 engine. You can pair it with a SRI or just a drop-in filter and it would still be a good mod. I have not read any reviews that said a tune didn't do anything positive for their car.

So I've come to the conclusion that it is best to pair the SRI with a tune and a cold air box if available. If you're not getting a tune, then it is better to just get a drop-in filter like the AEM dryflow or K&N oiled drop-in filter. Since no one makes a SRI for the CX-5 with a cold air box, I've decided to just get the AEM dryflow drop-in filter for now. The CS airbox is a no go since it has on-going issues even for cars it was made for. I'll revisit the possibility of installing a SRI once I drive past 32k miles on our car, but more than likely I'll keep using the drop-in filter. I'll also be more open to tuning the engine once it gets past 60k miles.

Other possible mods that I will look into, that can help with highway passing power:
- Racing Beat axle back exhaust. Their dyno graph shows small gains at high RPMs.
- BC coilovers will improve handling and allow you to lower the car, which could help reduce drag at highway speeds. I am finding that the CX-5 has trouble keeping up highway speeds above 65 mph.
- Lastly, lighter wheels that are not much wider than stock should help as well. Some options here are the TSW Nurburgrings at 19x7.5 or 19x8.5. I've also seen TireRack list the Enkei Raijins at 19x8 for the CX-5.

Grab the tsw hamburgerrings 19x8 imo. You can come out lighter than oem 19 and get better cornering grip. Tsw offer a good assortment of lightweight wheels at affordable prices

I have the K&N shield from my '14 6 mounted on my '16 CX-5. Fits and works fine! I also have a OV tune for it. Zero loss of torque on the low end and nothing but positive results. Yes, there will be higher inlet temps while sitting in traffic but as soon as I'm moving the intake temps are within 5-8* of ambient. There is a pic of it in my build thread.

Chris_Top_Her said:

Grab the tsw hamburgerrings 19x8 imo. You can come out lighter than oem 19 and get better cornering grip. Tsw offer a good assortment of lightweight wheels at affordable prices

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The TSW 19x8 Nurburgring comes with +35 offset; I fear that might be too aggressive and would cause rubbing. I want to stay at a higher offset like +40 and above. However you seem to be running a wider wheel with +15 offset and you reported no issues with rubbing. So I guess the CX-5 has more leeway when it comes to wheel fitments.

davesxx01 said:

I have the K&N shield from my '14 6 mounted on my '16 CX-5. Fits and works fine! I also have a OV tune for it. Zero loss of torque on the low end and nothing but positive results. Yes, there will be higher inlet temps while sitting in traffic but as soon as I'm moving the intake temps are within 5-8* of ambient. There is a pic of it in my build thread.

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I assume you ran with the JBR SRI for a bit without the heat shield and a tune? How did your CX-5 perform then?

Would you say the heat shield fixed the "loss of torque down low" issue? Or was it the tune? Or was it both?

finch204 said:

I assume you ran with the JBR SRI for a bit without the heat shield and a tune? How did your CX-5 perform then?

Would you say the heat shield fixed the "loss of torque down low" issue? Or was it the tune? Or was it both?

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Yes, I ran the JBR for a bit but that was when the outdoor temps were cool. The OV tune for the JBR intake was/is the best bet. Shield only helps keep hot air away. I monitor intake temps and knock retard with my old MSD Dash hawk and although
intake temps rise while idle, they immediately drop when moving. If I'm doing 35 mph my intake temps are 5-8* from ambient.
All told, to answer your original question, yes, the shield works! I did not use the rest of the K&N kit as Mat from OV Tune said the JBR SRI was the best he tested. He can make your fuel trims work if you use the K&N kit also. I believe that any SRI on it's own will cause a slight loss in low end power,,,, as others have said.

Seeing your from Texas, I'd definitely run some kind of shield and possibly open up the surround by your fog light and add a flex hose to direct some outside air towards the filter,,,, something I plan on doing also!

davesxx01 said:

Yes, I ran the JBR for a bit but that was when the outdoor temps were cool. The OV tune for the JBR intake was/is the best bet. Shield only helps keep hot air away. I monitor intake temps and knock retard with my old MSD Dash hawk and although intake temps rise while idle, they immediately drop when moving. If I'm doing 35 mph my intake temps are 5-8* from ambient.
All told, to answer your original question, yes, the shield works! I did not use the rest of the K&N kit as Mat from OV Tune said the JBR SRI was the best he tested. He can make your fuel trims work if you use the K&N kit also. I believe that any SRI on it's own will cause a slight loss in low end power, as others have said.

Seeing your from Texas, I'd definitely run some kind of shield and possibly open up the surround by your fog light and add a flex hose to direct some outside air towards the filter, something I plan on doing also!

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Thanks for the info. Interesting note on the JBR SRI being the best. I'm kinda tempted to get the JBR SRI, but I'll just wait till I pass 32k miles, especially since this is the wife's daily driver.

Is the ambient air temp value that you are monitoring, the same value that is shown on the dash? Reason I am asking, is I've started monitoring using Torque Pro and I've noticed that my intake air temps on the stock air box/filter are at least 5 plus degrees above ambient while cruising. Is that what you see as well?

finch204 said:

Is the ambient air temp value that you are monitoring, the same value that is shown on the dash? Reason I am asking, is I've started monitoring using Torque Pro and I've noticed that my intake air temps on the stock air box/filter are at least 5 plus degrees above ambient while cruising. Is that what you see as well?

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Yes, I compare my Dash Hawk readings to the displayed temp on the dash. Interesting that you factory air box temps are close to the same as my shielded SRI! (While moving anyway)

davesxx01 said:

Yes, I compare my Dash Hawk readings to the displayed temp on the dash. Interesting that you factory air box temps are close to the same as my shielded SRI! (While moving anyway)

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It is very interesting. I'll continue to monitor the intake air temps and will use another device just for comparison. If this is true though, then not only is the stock airbox restrictive, it is also not providing cooler air while cruising. Its only advantage is slowing down the rise of intake air temps while stopped, which still increases anyway.

Wasn't sure if I should create a new thread or not, but I'll just update this one instead. I got an email from AEM last week telling me that their cold air intake system is now officially listed as compatible with a 2016 CX-5. I'm more than likely going to get this once the wife's CX-5 goes over 32k miles.

finch204 said:

Wasn't sure if I should create a new thread or not, but I'll just update this one instead. I got an email from AEM last week telling me that their cold air intake system is now officially listed as compatible with a 2016 CX-5. I'm more than likely going to get this once the wife's CX-5 goes over 32k miles.

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Interesting! http://www.aemintakes.com/search/product.aspx?prod=21-779C

I like that shield design, and the partial use of the factory air inlet.