My P5 seems to lose power when I make long right turns when low on gas. I assume fuel is being pulled away from the pickup. I did replace the fuel tank with a new (but aftermarket) tank after the old one developed a leak. I got the car with the leak so I didn't know if it was the same before replacing the tank. Any thoughts on this? As a side note P0455 (gross evap leak) also showed up at some point after replacing the tank.
Fuel Starvation
- Thread starter hpmaxim
- Start date
The stock tank is baffled to keep the fuel from sloshing around. I wonder if the one you have is. The P0455 code is a leak in the fuel system. For a protege, that usually means you didn't screw the gas cap on enough...Go until it clicks. But with your car's history, I'll bet it's the tank. I'd look for someone parting out a Protege and buy the gas tank. I'd also check all the lines. A fuel leak isn't something to fk around with.
I blew up the engine in my P5 at under 10K miles - and got a new one under warranty - because of 'oil starvation due to cornering". These little cars corner too well for their own good! lol
I blew up the engine in my P5 at under 10K miles - and got a new one under warranty - because of 'oil starvation due to cornering". These little cars corner too well for their own good! lol
I found the fuel tank I bought:
http://www.carparts.com/details/Replacement/Fuel_Tank/REPM670102.html
Interestingly, since when I bought it, carparts.com seems to have "delisted" it. Although its still on the website, its no longer associated with the Protege5 (or any other vehicle).
A friend of mine brought up another possibility. That the tank itself is fine, but may be slightly different from the original tank, and as a result the pump might not be reaching the bottom of the tank or something similar. Do you think this is a possibility? I don't recall anything seeming abnormal when I installed it.
As for the leak, I have no reason to believe there is a fuel leak. It could be a vacuum line, in fact, its more likely that its a vacuum line than a fuel line. I guess I just have to look around and hope I can find it.
http://www.carparts.com/details/Replacement/Fuel_Tank/REPM670102.html
Interestingly, since when I bought it, carparts.com seems to have "delisted" it. Although its still on the website, its no longer associated with the Protege5 (or any other vehicle).
A friend of mine brought up another possibility. That the tank itself is fine, but may be slightly different from the original tank, and as a result the pump might not be reaching the bottom of the tank or something similar. Do you think this is a possibility? I don't recall anything seeming abnormal when I installed it.
As for the leak, I have no reason to believe there is a fuel leak. It could be a vacuum line, in fact, its more likely that its a vacuum line than a fuel line. I guess I just have to look around and hope I can find it.
It's a large EVAP leak... If you were leaking liquid gas you'd know it.
You can do a smoke test to find the vapor leak.
This method works well to find out why the inside of your car is all dirty too...
pcb, those pictures were very illustrative of the solution. Thanks...
However, I've been told that a "large" EVAP leak is only relative to a "small" leak, and may itself be quite small. After doing a lot of research I'm not really sure how you use a smoke machine. It seems like in addition to smoke machines and adapters to connect it into the fuel and evap system, you also need some sort of specialty tool to control the status of carious EVAP solenoids which, I'd think anything like Torque should be able to do, but can't.
However, I've been told that a "large" EVAP leak is only relative to a "small" leak, and may itself be quite small. After doing a lot of research I'm not really sure how you use a smoke machine. It seems like in addition to smoke machines and adapters to connect it into the fuel and evap system, you also need some sort of specialty tool to control the status of carious EVAP solenoids which, I'd think anything like Torque should be able to do, but can't.
If it were me and I were being cheap and creative...
I would buy a new gas cap and drill a hole through the old one then install a little tube in it.
Then I'd blow on it and listen for a leak.
I know what you mean about the different solenoids (like the CDCV that crapped out on my car)
You might just get lucky and find the leak???
Then you could tell everybody you blew up your car...
I would buy a new gas cap and drill a hole through the old one then install a little tube in it.
Then I'd blow on it and listen for a leak.
I know what you mean about the different solenoids (like the CDCV that crapped out on my car)
You might just get lucky and find the leak???
Then you could tell everybody you blew up your car...
pcb, as a matter of fact... I do have emissions "testing" in my area. I say "testing" in quotes because its not real testing. They hook your car up to an OBD2 tester, and if the monitors are ready and there are no codes, you pass. If the monitors aren't ready, I think they tell you to come back when they are. If they are ready and you have codes, you fail. I have watched my OBD PIDs and the moment the monitor is ready, the code appears. So I NEED to get this taken care of.
If the problem is tank related and I'm going to the trouble of buying a cap, drilling a hole, and hooking up a hose, I might as well put some smoke in. I was working on the assumption it wasn't going to be that easy.
I called up Carparts.com, and they admitted that when I bought the tank it was listed as fitting a Protege5, but it is now listed as fitting a Protege, but not the Protege5. Of course, they don't want to give me my money back (as if that makes up for all this aggravation).
If the problem is tank related and I'm going to the trouble of buying a cap, drilling a hole, and hooking up a hose, I might as well put some smoke in. I was working on the assumption it wasn't going to be that easy.
I called up Carparts.com, and they admitted that when I bought the tank it was listed as fitting a Protege5, but it is now listed as fitting a Protege, but not the Protege5. Of course, they don't want to give me my money back (as if that makes up for all this aggravation).
The problem like you said is the various solenoids and what state they are supposed to be in. Some are three way valves that switch at various pressures and temperatures.
I remember my CDCV switches with the ignition off to vent the vapors to the charcoal canister.
I've tried to follow the FSM EVAP system a few times and it's hard to makes sense of.
In my area you don't have to get the code cleared. You just have to spend about $400 towards getting it fixed.
Here's some info that might help...
I remember my CDCV switches with the ignition off to vent the vapors to the charcoal canister.
I've tried to follow the FSM EVAP system a few times and it's hard to makes sense of.
In my area you don't have to get the code cleared. You just have to spend about $400 towards getting it fixed.
Here's some info that might help...
I think there is something like that in my state, you have to show that you spent at least a certain amount of money trying to fix it (I have a feeling it's 750 dollars) and they'll waive the test, but the waiver is only good for THAT test, you still need to get it tested in 2 years. Point is, I need to fix it, whether I fix it or I bring it to someone. But with the exception of alignments, I haven't given my car to someone to get fixed in a REALLY long time. It might be about 15 years now.
As for baffles, I'm pretty sure my tank has baffles in it. You'd think it wouldn't be hard for am aftermarket manufacturer to just copy a form. Its hard to imagine they screwed this up, but still I don't see more plausible alternatives unless its possible to either install the pump in an incorrect orientation or it somehow can't go in as deep as the original.
I have the FSM on my computer haven't really looked at it yet. I have two other projects that are ahead of fixing this. These systems always struck me as comvoluted and I feel like I'm looking for a needle in a haystack. Like a vacuum leak on the intake except it could be practically anywhere and you can't spray starter fluid to test it. Add to that the dizzying array of solenoids that I don't necessarily have control of and I'm really dreading this.
As for baffles, I'm pretty sure my tank has baffles in it. You'd think it wouldn't be hard for am aftermarket manufacturer to just copy a form. Its hard to imagine they screwed this up, but still I don't see more plausible alternatives unless its possible to either install the pump in an incorrect orientation or it somehow can't go in as deep as the original.
I have the FSM on my computer haven't really looked at it yet. I have two other projects that are ahead of fixing this. These systems always struck me as comvoluted and I feel like I'm looking for a needle in a haystack. Like a vacuum leak on the intake except it could be practically anywhere and you can't spray starter fluid to test it. Add to that the dizzying array of solenoids that I don't necessarily have control of and I'm really dreading this.
So back to this problem... (assuming a new t-stat fixes your latest problem...)
You should start with the easiest things to test. The purge control valve is top of the list. I'm pretty sure the lists go in order of most likely.
If the purge control valve is stuck open, you will never get any EVAP pressure... And it's in the engine bay.
A new gas cap is easy too. (and gives you a spare if you want to drill a hole through it...)
Check the o-ring on your gas cap for cracks and rot and the mating surface of the filler neck for rust and crud.
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