Hi all. I just finished my engine rebuild/turbo build and when i hooked everything back up, the manual transmission is locked up or something. When i try to shift into 1st gear and ease off the clutch, the car stalls and dies if i fully release the clutch. The wheels are not spinning even when jacked up on 2 stands. The paasenger axle spins freely. The driver side axle has some resistance. I bled the clutch line and i bled the driver brake caliper. The shift linkage is hooked up. The transmission has a crack thats about 6 inches long. It starts near the area where the shift linkage touches the transmission (behind the differential) and ends near the speed sensor under the transmission (near the main bearing support plate). The stick also wont shift into 3rd or 5th gear. I have to fight to get into 2nd or reverse. 1st and 4th are smooth. I tried quicksteel to patch the crack. It slowed it down but its still leaking. I added fluid to see if it would help me shift. It didnt. Can anyone help me figure out whats wrong? The only thing i changed in the trans was the throwout bearing. Also i snapped the wire that connects to the reverse light switch (drivers side front bottom of the trans).
Help! Transmission wont engage
- Thread starter Dimentio
- Start date
Gee, I wonder why it won't work?
They don't crack for no reason. There could have been some debris that got between the main and countershaft locking them up, or it may have jammed into two gears at once.
Does the car roll?
Bottom line, you need to find another trans. JB or Quick Steel isn't going to last for long. The crack will flex and break whatever you slather on there.
Yes, from underneath.
You need to buy/borrow/build a cradle to support the engine from the top, then you can remove the subframe and pull the trans.
I was reading this thread vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123740097-Half-Shaft-wont-click-in
and I read that the passenger side axle has a c clip? I know I had a very hard time getting the pass. axle in place, as it wouldn't go all the way in. Both axles were out, I started with the pass side. It felt like something was blocking the axle from going all the way in. I had to stick my finger into the driver side of the diff. and lift a gear or something that was blocking the pass. axle from going in. Once I held this gear up, the axle popper right in. I fear whatever I did caused the trans to lock up. Anyone hear of this happening before?
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123740097-Half-Shaft-wont-click-in
and I read that the passenger side axle has a c clip? I know I had a very hard time getting the pass. axle in place, as it wouldn't go all the way in. Both axles were out, I started with the pass side. It felt like something was blocking the axle from going all the way in. I had to stick my finger into the driver side of the diff. and lift a gear or something that was blocking the pass. axle from going in. Once I held this gear up, the axle popper right in. I fear whatever I did caused the trans to lock up. Anyone hear of this happening before?
Apparently you're not supposed to pull both axles out of the transmission at the same time or some gear inside can fall out of place.
You are supposed to pull one axle then put in something like a big screwdriver to support the gear then pull the other side.
I was under the impression that the gear could fall right inside requiring disassembly of the transmission... Sounds like you were lucky.
You are supposed to pull one axle then put in something like a big screwdriver to support the gear then pull the other side.
I was under the impression that the gear could fall right inside requiring disassembly of the transmission... Sounds like you were lucky.
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I remember reading that they can fall out all together...
(although I don't recall anyone having to open their transmission to retrieve the gear)
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Both axles have a c-clip.
The carrier bearing holds the joint shaft in without a c-clip.
This thread maybe helpful...
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123854303-HELP!-Can-t-get-driver-side-axle-to-click-in
I like number 5... A little tap with a copper hammer.
Some guys have gone to get a quote for having wheel bearings done.
The quote includes a new axle... They don't even try removing it from the hub. They just cut it and take the entire knuckle to the machine shop.
It's a REALLY good idea to put anti-seize on the splines of the axle that goes into the hub... (not the end that goes into the trans... just to clarify).. Makes it way easier to remove if you need to do bearings or your drive shafts crap out or your seals start leaking.
(my thought is, don't use ordinary grease... It could cook with the heat and glue the shaft in...)
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