Home transmission flush success

Just an update. I flushed the transmission fluid yesterday in my backyard. It was a piece of cake. Here are my notes:
1. Very easy. Easy access to the transmission cooler return hose. Disconnect from engine/trans (needle nose pliers), connect to 3/8" clear tubing (about 6' using a barbed hose connector) and run it into a clear empty bottle that can hold at least 4 quarts. Put the bottle where you can see it from the drivers seat. Start the car, and watch the dark fluid pump out and into your bottle. Once it starts to sputter (about 3 quarts), shut off engine and put in three quarts of new (from the top, dipstick tube, long funnel is good). During one or two of the pump outs, move the trans selector through the positions and hold it each for a few seconds. Keep this up (pump out and refill) until new fluid pumps out into your bottle. Top off remaining fluid. You're done.

2. The transmission pumps out about 3 quarts before it sputters.
3. Marking the sides of the bottle at the quart levels is helpful.
4. I recommend at least 15 quarts. I used 10 quarts and it still wasn't all new fluid coming out (mixed) by the time I ran out and had to stop (it was a Sunday and I couldn't get anymore). I am going to do this again soon and try to get the fluid a little clearer (though it looked much better once I had finished).
5. Very easy, took me only hour, hour and a half. When I do it again, 45 mins tops.
6. This method get nearly all of the old fluid out. It pumps out the torque converter, cooler, valve body etc.
 
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Pootie Tang, can you take a picture of where this return line is. I would like to do this also. Did you use 3309 or T-IV fluid.
 
I used the Mazda Dealer stuff (Mazda fluid). I think it said both 3309 and T-IV on the bottle.

Here's the line.

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Pootie Tang is it the smaller diameter line? the darker one. Sorry to bother you so much. Thanks again.
 
No problemo. I've highlighted the line in the pic. It's just behind the radiator, about the centerline of the car, on the engine/trans. Oh, and you connect your pump-out line to the hose, not the metal tube it was on.

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Where the heck is the dipstick tube to fill up from the top? I can't find it for the life of me... can someone take a pic please?
 
Yours doesn't have only the years from 2007-2010 have the dipstick tube. I believe that someone else was able to locate a bolt or screw where you can fill the trans with fluid. I don't remember who though.
 
Yours doesn't have only the years from 2007-2010 have the dipstick tube. I believe that someone else was able to locate a bolt or screw where you can fill the trans with fluid. I don't remember who though.

I was under the impression my 2010 DOES NOT have a tranny dipstick......I am looking to replace the fluid soon. It has 120k miles and locating the dipstick would make the job a little easier.
 
Yours doesn't have only the years from 2007-2010 have the dipstick tube. I believe that someone else was able to locate a bolt or screw where you can fill the trans with fluid. I don't remember who though.

WTF? So how the heck am I supposed to check the level and know if I've underfilled or overfilled it??
 
What about the level and drain plug under the car ?

Just an update. I flushed the transmission fluid yesterday in my backyard. It was a piece of cake. Here are my notes:
1. Very easy. Easy access to the transmission cooler return hose. Disconnect from engine/trans (needle nose pliers), connect to 3/8" clear tubing (about 6' using a barbed hose connector) and run it into a clear empty bottle that can hold at least 4 quarts. Put the bottle where you can see it from the drivers seat. Start the car, and watch the dark fluid pump out and into your bottle. Once it starts to sputter (about 3 quarts), shut off engine and put in three quarts of new (from the top, dipstick tube, long funnel is good). During one or two of the pump outs, move the trans selector through the positions and hold it each for a few seconds. Keep this up (pump out and refill) until new fluid pumps out into your bottle. Top off remaining fluid. You're done.

2. The transmission pumps out about 3 quarts before it sputters.
3. Marking the sides of the bottle at the quart levels is helpful.
4. I recommend at least 15 quarts. I used 10 quarts and it still wasn't all new fluid coming out (mixed) by the time I ran out and had to stop (it was a Sunday and I couldn't get anymore). I am going to do this again soon and try to get the fluid a little clearer (though it looked much better once I had finished).
5. Very easy, took me only hour, hour and a half. When I do it again, 45 mins tops.
6. This method get nearly all of the old fluid out. It pumps out the torque converter, cooler, valve body etc.


Pootie Tang - I understand that you flushed the ATF using return connector line but what about the drain and level plug at the bottom of car ? Wasn't it necessary to drain from bottom first and then proceed with the steps that you mentioned ( using return connector line flush ) ?
I am kinda confused with the use of drain plug and level plug. It seems you are experienced guy with these works. Can you please help me ( and others too) to understand ? Thanks in advance.
 
Pootie Tang - I understand that you flushed the ATF using return connector line but what about the drain and level plug at the bottom of car ? Wasn't it necessary to drain from bottom first and then proceed with the steps that you mentioned ( using return connector line flush ) ?
I am kinda confused with the use of drain plug and level plug. It seems you are experienced guy with these works. Can you please help me ( and others too) to understand ? Thanks in advance.

While I do think doing the drain plug may get a little more old fluid, the internal pickup for the pump is already near the bottom of the pan so it should draw most of this fluid out already. Perhaps next time I will drain the fluid in the pan before the first flush. The three big items to flush are the torque converter, cooler, and valve body which can only be done thoroughly by pumping through them.
 
My 08 CX-9 has a dipstick while my 2011 CX-9 does not.

Here's how you fill the tranny on the models that do not have the dipstick. First, I drain the tranny case by removing the small star nut bolt (which is in the center of the level fill tube under the case, this is in the same place as the older models drain plugs), then use a large allen wrench or allen socket to remove the fluid level depth tube as well. This will drain the fluid that is in the tranny pan. If you don't remove the level depth tube you will not get the fluid out of the pan. This is just the first step.

- measure the amount you took out. It should be 3.3 quarts
- put the level depth tube and the star nut plug back into the bottom of the tranny pan
- remove the allen bolt on top of the tranny (its under the air box, just remove the air box to save yourself the trouble, removing it only take a few minutes, only three bolts and one large hose clamp is securing it)There are rubber grommets that compress into seats on the bottom of the air box so once the three bolts and the large hose clamp are off, it pulls right off, straight up.
- put the exact amount of fluid back into the tranny pan by refilling with 3.3quarts into the hole on the top of the tranny (where you removed the allen bolt)
- unhook the upper tranny fluid hose that goes into the driver side of the radiator, remove it from the end of the hard line that comes from the tranny
- connect some 3/8" x 12" long hose to the hard line that comes out of the pan as this is where the fluid will shoot out when you start the engine
- put the 12" long hose into a 1 gallon bottle that you can see the level go up as it pumps it out. I use an old empty oil bottle with the side level "clear indicator" on the side.
- turn on the engine and then immediately get down so you can see it filling the bottle. While it is running it will pump out the fluid. It will pump a little over 2qts before it start to sputter pulling air, but I don't let the level get this far down.
- turn off the engine when you get to around 1.75qts in the bottle, it will end up around 2qts by the time you get it shut off, not a huge deal if it goes further and starts sputtering air. Just make sure to measure the amount pumped out.
- pour the exact amount you pumped out back into the tranny from the fill port under the air box (use the dipstick fill tube if you have it, older models)
- during one of these stages shift the car into and out of all its gears, might be a good idea to have someone keep an eye on the level while you do this stage
- continue this process until you pump about 10 new quarts through the tranny, your fluid should look brand new now because it is, if not, pump a few more quarts through it

make sure you have put the same amount back into the case that you have taken out. Measure carefully if you are not sure.

Put the tranny upper fill plug back in and torque to spec.

Go drive the vehicle around the block and get it up to temperature. It needs to be between 34c and 47c. Use a auto thermometer or trigger (surface) thermometer if you need to for extra security.

Leave the engine running when you get back.

- Remove the star nut plug from bottom of tranny. Do not remove the fluid level tube.

A small amount of fluid may come out even if the fluid is below the top of the tube (inside the case) because it has splashed down into the tube. If the fluid flows out however, allow it to stop flowing. When it stops, this is your level you need to leave it at. If only a few drops comes out, then you need to put more fluid back in.
- leave engine on and remove the air box again. (you will get a service engine light, but it will shut off after reinstalling the mass air flow cable you will need to remove to get the air box off)
- remove the allen plug from top of tranny (under the air box)
- slowly add fluid until you see it begin to flow out of the leveling tube (that's under the tranny)(the star nut plug is centered in the fluid level tube BTW) This leveling tube goes the correct distance up into the tranny reservoir and allows you to set the level correctly)
- keep adding tranny fluid until you get fluid coming out of the leveling tube, when it stops flowing you have reached the correct level at under 47c.
- when it stops flowing out of the leveling tube put both the top fill allen bolt and the bottom star nut plug back in and torque to spec

Congrats, your transmission is filled with brand new fluid completely, and filled to the correct level.

Keep in mind you need to keep the temp under 47c or the fluid level will be too high and thus your level would be too low for regular operating temperature.

Same is true of the reverse if you were under 34c as well, except the level would be too high.
 
Thank you! A few questions:
- remove the allen bolt on top of the tranny
Thought I read somewhere that this is actually a T55 torx and not allen/hex?

Put the tranny upper fill plug back in and torque to spec.
Do you know the torque spec?

Go drive the vehicle around the block and get it up to temperature. It needs to be between 34c and 47c. Use a auto thermometer or trigger (surface) thermometer if you need to for extra security.
I'm going to try to use my bluetooth OBD2 dongle and the Torque Pro app for Android. Has anyone gotten the ATF tranny temp using Torque?
 
Thank you! A few questions:

Thought I read somewhere that this is actually a T55 torx and not allen/hex?


Do you know the torque spec?


I'm going to try to use my bluetooth OBD2 dongle and the Torque Pro app for Android. Has anyone gotten the ATF tranny temp using Torque?

You're right its a Torx bit. Was going by memory and my memory was off.

I'm not sure of the torque. I put some blue loc-tite on mine and just put it to about 10ft lbs, just enough that it would hold. It has a rubber gasket on it so it won't leak. I didn't want to damage the threads.
 
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