Amplifier install on 2016 CX-5 Bose with PAC AOEM-MAZ2 adapter

I mean, if you run it through the LOC (blue box), and it will work, it's just you'll have to turn the gain on your amp WAY up to compensate. That decreases sound quality as it greatly increases the possibility of hearing hiss in the system.

To prevent this, take the 5 minutes to add the RCA's.

Besides, almost no modern amp requires the use of an LOC to begin with. I can't think of a single one on the market that won't accept speaker level inputs.

To be clear, the Bose head unit does *not* output a low Z speaker level speaker signal, it only physically looks like it does. It's a high Z output (same as an RCA), but in the physical form of low Z speaker.
This is a better explanation that I was looking for, so in the end the PAC unit is being used as nothing more than a fancy wiring harness pass through, is there not a less expensive and simpler solution for just the harness?
 
Yes, you nailed it: it's a fancy T-harness. but One that I'm more than willing to pay for to keep from having to splice into the factory wiring harness.

To my knowledge, no one else makes anything like this for our cars. And if they do, I haven't found it.
 
Yes, you nailed it: it's a fancy T-harness. but One that I'm more than willing to pay for to keep from having to splice into the factory wiring harness.

To my knowledge, no one else makes anything like this for our cars. And if they do, I haven't found it.
I suppose the juice is worth the squeeze if you value your time in making your own T-harness…

So I’m looking at integrating something like a JL Audio Fix 86 to negate the BOSE head unit signal processing and potentially adding a Twk-88 down the road… I wonder if this is all worth it or if there are better options… Also looked at the AudioControl DM-810 but it’s unclear to me if that will do everything I need to restore the processed signal from the head unit and allow me to tune/time the system.

I can see myself replacing all the BOSE speakers in the future and bypassing the BOSE factory amp for two 4 channel 300 watt amps to run L/R 3.5” dash and D pillers (disconnect centre) and four 6.5” coaxials in front and rear doors with my JL Audio Slash 500/1 powering my two 12” JL Audio W0v3 subs.

So I wonder if doing this would it still be worth using the PAC harness from the TAU or just cut into the head unit wiring? I suppose it’s worth it if you ever intend to reinstall the factory equipment for resale of vehicle.
 
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If you grab the signal before the amp, it should be dead ruler flat with no processing whatsoever. It's the amp that applies all of the BS. This will negate the need for the Fix 86.

When I measured the output of the Bose HU in my Mazda3, this was exactly the case. I don't have the Bose in my CX-5, so I can't really say with 100% certainty this is still the case, but that's my suspicion.

Before you spend all of that money on the Fix, I would measure the HU output before the amp with an RTA and confirm this is still accurate information.

You can make your own RTA with the help of this video.
 
If you grab the signal before the amp, it should be dead ruler flat with no processing whatsoever. It's the amp that applies all of the BS. This will negate the need for the Fix 86.

When I measured the output of the Bose HU in my Mazda3, this was exactly the case. I don't have the Bose in my CX-5, so I can't really say with 100% certainty this is still the case, but that's my suspicion.

Before you spend all of that money on the Fix, I would measure the HU output before the amp with an RTA and confirm this is still accurate information.

You can make your own RTA with the help of this video.
Interesting video, well since I’m about to have a completely useless LOC (blue box) from the PAC I ordered perhaps that can be dismantled and turned into a makeshift RTA as suggested in the video… 🤔
 
Finally arrived in the mail, time to get the soldering iron out…

Gray gray/black (right front), white white/black (left front), purple purple/black (right rear), green green/black (left rear).

Solid color is positive (red or white on RCA), black stripe is negative (black RCA wire).

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All done, not really sure what to do with the blue power wire, guess could cut it at the terminal I just folded it and heat shrinked it for now.

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You may want to put a piece of heat shrink on the front RCA's so you can easily tell front from rear after the harness is buried in the dash. Or maybe mark with a sharpie or something.
 
You may want to put a piece of heat shrink on the front RCA's so you can easily tell front from rear after the harness is buried in the dash. Or maybe mark with a sharpie or something.
Excellent idea! They are labeled on the PAC RCAs that came with the blue box on the black tab in the Center but very difficult to see the lettering, will wrap with some colored electrical tape.
 
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