Amplifier install on 2016 CX-5 Bose with PAC AOEM-MAZ2 adapter

Im guessing this may not work with 2017 CX5 as the 2017 has a center speaker. It may work but minus the center speaker.

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Our Bose system has a 9" woofer in our front doors which was why I used the front outputs. I did try both the front output and the rear output and it didn't seem to make a difference.

For the input levels, if you look at the first very picture of this thread you can see the 4 four holes where a screw driver can be used to adjust the gain.

I get the choosing front or rear when I pull the PAC out today, there are two options of RCAs. I went with the front the first time b/c that is also where the remote wire is coming out from. Now, see below that I have no option to tune input gain. Maybe early models had it?
 
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Just pulled mine out and the holes are different. I wonder if mine is a faulty unit. Now screws to adjust gain, even opened it up to check
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I think the WR1-4 are the potentiometers to adjust the gain. I may be wrong though but it looks like it from the picture.

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Diagram seems simple. I think it gets signals from the speaker level, then resistor to attenuate the signal, isolation transformer, then potentiometer, then output as line level signal.

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Mine is the same as shown in the photos. And the WR1-4 can be turned to adjust.

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In the open pic you can tell it's Philips, I tried that with the top two and stripped the plastic. You can tell in the pic it's a weird arrow design. I'll try out a flat head but doubt it will work, these things don't look like they spin
 
The center hole is not a philips, it is an "arrow" just to indicate where the potentiometer center contact is. Yo need a flat screwdriver to turn it.
 
The center hole is not a philips, it is an "arrow" just to indicate where the potentiometer center contact is. Yo need a flat screwdriver to turn it.

Yeah I meant to say it is NOT Philips. I was told it was so I stripped it trying to turn it with the top casing on. I will try using a flat head next time I can get to it. At least by taking it out the other day I was able to clean up the install and make it so my PAC is easily accessible from the glove box and not pull the whole radio out again
 
Got this done yesterday. Sure enough you need a micro flat head to turn the inner part where the arrows are. Turned all 4 to the max using corner of a normal flat head then retuned my amp. Usually used the 40hz @ 0db Rockford track but went with -5db this time. Either way it's much louder now that the input gain is up even if it's just a bit. The bass is much more impactful. I'm full satisfied. No roll off either. Maybe bc it's straight from the back of headunit and not the other connection
 
Got this done yesterday. Sure enough you need a micro flat head to turn the inner part where the arrows are. Turned all 4 to the max using corner of a normal flat head then retuned my amp. Usually used the 40hz @ 0db Rockford track but went with -5db this time. Either way it's much louder now that the input gain is up even if it's just a bit. The bass is much more impactful. I'm full satisfied. No roll off either. Maybe bc it's straight from the back of headunit and not the other connection

Its unfortunate that the PAC model you got was a bit more difficult to tune. Im glad you were still able to adjust the gain and get it to work to your liking.
 
Does the non-Blose 2014-15 system have an amp in the same place as the Blose system? I wonder if the connectors will plug in.
 
Got this done yesterday. Sure enough you need a micro flat head to turn the inner part where the arrows are. Turned all 4 to the max using corner of a normal flat head then retuned my amp. Usually used the 40hz @ 0db Rockford track but went with -5db this time. Either way it's much louder now that the input gain is up even if it's just a bit. The bass is much more impactful. I'm full satisfied. No roll off either. Maybe bc it's straight from the back of headunit and not the other connection

I wouldn't max out the line converter, this could cause clipping of the signal if you set it too high (distortion).
 
I wouldn't max out the line converter, this could cause clipping of the signal if you set it too high (distortion).

No issues with it. I have the Rockford P1000X1BD. It has input and output clip indicators. When it was in my old car on a Pioneer headunit that have 4v preouts the gain was barely even a hair up but of course the lesser preout voltage its up kind of high so amp gets warm but have had no issues and I don't foresee any
 
About to install mine today. Been almost 2 years with out bump in the trunk [emoji51][emoji51][emoji51][emoji51][emoji51]

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Just finished my install, sounds great! Two things I noticed:
1) there is definitely a fairly high cutoff, that feels like it's around 50-60hz. Unfortunate but still gives that extra bump I craved.
2) Has anyone noticed with the PAC AOEM that the radio reception is poor in places you usually have good reception? In my driveway I usually get normal quality and down the road the HD signal kicks in. Now in my driveway I get static and a little bit of buzzing in the background...
 
Just finished my install, sounds great! Two things I noticed:
1) there is definitely a fairly high cutoff, that feels like it's around 50-60hz. Unfortunate but still gives that extra bump I craved.
2) Has anyone noticed with the PAC AOEM that the radio reception is poor in places you usually have good reception? In my driveway I usually get normal quality and down the road the HD signal kicks in. Now in my driveway I get static and a little bit of buzzing in the background...

Sir, where is the "fairly high cutoff, that feels like it's around 50-60hz" implemented? On the sub or the mid range or midwoofer?
 
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