Amplifier install on 2016 CX-5 Bose with PAC AOEM-MAZ2 adapter

When I was testing it, I used the tap pictured in this guide which is a low profile mini fuse tap http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123829094-Hardwiring-a-Valentine-1. However, it didn't seem to fit right although I didn't really try and force it, so I think I actually need one of these used in this guide which is just a regular mini fuse tap http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123851749-Hardwiring-a-Dashcam-(2016-sport) .

In terms of how it sounded, It sounded better, but it wasn't earth shattering or anything like that. I also got a good deal on the Kenwood so that helps, as I would have been disappointed if I had paid full price.

Hi Mack,
I'm probably going to tackle this tomorrow. I just have one question what slot should I tap into for my add a fuse?
Also anyone have suggestions for best ground(different parts of the car can add that whining noise).
 
As per other installs, fuse slot 11 (look at the owner's manual guide) for the R.Outlet1 @ 15A is open but should be switched power.

I received all my materials over the weekend, and tackled my Kenwood SW11 install yesterday afternoon, but after a smooth almost complete installation I am having trouble getting it powered and gave up in irritation in the evening. I suspect it may be a problematic ground, but just bought one of those cheap 12v circuit testers on my lunch to just make sure that my own slot 11 is indeed powered when the ignition is on.

If not the ground, it may be the generic add a circuit fuse taps I purchased from Amazon. I also have to revisit the proper way to use those taps, because there is a very specific way to not only place the fuses (separate for device and car), but also which side of the tap itself has the hot connected. For such a simple thing, it can be pretty complicated doing correctly and I was apparently one of the numerous people not fully versed in how to use the darn things. :( And the taps I purchased had no instructions.
 
Last edited:
Okay, mostly finished my Kenwood SW11 powered subwoofer install. Apologies for all you visual people like me, but I didn't take any worthwhile photos, and in fact, those I did were too dark or had flash flares. I had to close my garage door as I was getting interrupted too many times by curious/chatty neighbors. :(

--The single side (can't remember if it was loops or hooks) of Velcro adheres extremely well to the flooring "carpet" under the seats. I used two strips of 2"x4" Velcro Industrial and attached them to the underside of the Kenwood SW11 avoiding the area where the instructions indicate is the warmest spot. The unit fits in the area to the left side of the air vent (viewed from the rear), and as mentioned, I placed it sideways (left to right) so it would not show as much from the back seat. You can see a bit of the side from the driver's door view, but I guess it all comes down to personal preference which orientation works best.

--Even after trimming the power/remote turn on wires, there is just way too much extra wiring to contend with, especially due to the unit's remote control cord. Crutchfield's specs state that it is a 6 conductor RJ-25 connector at the end, so perhaps it can be successfully shortened with a replacement connector and a crimping tool for those phone-style jacks. The extra cabling for all is just lying around and on top of the unit for now. I bought some split loom, but I don't think that's going to be adequate.

--My power problem referenced above was indeed the ground. My cheap little 12v tester showed power coming from fuse slot 11 when the ignition was on. My original ground attempt was to one of the two bolts just behind and to the left of the fuse box, but even after paint removal and a bit of sanding, I apparently could not get a ground. I could not get any of the seat Torx bolts loosened, so I just used the same bolt shown in this photo from another thread:

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=206868&d=1396996859

--As others have, I used a fuse tap into slot 11, but found it rather loosely fitting so I used a bit of electrical tape to better hold it in place. FYI, the hot side of this fuse slot at least is the right side, so I inserted the tap with the fuses facing up. According to what I read online, you want the hot connection to be on the left blade of the typical fuse tap add-a-circuit. I used a crimp connector to connect the power and remote turn-on wires to the tap. I prefer Posi-Locks, but didn't have any in my tool box as I thought I had.

--I ran the power/ground wires down the driver's side and under the scuff plate, which removes easily. I pushed them under the loom that's already under the scuff trim. There's a bit of a cut out on the scuff plate on the seat side towards the back end where I ran the wires out to avoid too much pressure on them. The wires go under the seat rail once they come out of the trim piece. I intend to put a bit of black loom on that area to make it look a bit more professional, or I may eventually run them under the carpet and cut a hole for them under the seat.

--The PAC module installed exactly as shown in the earlier part of this thread. One thing I wasn't sure about was which direction increases the signal on the PAC module's adjustment screws--no mention of it in the instructions. Online I found references that other PAC modules should be turned clockwise, so that's what I did. I think the little arrow style screw heads were pointing to about 7 o'clock at the furthest most clockwise setting. Based on the sound output from the woofer, I think that's correct. :p I will likely need to go back and lash the module behind the glove box using cable ties if I encounter rattling.

--I ran a 3 meter dual RCA cable from the PAC down and behind the HVAC controls after removing the inner footwell trim pieces (they pop off and on easily from each side of the console. There's a relatively open space in the lower area and easy to get a wire through, although I used a wire fish tape to make it even easier. I then ran the RCA cable down the driver's side of the console, just pushing it under the bottom edge with my fingers, and then had it come out about midway down the console and again under the right seat rail to the subwoofer. I didn't have to loosen any of the center console screws to do it this way.

--I wanted to install the subwoofer wired control in my center console storage area, so I popped off the back external console trim piece (again, no screws need to be removed) and put an old shirt under the back outer edge of the inner lining for protection, as there is a wire and connector in that same area. I then used a drill bit of sufficient size to allow the RJ connector through and drilled a hole immediately to the left of the right inner support rib inside the storage bin. Whatever drill bit I used plus the type of plastic resulted in a completely smooth hole, so I didn't even have to sand. The remote wire was run down through that hole and then to the left side of the console and out the same midpoint area as the RCA cable. I left some extra length inside the console to allow the remote to be pulled out once removed from the mounting Velcro. The rubber mat insert inside the console does a good job of holding the remote cable in place when mounted.

Don't panic as I briefly did during your system test when everything is hooked up but before everything is back together when your system sounds terrible--oh, that's right, disconnecting that TAU harness removes power to the HU, so you just have to dial back in your preferred audio settings. :p

I'm happy with the sound so far. It fills in some deeper bass just as I wanted, beyond the front door mid-bass speakers. On electronic music with a strong bass track, it really shines to me. If you turn up the subwoofer volume too much on really bass-heavy dance remix tracks, while it doesn't distort, it does sound muddy. I'm going to have to futz with the frequency and volume settings when I have more time and find a happy medium that works for most of my music and to limit my tendency to constantly fiddle with such things. ;) I found I've already increased my usual treble settings on the HU up one notch, and my bass setting down one. I also noted that the Centerpoint setting does not affect the subwoofer--when you adjust that option off and on, the speaker sound cuts out briefly, but the subwoofer remains on with no apparent change, so that processing must indeed occur in the Bose amp. And of course, since the sub is connected to the front outputs of the PAC, the HU F/R fader will impact the subwoofer output if faded too far to the back. Mine has been set to I think two notches towards the rear, and that continues so far to be good for the subwoofer as well.
 
Last edited:
I bought a PAC AOEM-MAZ2 adapter from amazon per this thread in the hopes I could hookup a Rockford Fosgate P300-10 Punch Powered Loaded 10-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure to my 2016 CX-5 GT Sport without cutting/splicing any original manufacturer wires. I went to the glove box to hookup the adapter....and the connectors were incorrect. I looked at the pics provided in this thread and i noticed I'm missing the light brown wiring connector. My PAC adapter was also shipped without original packaging or any instructions. It was just thrown into a packing sleeve. Since i bought from amazon the return will be easy.....However, I don't want to take another chance on getting a used\incomplete item from Amazon. Where did you guys buy your PAC from?
Pic of what I was sent: 20160622_235529.jpg
Upon closer look of the wiring harness i was sent, it looks like the PAC AOEM-FRD24 Add-On Amplifier Interface with 24-Pin Connector for 2005-Up Ford Vehicles was sent to me rather than the PAC AOEM-MAZ2 adapter I ordered.
 
Last edited:
Mine came in original packaging and has 1 brown plug and 1 white plug.

Was yours sold and shipped from Amazon. Mine was.
 
fyi, I assumed this would work, considering a 2015 3 and a 2016 CX-5 has the same Bose wiring, but the 2015 CX-5 w/ Bose doesn't seem to have that white wire harness.

Left my 2015, right dnut999:
0shQB1B.png


But I am confused.. jrod9707, it worked on your 2014?
 
Last edited:
No I have not installed it yet. Oh crap if this isn't going to work on my '14 I'm going to be pissed.

Any other options?

I'll take a look tonight and take a few pictures.
 
The Bose amp is in the glove box on a '14

My harnesses are black, green, black. Going vertically from bottom to top.

So does that mean this harness won't work?
 

Attachments

  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    514.9 KB · Views: 343
  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    685.6 KB · Views: 359
Last edited:
In the 2016 at least with Bose, there's a TAU (tuner/amplifier unit) in that position behind the glove box and into which the PAC interface plugs. The actual Bose amp, however, is located under the front passenger seat.

From what I can see in the 2014 service info (see attached), looks like indeed the Bose amp unit is behind the glove box instead. I don't see a separate TAU unit for the 2014, so maybe it is built into the headunit instead and that connector if identical is located on the back of the HU itself...??

If not, then this PAC module would unfortunately not be compatible....(FYI the info for the 2015 appears identical to the 2014 in terms of the entertainment system layout)

View attachment 2014 CX-5 Entertainment System Parts Location.pdf
 
Last edited:
Strange question time: has anyone else with a 2016 who has installed the PAC interface (and/or fuse tap and Kenwood subwoofer) noticed any different behavior from their vehicles in terms of turning off the ignition?

Unsure if truly related, but it appears it now takes a bit longer (perhaps two seconds-ish) to fully shut off after I hit the ignition button and the courtesy lights to come on.

It became obvious to me as I have a set pattern of actions upon arrival at work. Before, the car was typically fully off/courtesy lights on by the time I threw open the driver's door, and now I noticed that the ignition switch is still lit and the courtesy lights don't come on as quickly. I also a couple of times even got a short warning beep upon opening the door as if the car was still running.

I wouldn't think anything with the ignition would run through the TAU, correct? I know you can set how long the courtesy lights remain on via the HU, of course. Maybe that's the only real difference here and I just never noticed the ignition button still being lit.
 
wasn't there just a recent TSB about problems with the ignition button giving people fits and not turning off when pressed. I thought someone recently posted a Cars.com article about it.
 
Thank you, Ride92.

I had thought I saw something about such a TSB when I renewed my one day Mazda Service info subscription recently, but for some reason dismissed it as not being applicable. Let me try to find it again elsewhere to confirm what years/build dates it involves.
 
JP3G have you had a chance to dig into this at all? I haven't even had a chance as every time I'm about to another project comes up.
 
Jrod...Like RLCarrington had stated earlier, the TAU is probably built into the head unit for the 2014 CX-5. Heres a picture of a CX-5 head unit that I found on Ebay.
292sc1w.jpg
 
Last edited:
Thanks For helping me out with that Dnut!!!
So I assume that I can use that Mazda Bose PAC unit, correct?
 
The connector on the back left of the HU photo Dnut posted looks similar to what I recall, but unless you can find confirmation elsewhere on here or the general Internet, you'd going to have to do a test....and of course getting to that connector is going to be more of a commitment as compared to where the TAU is located in the 2016....

I guess you could also try to locate the 2014 Bose wiring diagrams and compare the connector info for that part, too...at least that is less work to start--it might be immediately obvious they aren't the same and then that saves you the disassembly. I know that there are already posts in here with the 2016 wiring/connectors, as I contributed to those myself. :)
 
Back